just found our yesterday.
not sure if the same will happen with stock endlinks, but the RB ones are more beefy... if there was even a 1cm of clearance, it would not have rubbed.

I usually go around in the middle setting for the front sway bar, but tried the hardest setting when I was out in the track- just to try different settings and was lazy to change it back.

I believe this is only an issue for the front.

The rubbing can be avoided by adjusting the progress swaybar to the middle or the soft(est) setting.

black arrow= area where it rubs
red arrow= middle setting
blue arrow= soft setting

 

I would say put it back to the middle hole....the front progress bar on full stiff is too stiff anyway

 

that depends on the overall setup, some race teams run stiffer still

but the oversize RB endlink is the issue. How many times do you guys have to be told that the OE endlinks are fine with these bars?

 

I'm PRETTY sure that you have it backwards - your photo shows it on the SOFTEST setting.
Greater distance from the point of rotation = hole closest towards the end = greatest rotational force = "stiffest" setting

 

Are you sure? I helped to install my friend's rear sway, and the manual stated the outer holes are softer, while the inner ones are stiffer.

And doesn't a stiff setting mean it has less ability to rotate?

 

Not really...

Closest to the meat of the bar is the stiffest.

Farthest from the meat of the bar (at the end) is the softest.

The further you move out the "arm" of the bar, the more the bar will be allowed to twist, thus making the resistance to flexing less. AKA softer.

The closer to the meat of the bar you move the link the stiffer it will get because you are decreasing the length of the arm and using more of the bar to resists the forces of the suspension.


Think of it like this....

The fulcrum point (where the bar mounts to the frame) is a bolt head.

The arm (where you mount the endlink) is a breaker bar.

The further out you move on the arm the less force it will take to turn the bar, much like how the longer the breaker bar on a bolt head, the less force you have to exert to spin the head. The closer you get to the fulcrum point the more force is required to flex the bar.

 

I'm VERY sure the picture shows it in the STRONGEST setting.

 

The end-links that are stock length are designed for a stock height car....

Lower it a lot and you need shorter endlinks.......should be a no-brainer

 

It's definitely the stiffest setting, if you need confirmation from someone other than us, trust Whiteline's technical docs - http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruct...ar_general.pdf see fig. 5