I don't wan to use the jack that came with the RX8 as it is a bit cheap and a pain in the butt. I want to use a hydraulic jack instead but I think I may damage the metal rib going along the bottom of the car. The RX8 jack kinda hugs this metal rib so it doesn't slip and uses the frame in front and behind the rib as the pressure points. But a hydraulic jack seems like it would damange this rib because the standard metal cup on the jack is to shollow. In essence you would be lifting the car from putting preasure on the rib instead of the frame and I geuss you are bound to bend or break the rib. I have some pictures attached so you can see what I'm talking about.

Kindly share your thoughts and/or experience.

 

i've used both kinds of jacks on the 8. but for the hydraulic jack all you need to do is find a different spot to use it. don't use it on the rib. i'd tell you where to put the jack but i forgot myself, and i can't explain it.

 

Don't try to lift the car by using a "normal" hydralic jack at the factory lift point, you will bend over that ridge. There is a lift point in the middle of the car that you should use instead, get your head next to the ground and look right near the middle, you'll see a section with a rectangular projection where you should lift. If you aren't sure of the exact place try reading this thread - Best way to jack the car? .

I'd also add that I ordered that eastwoods adapter mentioned in that thread and I'm going to have to have it modified to work with the RX-8. It's slightly too long to fit into the space on the rail and would crush some of the plastic if used as is. It's very sturdy so having someone cut 1/2" or so off each end shouldn't weaken it noticably.

 

Excellent reference to a prior post Rez.

 

For hydraulic jack lift points, the shop manual points to the differential case in the back, and the center of the crossmember (between the fnt wheels) as the places to use. I got a Sears hydraulic jack, but wanted to actually get all four wheels off the ground for extended work time and stability.

I searched far and wide on the board, including the link above, but found no good answer to using our std rail lift points without potentially damaging something. I was unsure about using just 'any other place' under there to lift on. Instead I came up with some custom cushions for a std floor jack for the 8 from rubber spring stiffeners ($7 for 4pk) by cutting them in two with a radial saw. The little grove in the rubber fits on the rail nicely with the tough rubber cushioning the whole affair well. Still standing three days later

 

I have used my hydraulic floor jack on the metal rib to lift one corner of the car at a time, and have had no problems. I believe several other people have also swapped tires by lifting one corner at a time with a hydraulic jack on the metal rib, and no problems have been reported. I'll doube-check the thread on "best way to jack the car" just to make sure.

I don't like the idea of using the differential case as a lifting point--that puts a huge upward static preload on the differential mounts, which are normally preloaded downward by the weight of the differential. It's probably okay if the manual recommends using the differential as a lifting point, but I'd prefer to use a rigid lifting point instead of straining the rubber mounts.

 

My 2nd gen RX-7 had this same problem when using a hydraulic jack. But the solution was very simple. I just used a short piece of 2x4 with a notch cut down one side. Put the flat side against the jack and the notched side over the rib (lifting point) and jack it up.

 

I use a hydraulic jack and jackstands all the time. You cant use the regular factory jack points.. it's the same with any car actually.

 

L8r, I thought of the same thing but was a bit concerned if the 2 x 4 ever split in 2 under load. I think I am going to invent something snazzy here!

Buy two hockey pucks (very hard rubber), cut a groove down the middle of one. Screw and glue them togther. Tim the bottom puck to sit fluch on the mount.

I think it is much stronger than a 2 x 4 and should be gentle enough when propping up the car.


I'll post a picture when I'm done.

 

Could you clarify this statement? Are you saying that you don't think you should use the metal ribs (body rails) as lifting points? If so, why not? Others, including myself, have used hydraulic jacks to lift at these points (one corner up at a time) with no problems.

EDIT: After looking around some more, it seems that you're right about the jack points. My understanding now is that you shouldn't use a hydraulic floor jack to LIFT on the metal rib of the frame, but it is okay to position jack stands in these locations. The hydraulic jack should be used to lift the entire front or rear of the vehicle using the locations specified in the manual, and then lower onto jack stands positioned under the metal ribs. The trouble with this approach is getting the floor jack in the correct position under the car--it may require driving onto some plywood or something to get some extra clearance.

However, since I (along with others) have not had any problems with using the floor jack to lift on the ribs of the body, it seems like the approach described above is merely the "safe" way to do it. I'd rather be safe than sorry, so I'll try doing it the correct way next time. This will require me to buy another set of wheel chocks, however, and maybe some plywood.

 

the place where i went with a car lift uses a small piece of wood on the lift to make sure the rib doesnt bend...

 

Nice old post. Wonder how many people still actually contribute AS WELL AS benefit from this site...

I jacked mine up using a standard V-jack on one side and a 2-Ton Trolly Jack on the other, had a buddy help me raise both sides of the car at a steady and equal pace.

I had mine on the stands without any cushioning for about 3 hours, I didn't make the extra effort today - but I plan to follow this advice in the future and fabricate a cushion to go between the stands and the skinny metal rib.

 

Old but useful thread. Searched this before.

i had mine on a scissor lift when doing my coilovers. it was on there over night on the oe jacking points and it was fine.



you can just about see here.

 

You don't have to get that fancy with it. One hockey puck with a groove cut into it works great. Been using mine for many years without any issues.

 

it would be a real shame if that little rail underneath the car gets scratched or bent up a bit

I usually just straighten mine out every other year or so, my RX8 has set on jackstands for several months (usually every winter between race seasons getting maintenance and mod work), talk about making mountains out of grains of sand ...