Question about suspension preloading during install
#1
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Question about suspension loading during install
I'm hoping to clear this up for myself and anyone else who may be slightly confused by the instructions of "lower the car then tighten the control arm".
Are we talking about this bolt?:
If we are talking about that, what difference does it make? I can't visualize it.
Are we talking about this bolt?:
If we are talking about that, what difference does it make? I can't visualize it.
Last edited by qtwre; 09-17-2007 at 09:39 AM.
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Thanks for the correction. I actually took the term 'preloading' from the 'Eibach Springs' thread in which you also corrected them.
Thank you dannobre for explaining the twisting of bushings.
Whitehot, I didn't realize you even needed to undo those two bolts when changing suspension. A clearance issue? Obviously I haven't done it yet.
Thank you dannobre for explaining the twisting of bushings.
Whitehot, I didn't realize you even needed to undo those two bolts when changing suspension. A clearance issue? Obviously I haven't done it yet.
#8
Rotary , eh?
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Thanks for the correction. I actually took the term 'preloading' from the 'Eibach Springs' thread in which you also corrected them.
Thank you dannobre for explaining the twisting of bushings.
Whitehot, I didn't realize you even needed to undo those two bolts when changing suspension. A clearance issue? Obviously I haven't done it yet.
Thank you dannobre for explaining the twisting of bushings.
Whitehot, I didn't realize you even needed to undo those two bolts when changing suspension. A clearance issue? Obviously I haven't done it yet.
#11
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you unbolt the upper arms completely from the chassis pivot points, but not at the ball joint
this allows the upright/hub/spindle and upper arm to pivot outward along with the front shock assembly, once the top of the shock clears the fender lip you can extract it out fully, install is the reverse
this allows the upright/hub/spindle and upper arm to pivot outward along with the front shock assembly, once the top of the shock clears the fender lip you can extract it out fully, install is the reverse
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you unbolt the upper arms completely from the chassis pivot points, but not at the ball joint
this allows the upright/hub/spindle and upper arm to pivot outward along with the front shock assembly, once the top of the shock clears the fender lip you can extract it out fully, install is the reverse
this allows the upright/hub/spindle and upper arm to pivot outward along with the front shock assembly, once the top of the shock clears the fender lip you can extract it out fully, install is the reverse
Last edited by Mazurfer; 09-19-2007 at 03:49 PM.
#13
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the ABS wire has a bracket that mounts to the upright with a 10 or 12mm bolt, taking it loose alleviates the problem
also unbolting the brake line bracket where it mounts on the upper A arm helps avoid pulling on it too
otherwise I haven't had any issue with letting it all sag
also unbolting the brake line bracket where it mounts on the upper A arm helps avoid pulling on it too
otherwise I haven't had any issue with letting it all sag
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I've found instead of lowering the car, you can use a jack to raise the hub until the car just lifts off the jack stands. It does the same thing and is easier to wrench stuff.
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Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 08:18 AM.
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