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Alignment adjusters seized.

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Old 04-15-2010 | 07:57 PM
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burglar's Avatar
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Alignment adjusters seized.

Went for my autocross alignment today and it was an epic fail. My adjustment bolts are mostly seized. I need to take a couple of days and disassemble everything, clean the corrosion off, anti-seize, and reassemble so we can try again.

Anyone have a picture of how the eccentric adjusters look out? Or a nice little diagram of how the bolts work? I can't picture it in my head so I can see how to disassemble it.

Thanks.
Old 04-16-2010 | 01:05 AM
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Lots of luck....spray a lot of penetrating oil between the bolt and the washer on the bushing and hope for the best...

I had to cut one side off...it's not a fun job
Old 04-16-2010 | 11:12 AM
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Great, so good old fashioned muscle, sweat, and foul language are my only weapons? That sucks.
Old 04-16-2010 | 01:35 PM
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I'd try a big assed impact gun and a lot of penetrating oil....
Old 04-16-2010 | 03:36 PM
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The adjustment bolts are not really unusual fasteners, except that it has a slot cut into it and one of the eccentric washers is keyed into that slot so when you turn the bolt, it spins the washer. The washer then rubs up against two bumps stamped into the subframe to push the bolt back and forth in a slot. Here's a shot of one:



Anyway, that's probably not your problem. The problem is that the bolt is likely corroded to the inner metal of the bushing in the control arm. I'm actually having the same problem right now on my driver's side front lower shock mount, and it really sucks. From what I've read, you really won't be able to get the bolt out and you'll have to drill/cut it out and replace it. An impact wrench won't help because the bushing will damp out the impact, taking away any effect it's supposed to have. After work, I'm going to go at mine with a C-clamp to see if I can press it out, but I'll likely end up cutting the bolt and replacing it.

Good luck and I hope to see you Sunday so we can gripe about our crappy fasteners!
Old 04-16-2010 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks Kenneth, that's exactly what I needed.

See you Sunday, where I will have zero front camber (on the DS, literally, 0.5° on the PS) and toe in all around.
Old 04-16-2010 | 09:00 PM
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You might find that it is the washer that is bonded to the face of the bushing...I've had mine apart numerous times and that is the smallest diameter..the steel center of the bushing hasn't been the problem on any of the cars I have fixed so far. The tolerances in that washer hole are very tight....
Old 04-17-2010 | 09:06 PM
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Ok I've been fighting with this for TWO YEARS on my car. Every once in a while I'll take it apart and beat the hell out of everything, heat it with the propane torch, and spray penetrating oil on it for days (literally twice a day for a week) and I can NOT get those camber adjusters out of the car. I went down to the local shop and they put their air hammer on it and even that wouldn't push it out. What gives??!! Right now it's looking like I have to cut the sub frame apart to get the arms off so I can press out the bushings and adjusters as a unit. Does ANYONE have a trick for this??? I don't wanna have to butcher my sub frame...
Old 04-17-2010 | 11:49 PM
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Cut the bolt/bushing washer off.....it's a PIA..but it works...

You can replace that bushing......plus the bolts are cheap
Old 04-18-2010 | 10:49 AM
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pick up some stuff called CLP or Brake free, you should be able to find it at Academy Sports in the gun cleaning section. This stuff works wonders on getting rusted/stubborn bolts unstuck. We used it locally to remove rusted exhaust bolts.
Old 04-19-2010 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Grungepup
pick up some stuff called CLP or Brake free, you should be able to find it at Academy Sports in the gun cleaning section. This stuff works wonders on getting rusted/stubborn bolts unstuck. We used it locally to remove rusted exhaust bolts.
I'll see if I can find it! I'd love some camber to help my tires last the whole season...
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