camber kit
10-23-2009, 02:40 PM
#26
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12-12-2009, 12:59 PM
#27
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i am looking for a camber kit as well. i currently have 18x10 rear with 265/40/18 tires i am at full neg camber in the rear with the stock camber arms. does that seem right or do u think i can get more neg camber from the rear? if not i will be looking to get a camber kit so i can go a little more neg. another other ideas are welcomed. but i will not swap my rims love them too much and they are discontinued to try to get 2 18x9
12-12-2009, 01:27 PM
#29
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by over drop do you mean lower the car more? i am running coilovers. i believe i am more then -1.5 but still rub. should i just lower the car more? maybe switch to 35 series tires? i just dont really like running rubberband tires lol. but also hate not being able to carry people in the back because i rub. what do you reccomend? also thanks for the help and info. much appreciated
12-12-2009, 01:31 PM
#30
As you drop the car the camber will increase.....
If you have rubbing with the -2.0 you should be able to get with the stock adjusters......you have tire and or wheel offset problems...or you need to move the fenders out of the way
the 40 series 265's are taller than stock.....so that is a problem right off the bat...most running 265/275 series tires use the 35 series profile that is much closer to stock
What are your wheel offsets......???
If you have rubbing with the -2.0 you should be able to get with the stock adjusters......you have tire and or wheel offset problems...or you need to move the fenders out of the way
the 40 series 265's are taller than stock.....so that is a problem right off the bat...most running 265/275 series tires use the 35 series profile that is much closer to stock
What are your wheel offsets......???
12-12-2009, 01:32 PM
#31
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i work in a shop and had my tech do the alignment and give me max neg camber. but still rub. maybe i need lower more? or go to a not so tall tire?
12-12-2009, 01:37 PM
#32
Traditional " camber kits" are usually adjustable strut mounts for Macpherson strut type vehicles...think Subaru's and such
They work by changing the mounting point of the top of the strut...changing the camber
We have A-arm front and multilink rear suspension...the shock mounting point will do nothing to the alignment
You have to change the a-arm and link lengths to alter the alignment on our cars.......different thing
There really is quite a bit of adjustment on the stock adjusters....watch though..the adjusters tend to seize up and then you can't get much adjustment
The Megan Racing unit will work...but I question if more rear camber is your problem....more likely a symptom of the tire/wheel problem
They work by changing the mounting point of the top of the strut...changing the camber
We have A-arm front and multilink rear suspension...the shock mounting point will do nothing to the alignment
You have to change the a-arm and link lengths to alter the alignment on our cars.......different thing
There really is quite a bit of adjustment on the stock adjusters....watch though..the adjusters tend to seize up and then you can't get much adjustment
The Megan Racing unit will work...but I question if more rear camber is your problem....more likely a symptom of the tire/wheel problem
Last edited by dannobre; 12-12-2009 at 01:41 PM.
12-12-2009, 01:46 PM
#33
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i work at a shop and had my tech do the alignment and made him vive me max neg camber. he says its maxed. i think it is a offet problem but am not sure what the offsets are. i can look when i get home. as i am at work now. the rims are motegi touge 18x9 front and 18x10 rear. they are also the exact same rim as the american racing rebel. maybe i will try the 35 series when mine wear down some more.
12-12-2009, 01:50 PM
#34
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goctcha. ill check to see if they maybe seized. ill also try to lower more and see if that may work. im sure the offset is the problem. but i really love the rims and dont want to get something else. and if i ever get rid of the car i will probably keep them and put them on another car.
12-15-2009, 12:21 AM
#37
What the hell is going on in this thread?
Your wheel size has nothing to do with your alignment.
Changing your camber because you have the wrong wheel offset is stupid.
There are no "camber kits" for A-arm independent suspensions. Changing the offset of the upper spring perch will do nothing to the alignment.
JIC does make an adjustable lower link for the rear. I think they are about $600 each (you need two).
If you have under 1° in the rear and you are really blasting through the rear tires, you are either never cornering or you have some other element of your alignment out-of-whack. Most of us that push the vehicle are running a bit over 1° in the rear and most of the tire goes away, not just the inside.
If you take your car to a national chain-store (like NTB or whatever) for an alignment, you will get **** at best.
That said, there is a correct camber number for your vehicle, based on ride height. You can deviate as needed to setup your vehicle for proper handling, but selecting a camber value arbitrarily or based on looks is just dumb.
You will pick up about .5° of negative camber in the rear for each inch you drop the vehicle, BTW.
Your wheel size has nothing to do with your alignment.
Changing your camber because you have the wrong wheel offset is stupid.
There are no "camber kits" for A-arm independent suspensions. Changing the offset of the upper spring perch will do nothing to the alignment.
JIC does make an adjustable lower link for the rear. I think they are about $600 each (you need two).
If you have under 1° in the rear and you are really blasting through the rear tires, you are either never cornering or you have some other element of your alignment out-of-whack. Most of us that push the vehicle are running a bit over 1° in the rear and most of the tire goes away, not just the inside.
If you take your car to a national chain-store (like NTB or whatever) for an alignment, you will get **** at best.
That said, there is a correct camber number for your vehicle, based on ride height. You can deviate as needed to setup your vehicle for proper handling, but selecting a camber value arbitrarily or based on looks is just dumb.
You will pick up about .5° of negative camber in the rear for each inch you drop the vehicle, BTW.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 12-15-2009 at 12:43 AM.
What's the point? They are totally non functional...
12-15-2009, 10:18 PM
#44
I can convert the OE mounts for you. Just take hole saws and Swiss cheese the rear mounts, then wrap the exterior in duct tape to seal out dirt & moisture. It will end up around the same weight as aluminum for much less $$$$.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-15-2009 at 10:20 PM.
03-10-2011, 11:15 PM
#49
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Camber adjustment
I recently lowered my 04 two inches in the front, and obviously, it now has negative camber which is wearing the tire on the inside. I've done some searching on here as well as the internet, but could not find out how to make it 0 degrees againg. Can anyone show me the camber adjustment bolt? It would save me a few buck if I could just straighten the wheel myself.
Thanks!
Thanks!
