Ha ha... that's what I thought when I saw that.

Someone please explain how the AF version is suppose to stop horrizontal movement and twisting.

Looks good for verticle and back and forth.

RP, Just open up excel and start a database. Fill in those Strut bars that work from feedback from customers. You might want two or three before you recomnd the use of your product fot that application.

 

You can see the master cylinder move on most cars (almost alarmingly on some vehicles) just from the force of bleeding the brakes, which is nothing like braking for Turn 1 at Willow. Because there's a motion ratio in the pedal, this movement is amplified 3 to 4 times at your foot. Makes the system feel mushier. Bracing the m/c to a more rigid part of the car than the firewall is intended to eliminate some of this mushiness.

This has nothing at all to do with any part of the clutch system.

Unfortunately, we're kind of locked into this situation nowadays by pedestrian impact standards. Because cars must absorb the impact of a pedestrian's skull smacking into the cowl as gently as possible, firewalls cannot be made as rigid as we would like them to be from a vehicle dynamics standpoint.

FWIW, pedestrian impact standards are driven much more by European and Asian regulations. In North America, nobody walks, so it's not such a problem.

 

looks like another great product from RP.

 

yea,

i hope it sucks as much as my short shifter..

wait,
i have a ms bar with the brake stopper.. i feel exploited....

great job richard.. keep up the good work, and integrity..

beers

 

i was only speculating that the clutch was using the same pivot point as the brake. Lots of cars do it that way. I guess the rx8 doesn't, so shoot me.
I'm not going out there and crawl under the dash to look.

It will be up on the website as soon as we get them tumbled and anodized. There are a couple of beta testers we'd like to hear from also before shipping them.

When they are sitting on the bench I'll be yelling about it.

 

I want a blue one like the Racing Beat MAF tube.

 

I am confused if this fits RHD cars.

 

Not at the moment. We are going to have Hymee look at a mirror image plan to see if that will work. Other then that we will see if there is another design we can come up with for RHD.

Other then that I can say the thing works. I was a little unsure of any effect it might make but after trying some hard braking you really feel it. When I put it on my car I sort of forgot about it after driving out the driveway. In the parking lot I didn't notice it but all of a sudden I remembered (old age) to try hard braking.
It gets real sold when you use it. There are two others out there and we will see what they say. They both drive harder the me.

 

Interesting approach tapping onto the studs for the shock.

Is there a big benefit with the Autoexe bracing the pedal side of the master cylinder?

 

Thanks for that. I will be the 1st to buy (Or try Hymee if you are looking) as I desperately need one on the track.

Cheers

Andrew

 

I live by: Flat out to the turn. When you see God, BRAKE.

This should help me get closer to God.

 

I love it!

 

I want one. now. RP, you got a pm

 

Richard!! Yes!!!

Folks if you've ever looked under your hood and watched as someone pumps the brakes it's looks like the brake mastercylinder is alive! It moves and flexs all over the place. This makes for a mushier brake pedal and a more inconsistent one (how repeatable do you think all that movement is?)

This is along the lines of getting Stainless Steel braided brakelines. It will improve brake pedal feel and consistency. This will most likely improve your ability to modulate your braking and brake control.

I know when I first felt Kris' car with the SS brakelines I couldn't wait to get mine installed.

Thanks Richard for developing this part. I can't wait to get mine.

 

There are only two here that didn't go to the anodizer so if you want one bare you can have it. The production nuts are nicer looking then the pictures. They have a nice dome on them instead of the rough flat nachine work on the prototype.

 

question: how exactly is this connecting to the strut brace? I'm assuming aftermarket struts won't make a difference?

 

It doesn't. It uses two of the three shock studs. It goes through the stock brace in one spot, look closely at the pics. Other strut bars might need different clearance work, some might not work at all.

 

A couple more pics, please! ( from different angles, if it's possible). So when it is going to be put up for sale? I think since it's only 70 bucks, I'm going to buy and try it..... :D It would be cool, if i could get a black one!

 

Here are a few. It only takes about 1/2 to install.
This is an OE strut brace - its just been stripped and clear-coated.

 

Stealing an image from Vivid, who stole there image from Greddy... It doesnt look as if this will work with the Greddy Strut bar.

 

looks like a nice piece....so the stock stb needs to have the base cut correct?

 

ah..I forgot about needing to cut a hole. That might be a problem for me.

 

Jeff, why did you cut the strut brace to clear the brace???
I just drilled the 1 3/8 hole and hammer fit the rest. I was going to make clearence but it was just so easy to tap the strut flange I figured this would be the best way for most people.

 

I wanted clean lines, I didn't want to bash the clearcoat and I drilled the main hole even smaller for those same reasons.
Took no time at all with the Dremel and drill press.

 

OMG forbid we smash the clearcoat, just cut the metal away.