GReddy strut tower bar installed
#1
GReddy strut tower bar installed
I just got the front and rear strut bars from greddy here are some pics i no i no the engine is dirty and there is 16 inchs of snow on the ground. and i have one more set if someone wants them send me a pm i got them for 190.00 each not to bad i thought
Last edited by youngpit; 01-24-2005 at 08:32 PM.
#6
no pics of the back bar yet to much snow out side way to cold and not to sure how to install the rear as i cant read the dir. the cover fits back on shows where to cut a small part out but it fit just fine. i got it from trust. when the turbo goes on as soon as the mgt info comes so i can do my taxes the cover will be replaced with the greddy cover neway
#11
Originally Posted by galleychief
Forgive me in advance. . .
What is the benefit of replacing the stock bar with your new one?
Is it a "look" or is there some significant enhancement as a result?
Thanks,
Dave
What is the benefit of replacing the stock bar with your new one?
Is it a "look" or is there some significant enhancement as a result?
Thanks,
Dave
#12
Originally Posted by XeRo
The stock bar does next to nothing...it is more of an aesthetic piece...it's a flimsy piece of aluminum...anything is better than the stock bar...
#13
I think people buy new bars for asthetics. If all they cared about was stiffness they would probably take a better look at the lower underbraces which should make a much bigger difference in stiffness.
#14
Actually I'd say that the stock bar is the better design from a stiffness standpoint.
A lot of strutbars (including that Greddy) have joints, which reduces the stiffness of any strut. I'd consider this a design flaw. Just imagine a baseball bat with a joint, would you buy it or do you think you could hit any harder?
A lot of strutbars (including that Greddy) have joints, which reduces the stiffness of any strut. I'd consider this a design flaw. Just imagine a baseball bat with a joint, would you buy it or do you think you could hit any harder?
#15
no vedndor has them yet i went to jap to get them. not litlerly but i sent for them. ya engine is dirty i no. covers were my paint exp. until carbon fiber comes out or greddy makes something.
#16
Show us the rear bar please!! I really wonder how it looks... a friend told me it doesn't use up trunk space. Photos please...
Front looks nice but it doesn't have the brake cylinder support the MS has...
Front looks nice but it doesn't have the brake cylinder support the MS has...
#18
I would like to buy the rear bar.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../rearstrut.jpg
from https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=greedy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../rearstrut.jpg
from https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=greedy
#19
Originally Posted by youngpit
covers were my paint exp. until carbon fiber comes out or greddy makes something.
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Last edited by NoTears316; 04-05-2005 at 09:16 AM.
#21
Originally Posted by RotorManiac
Notears316 where can I get cf covers like yours?
thanks
thanks
www.hookupshop.com
#23
Originally Posted by globi
Actually I'd say that the stock bar is the better design from a stiffness standpoint.
A lot of strutbars (including that Greddy) have joints, which reduces the stiffness of any strut. I'd consider this a design flaw. Just imagine a baseball bat with a joint, would you buy it or do you think you could hit any harder?
A lot of strutbars (including that Greddy) have joints, which reduces the stiffness of any strut. I'd consider this a design flaw. Just imagine a baseball bat with a joint, would you buy it or do you think you could hit any harder?
It is a little technical but you'll get the picture. Bottom line, unless the bar bends thereby shortening its length from compression loads, or breaks from the pulling load (highly unlikely), the bar will work.
"What a strut bar does is tie the two strut towers together so that they share the load applied at the outer tower. This gives you twice as much [chassis] material to deal with the same cornering force and helps reduce fatigue stress in this [the strut tower] area. "
#24
Originally Posted by Spin9k
You and XeRo are both not understanding how a strut bar is loaded. Try reading this http://www.e30m3performance.com/myt..._bar_theory.htm
My point is: Don't make a joint where it's not required. The strut bar does not move like a suspension arm. The joint just adds complexity, weight and reduces stiffness. A good design is always as simple as possible.
#25
Originally Posted by globi
So what's your point? I just said that a joint will reduce the stiffness of the strut bar, I didn't say it won't work.
My point is: Don't make a joint where it's not required. The strut bar does not move like a suspension arm. The joint just adds complexity, weight and reduces stiffness. A good design is always as simple as possible.
My point is: Don't make a joint where it's not required. The strut bar does not move like a suspension arm. The joint just adds complexity, weight and reduces stiffness. A good design is always as simple as possible.
Originally Posted by globi
Actually I'd say that the stock bar is the better design from a stiffness standpoint. A lot of strutbars (including that Greddy) have joints, which reduces the stiffness of any strut. I'd consider this a design flaw. Just imagine a baseball bat with a joint, would you buy it or do you think you could hit any harder?
**That's the point of this discussion** not to flame you!
Most of understanding problem is semantics and understanding the difference between construction of the 'strut bar" and how it must function. The generic term "strut bar" by nature of it's design really consists of two pieces... the tower connection, and the bar. This is the case unless you could physically put holes in a straight bar and attach it to the tower area direectly. Unfortunately, usually you can't do this.
- the joint does not reduce the functional 'stiffness' of the strut bar. The 'joint' area connection with the 'bar' is not part of the 'stiffness' equation affecting loads and handling. The bar material is the only 'stiffness' that matters, given that the strut tower connection is sufficiently strong as a joining point.
- only the stiffness of the bar in pulling and compression loads is important. So if the bar bends (not the joint area which is screwed tight to the strut tower) that is bad. Otherwise, it doesn't matter. Having a 'joint' does not in and of itself reduce or contribute to the bars stiffness in compression and in pulling, but the material and shape of the bar does.
- the connection between the bar and the tower connector can be welded solid or be a joint. It doesn't effect the strut bar function given they are engineered to the forces they must withstand. Many bars are jointed - look at the MazdaSpeed one, for example, why would MazdaSpeed (and may other reputable companies) create a worse than stiock bar - they wouldn't.
- your saying the joint is more complex. It depends I guess, welding, setting up an accurate jig, that's pretty complex. Simple assemble is well, pretty un-complex. In any case, the joint does have advantages. 1st, you can assemble it easily. 2nd, assembly allows making the bar itself of a completely different material than the tower connector... like steel or aluminum at the tower, and aluminum or carbon fiber for the bar, etc. It is difficult/impossible to weld these materials obviously. This can result in weight savings, not gain. 3rd, you can un-connect the bar and lift it up for easiler engine access, if needed, rather than disassembling the bar from the tower. These are some really nice advantages!
- just considering the joint itself, why would a screw and a nut be more weighty than welding. It's likey a tossup at worst.
- agreed a good design should be as simple as possible, but if a better design is a little more complex, then that is as simple as the better design can be.
If this makes sense to you - Great! Otherwise, feel free to blow holes in it. Thanks.