TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You sure know how to open a can of worms there are several warnings/threads on RBs site regarding compatible brake pad brands relative to rotor deposits, I believe you are using one of those brands ....

Edit: missed that you ran a different pad on there first, you have to use sandpaper etc to clean off the previous brake pad materials from the rotor face, otherwise you can get deposits like this too. I first experienced this with Carbotech maybe 12+ years ago ....



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Spin9k

I don't have experince with lots of pads, but doesn't gross pad deposit mean you're melting your pads onto your rotors? Which also means they aren't correct for your euipment and how you drive?

For the RB 2 pc all I can tell you is get pads that perform correctly for your own safety. Since I have those same 2 pc rotors myself and use Colbalt pads, I know they work, and work well, at any possible speed, repeatedly braking full stop, hundred of brake cycles a day, literally hours on end during any day (I have spent as many as 4 hrs on track in a day in 1/2 hr sessions), ... that would be my recommendation. Well, that is after thoroughly cleaning those rotors of the residue however that's best done.

RX8pwnage

iTrader: (1)

I would never track with them. I drive hard on street though, so they should perform well for me.

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

Ok i'll try the sand paper route.

Have any other insight into the pad deposits? RB's explanation is rather half-assed if you ask me.

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/pa...g.asp?full=yes

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

That process was told to me back in the very early years by Larry Narcis, the founder of Carbotech. They were aware of the intermixing pad deposit issue regardless of the rotor brand way back then. It has to do with the compound materials they use for their pads. Like Spin, I'm not having any issue with the pads I'm using and they're not the recommended brands ...

Spin9k

FYI, here's the RB link to the interesting story of re: deposits http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=73 and on recommended pads with RB rotors which are...

BTW, there is also instructions on removing the material from your rotors in the thread!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

RB stepping up is good, real good. Maybe the quality rep will not be tarnished. I hope so. I have always liked them and have gotten good service from them. I couldnt believe what the op and others have gone through.
I currently have the RB one piece rotors on my car and I have been running the carbo techs for years. I havent had any problems. My track prep may be a little different however.
I run the Carbo tech xp 8's all around. Never needed more pad.
I always clean my rotors using maybe 2 cans of brake cleaner and use very fine sandpaper, making sure I get both sides well. This takes a little time but it is also time well spent. You can be surprised what else you may see that needs addressing while you are doing this.
I install them a week before my event and I do a high speed break in after install and one other time during that week. I also run them for about a week post event before I change back to my regular pads. Never had a deposit issue. Maybe the stronger carbotech pads composition xp 10--12's etc is the reason?
RB discs last forever for me as well as the carbotech pads.
OD

Spin9k

lol ... must love that smell huh ? Two cans of that cleaner up close and personal would put me down for the count! You must see God from there...

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

thanks OD. That at least gives me a little hope for the carbotech pads. I dont think there is a difference in higher torque compounds when it comes to deposits. My rears have uneven deposits as well and they're XP8's. I think i just need to be good about cleaning them up before bedding them in. Like i said earlier, it didn't seem to effect braking performance but the vibration was noticeable and distracting. Obviously not good for the rotors in the long run either. I'll try to clean them up this week some time and re-bed them. I'll be going back to the track on Sept 4th so we'll try again then

RX8pwnage

iTrader: (1)

My front left BBK has a similar situation to Spins...the pad does not extend to the end of the rotor at the hat. Its not as bad as Spins...mine is about 3/16"-1/4" wide. Enough to leave an ugly ring of rust in a few months.

I called RB, they want me to swap the calipers from one to the other to see what the result is. If the other side comes up short (which is currently fitted perfectly) they said they will send me a new BBK. Will be a week or two before I have the opportunity to do it though. Will update results when something happens.

Spin9k

So they're kinda saying they sent you (confused) two different sized BB calipers?? or two different sized rotor hats?? That's truly weird....and swapping calipers is a bit of a PITA...I mean really....

...another thought...how about two diffferent cut sized pad sets?

RX8pwnage

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know it is a PITA...

I measured the dimensions of the rotor and hat and they are the same for each side. I dont see how the rotor could be causing the problem. Could possibly be an issue with the caliper or the mounting brackets for the caliper, so RB says. Guess we will see soon enough.


The pad fits in the caliper perfectly, as does the other side. It is definitely the caliper that is cutting short of the mark.

Spin9k

Ok the pad metal backing could fit in the caliper...but might be worth a comparison of the actual pad material...if one was cut differently (or just defective) that would make the symptom you describe.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If they sent you 2 different mounting brackets that would change things as well....they are different for the Enkei and the regular BBK's

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

brackets turned upside down sounds more likely.

