Help w/ Koni Shock Install
#1
Help w/ Koni Shock Install
I installed my Koni Yellows the other night and I'm getting a knocking/bumping noise on my front end. I know where the noise is coming from. It coming from the silver washer on top of the shock hitting my car. I have a picture of the part I'm talking about, the silver part is hitting the body when I go over a very small bump. There is about half an inch spacing between these two parts. This picture isn't from my car.
Also, I have searched for about 3-4 hours now and can't find exactly what it is. I'm thinking it has to do with the rubber bushings in the shock assembly. Does anyone have a diagram of exactly how to assemble the koni shocks? Thanks
Also, I have searched for about 3-4 hours now and can't find exactly what it is. I'm thinking it has to do with the rubber bushings in the shock assembly. Does anyone have a diagram of exactly how to assemble the koni shocks? Thanks
#2
More than likely something is not installed in the correct order, you should start with a washer on the bottom(or bumpstop which must be drilled)then a rubber donut with the lip facing upward, then the metal spacer then the top hat(black stock piece), then the other rubber donut with lip facing downward and then the top metal spacer.
#3
So I had a problem like this as well because I was a retard and drilled the metal plate wrong size. But here is what im talking about
And in this picture you can see if you drilled the hole the wrong size where it says NO it will actually slide down the shaft. Where it says YES is where the plate is suppose to sit. That actually contains the spring there. Thats the only thing keeping the assembly together.
If you drilled the hole to big you need to goto Mazda and get new plates.
And in this picture you can see if you drilled the hole the wrong size where it says NO it will actually slide down the shaft. Where it says YES is where the plate is suppose to sit. That actually contains the spring there. Thats the only thing keeping the assembly together.
If you drilled the hole to big you need to goto Mazda and get new plates.
#5
#7
anybody got a diagram for the same problem but in the rear shocks? I just installed tokico d specs with lowering springs and now im getting that same kinda noise over harder bumps. like a klank sound
#11
Very nice. I also read a few instance that those cheap spring compressors fail while holding the spring, and making some very hazardous situation. I hope the one I will be renting will hold up, but I will wear my helmet when I work on it lol.
Also thanks for the 3 months reminder...I have always been wondering for how long I can be renting the tool..
Also thanks for the 3 months reminder...I have always been wondering for how long I can be renting the tool..
#12
The stock springs, and the 3 or 4 different aftermarket springs i've installed for people can be compressed by hand. There's really no need for a spring compressor IMHO. The suicide clamps you rent from the autoparts store aren't worth the time or effort. Just take your time taking off the retaining nut at the top.
#15
Word to the wise...
DO rent a free (cost/reimbursed) spring compressor to disassemble the stock strut assembly. You can compress an aftermarket spring by hand to reassemble, but the stock springs pack a punch to take appart. It can be done, but not advised to a new mechanic.
That being said… you do not need to get an air gun, but you will need allen wrench (hex key) in addition to a wrench to get the top nut off.
GL...
DO rent a free (cost/reimbursed) spring compressor to disassemble the stock strut assembly. You can compress an aftermarket spring by hand to reassemble, but the stock springs pack a punch to take appart. It can be done, but not advised to a new mechanic.
That being said… you do not need to get an air gun, but you will need allen wrench (hex key) in addition to a wrench to get the top nut off.
GL...
#18
lol I saw how the allen wrench came into play...funny it is used to lock the piston so the nuts can be taken off by an open wrench. The Koni has 9mm hex on the top of the piston and 9mm socket is used instead.
Now I put the first shock back (make 4 runs to the store hence the delay), and I saw on the manual it says only fully tighten the suspension bolts when the car is down..that's gonna be really hard for the upper A arm end bolts...It doesn't seem to be possible to fit my torque wrench in there with wheel on...not sure how other people did it.
btw the drill bit should be 12mm. Since I couldn't find metric drill bit, I used 15/32" (11.9mm) and it worked. I had to wiggle the drill around a bit to make the hole that little bit bigger though.
Now I put the first shock back (make 4 runs to the store hence the delay), and I saw on the manual it says only fully tighten the suspension bolts when the car is down..that's gonna be really hard for the upper A arm end bolts...It doesn't seem to be possible to fit my torque wrench in there with wheel on...not sure how other people did it.
btw the drill bit should be 12mm. Since I couldn't find metric drill bit, I used 15/32" (11.9mm) and it worked. I had to wiggle the drill around a bit to make the hole that little bit bigger though.
#20
So I found something interesting about my rear shocks...both of the rear bump stop rubber got shattered. I have no idea how long they should be, but I knew something isn't right because I always get ridiculous amount of weight transfer in the back when autocross. Now I found my reason.
Here is a picture of the shattered bump stop. (flash doesn't bounce off the ceiling too well so it's dark...lol
Now the car is staying on the jack stands until I get the parts...
I drove around to settle the bushing after I finished the front, and I can tell how good it will be when all 4 koni's are in...It's going to be GREAT!
Here is a picture of the shattered bump stop. (flash doesn't bounce off the ceiling too well so it's dark...lol
Now the car is staying on the jack stands until I get the parts...
I drove around to settle the bushing after I finished the front, and I can tell how good it will be when all 4 koni's are in...It's going to be GREAT!
#22
Also just some info for people who might do this...the allen wrench needed is 5mm. I had a small one and so it was killing me to put enough torque on it, since the top nut got seized overtime and it has tread lock on it. I would certainly buy a bigger 5mm allen wrench...
#25
Oh I was replacing the OEM shocks with the Koni's. So the car has been on the factory shocks since 04. I got the car 6 months ago so I don't know what the previous owners had done to it...Pretty strange that both the rear ones are shattered but the front ones are both fine. The rear bump stops are kinda brittle now though...might be a material thing.
I'm doing autocross, so I guess those bump stops are pretty important to me...hopefully they are not too expensive...checking price with the dealer today. I knew something was wrong with the suspension when I do autocross...now I found out why.
I'm doing autocross, so I guess those bump stops are pretty important to me...hopefully they are not too expensive...checking price with the dealer today. I knew something was wrong with the suspension when I do autocross...now I found out why.