Hi all,

I want to get centercaps for my RPF1s...but they're super expensive.

I found them at Good-Win-Racing here: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../60-1080c.html
I know Brian at Good-Win-Racing is trustworthy...I bought my wheels from him.

I also found them at DaliRacing here: http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog...cfm?focus=1894
They are cheaper through DaliRacing, but has as anyone heard of them? can vouch for them? Anyone get scammed by them? I don't really trust these online sites without asking first.

Thanks,
Fil

 

The $ dif is minimal, buy from the one that has done you right w/good service. BTW I have those caps and let me tell you, the metal part looks like the cheapest piece of **** you could get away with. The logo part is cool, nice, looking finished piece.

On the car, they do the job, cover the hole. Rip-off city, go figure Enkie otherwise doesn't make enough money I guess.

 

The deal from Dali racing looks pretty awesome. Hope they're legit, but on a side note, do the mazda rotary center caps fit on the Enkei RP-F1 wheels? (the rotary centercaps)

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=267&page=5

 

i dont think so

 

At least they aren't the plastic crap that most wheels come with They are stainless...and look the same 3 years after I put them on the car. They are stupidly expensive though...for that price they should be gold plated or something

 

Do you use the hubcentric plastic rings? Any issues using them in conjunction with the center caps?

 

Dali Racing is very legit

the hubcentric ring and the centercaps each have their own mating bore, no issue

 

Thanks Team!

 

I've never used hubcentric rings...they are only a crutch to align the wheels when you put them on...they don't do anything once the wheel is mounted and torqued on. If you are careful to use the proper torquing sequence when you put the wheels on...they will go on true...and you don;t need the rings

 

True, but I have Tripoint work on my car sometimes and as much as they are an excellent shop (capable of producing the Mazda6's that run in the Speed World Challenge) I'd still rather keep that small "crutch" in case they get bored working on my car and slip up. If I was the only one taking a wrench to those wheels the plastic crap would be gone no doubt.

 

You ever notice they use the word "****" all over their site...even on the shopping cart page?

 

If we could keep the idiots with impact tools away from our cars...we would have a lot less problems

I tell anyone working on my wheels that if they come anywhere near it with an impact gun I am GONE...so far it has worked great. it also helps that I stay and supervise

 

I love this **** - mine look new also under all that road grime that is...

 

relying on the wheel lugnut seats to center the wheel is a mistake IMO

I prefer the metal rings over the plastic out of **** principle, but both have worked fine for me

 

For those of you who have these centercaps, do you have to take the wheels off to insret / remove them? Are they easy to steal?

 

I'll give you a deal on the RPF1 centercaps.

We have them in stock.

Rishie

 

They just pop on and off. I think you might still need to take the wheel off to remove them unless you have some sticky *** hands and superman grip.

Rishie

 

If the lug nut seats don't center the wheel properly...the dumb *** plastic rings would break....... So I guess it's metal.......or nothing!

 

Dali's been serving the NSX community a looooong time. As Team said, very legit. What's wrong with looking at your rusty nuts?

 

The hubcentric rings are not to so much center the wheel (although it does a great job), but to transfer the radial load of the wheel pressing up from the road on the wheel hub rather than on the wheel studs... the hub being a much stronger element with less chance (no chance) of breaking or bending under severe suspension jolting.

You know when they talk about unsprung weight and how the 50 lb wheel/tire has to move 6in up in a fraction of a sec at 50 or 90mph when going thru the pothole and how that translates into 600 or 900 lbs of force ... something like that ...it's too early to do the numbers right

As far as metal vs the dumb *** plastic, they seem to work equally well (once they are sandwiched in there nothing is going to get to them to break), but the d.a.p. ones stick on the hub and when you try to tale them off, you need a tool which then typically chips or breaks the ring unless great care is used, even then... I do this regularly with my DD Enkeis that need the rings and my track HotWheels that don't!