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

Hey guys. I'm thinking about ditching the Carbotech pads for something else. The pad deposits issues is really getting to me. I just pulled off each rotor and scrubbed them with steel wool and brake cleaner (per RB's recommendation) to try and get the deposits off. I think i was able to get most of it off but i really dont want to have to go through that again. I think my only option is Hawk pads at this point. Cobalt is too backed up to get a set to me by next weekend and i'm not really sure what else is out there that is a good track pad besides Hawk that i can get in a hurry.

DTC60's? HT-10's? HT14 front HT10 Rear? DTC60 Front HT10 rear?

Or should i give the Carbo's a second chance? They did perform great besides the deposit issue.

Race Roots

iTrader: (64)

I will ask a fellow RX8'er about the HT-10's and ask him to post. He went through the same issues you did with different brake pads. He spent about the same as you on different pad types and brands.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I'd try HT10's...or DTC60's front and HT10 rears depending on your setup

I currently have the HT10's front and back and I like them

Spin9k

Ok guys, here's what happened. They got new rotors in, and they are the same. I asked why if they are a "manufacturer" of rotors, they don't actually 'make' a rotor that fits a particular fitment, but got no answer. Anyway, at that point, the options I was given were, 1) send me a can of black paint 2) keep what I have and sell me new rotors at a 50% discount (the same ones) with them painting them first 3) refund with me paying shipping to return these ones. I asked if the paint would withstand HPDE use and they said no. So I opted for the refund.

With that they suggested partial monetary compensation instead and I just keep them as is. Well, as I do like the performance of them, and for expediency, I agreed to that and will either live with it or see if I can improve the appearance myself somehow.

Sooo....now you know and bottom line... caveat emptor....if you were considering the RB 1 pc slotted.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Try the stuff that turns rust into a black paint type coating

Race Roots

iTrader: (64)

I find it really weird that you were the only one that had this issue. And to clarify they cannot guarantee something for HPDE. Not to mention they have never tested it themselves in a street environment to see if that would fix your problem.

I would have opted for some new rotors pre-painted.

All in all just a weird situation.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I'm still not sure what the problem is?? Just the rust ring ?

If they are painted with a cutout at the pad line.....or painted like they are, won't they have the same result when they get hot if the paint burns off?

Personally I would rather have a bit more meat there to dissipate heat...Dunno??

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

This might be a long shot but are your pads wearing evenly? I had a pad get ****-eyed in the caliper so the whole pad wasn't touching the rotor. It left a similar rust ring so I had to remove it, clean everything up and re-install and i've never had the problem since. Just an idea -- when's the last time you took the pads out?

Edit: Also, some pads are slightly larger or smaller than others. Maybe your pads aren't covering the whole rotor face? The Carbotechs i had were quite a bit larger than the Racing Brake pads i was using. Racing Brake pads were about 1/8th of an inch short on the inside and outside edges but the Carbos covered the whole thing plus an Extra 1/32 or so on the inside which flakes off every once in a while.

ThecdnRX8

The ring of rust is just a part of this product. I purchased my RB rear disc over 2 yrs ago and I have the same issue. So it has aways been an issue whether people mentioned it or not.





As far as the noise is concerned sometimes it happens. It is the pads moving back and forth in the calipers. Nothing to worry about. Might not be to nice to listen to but not any worse than brake squeal.

Had the same problem with pad deposit using the carbotech pads(xp8/bobcat) with the RB discs. Went thought the sanding process 2 times then decided it was not worth it anymore so I went with cobalts first going with there GTS compounds all around then moving to xr2/xr5 the actual compound they supply to the RX8's running Grand Am at the time. I was also considering Hawks but the pad they were using in Grand Am at the time was not available to the public. IMO if the are good enought for grand-am they will have to be good enought for me. In any case if you run your brakes to hard you will always have the potential to build up uneven pad deposit. So understanding and managing your braking system is your best option whatever pad rotor combo you run.

Spin9k

^ It just must be the way it is (I guess). Yup..weird..I agree. New prepainted would cost me more money, a non-starter and I'd have two sets of weird rear rotors. Guarantee has nothing to do with it. He said "The paint may not withstand several track sessions" and he recommended the refund ... at that point anyway.

Yes ..apparently same result. More meat..?? confused...

The OEM rotors have a 1.5" machined surface on the rotors. The pads used that 1.5" sweep area fully. The RB rotors have a 2.0" machined surface including slots which cover the majority of that area, and so that excess .5" of machined surface and the slots that extend into that area are left exposed and rust and look strange, esp. the slots.

I'm staring at the OEMs now, that's what I pulled off to put these new ones on. They're machined differently than the RB ones. It's like the rotor really belongs to another car. Dunno....but it's a closed issue to me. RB did what was required. Good guys and case closed.