Just wanted to give an update. I bought some DTC-60/HT-10's from a forum member but they didn't here in time for my track day so I had to put the Carbotechs in again.

Dondo and I dual drove my car for a total of fourteen 15 min sessions on Saturday . The Carbo's did much better this time. The pads are still leaving uneven deposits but its not nearly as bad as before. Only a slight vibration was noticeable every once in a while but it was so infrequent that i almost forgot about it completely. Dondo was so satisfied with the brakes he ordered a set of RB 2-piece rotors and track pads himself. We got some slight fade towards the end of the day but we think it was the fluid getting tired. I'll be upgrading from ATE to Motul 600 to see if that does the trick the next time around.

 

yup. those brakes were impressive. i can't wait to get them into my car now.

 

You have the EXACT same setup that I have except for the rotors. After about 30 to 40k on my OEM rotors with the Carbotech XP10 / XP8 combo, I'm thinking I'll be upgrading to these rotors next as well!

Great review! How are the lines holding up? If you're fading ATE, then the Motul RBF600 will be nearly the same. You might want to opt for the higher RBF660 that's available on the market.

 

He probably should change fluid more often.

Changing old brake fluid removes water from the brake lines. Changing old brake fluid is extremely important because new (dry) brake fluid has a much higher boiling point, compared to older (wet) brake fluid. Compressible gas bubbles form when brake fluid boils, which can result in a soft brake pedal.

Once brake fluid soaks up moisture it thickens and will not be able to withstand the heat created under the pressure of heavy braking. What happens next is a significant drop in the fluids boiling temperature (wet boiling point). When the fluid boils it turns into vapor and forms air bubbles, and this can result in more pedal travel to properly apply the brakes (soft pedal). Do not confuse this with "brake fade" that occurs when the brake compounds get too hot as a result of prolonged braking or improper bedding. Brake fade requires greater and greater pedal effort to stop the vehicle while boiling fluid increases pedal travel and makes the pedal feel soft.

ATE Super Blue:

Dry: 280°C (536°F)
Wet: 198°C (388°F)

RBF 600:

Dry: 312°C (594°F)
Wet: 216°C (421°F)

The differences are there, what I like most about ATE is the color change with swapping from Typ200 to Super blue which makes it easier to see when all the old fluid is flushed.

 

The lines perform great -- the only issue i've had was with the fitment. The hex bolt does not fit in the 5 point hex thing. I guess this was a known issue but they seem to be holding for now. The brake pedal is so much more firm and consistent than before. The clutch line is less noticeable but feels better than stock.

Except i completely flushed it a couple days before the event and again half way through the day

 

my 1 piece rb rotors are ruined after a track w/e with carbotech xp8 pads.
I have ran carbotech pads for a few years--never had a problem. last forever. i was on oem rotors.
I dont know what happened. This was my 2nd track event on the pads and rotors. Track prep was the same. Now I have cermetite (sic) and although i can use them for the street (just a little shutter) i cannot use them for tracking again.
Last set Of RB rotors for me. Looks like they would tell you this when you order them( i called)
olddragger

 

Od did you read the thread that jantzen posted about how the carbotechs are not exactly compatible with the rb rotors? You should try the hawk track pads and see if they're better

 

Good to know, people often over look this as it is very important to be on top of this when being extremely hard on your brake system.

Denny it is on the website, Carbotechs are not a good enough pad for the RB 2 PC Rotors they have a much higher level of hardness over OEM as well as other Rotor manufacturers.

Think of it this way would you take track pads to stock rotors? You could but you would kill those rotors pretty quickly.

The pads you need to look into for using with those rotors are Cobalt among others listed on their site.

You have to understand the proper use of brake pad with the RB Rotors. This doesn't make the RB Rotor inferior...it makes it superior, then you would be complaining about how the rotor is cracking or warping or wearing quickly.

 

Not sure why you stick using Carbotech's

Says they are not compatible on the website......And it has been mentioned on here numerous times that they cause problems with those rotors......so why would you use them and complain about the rotors

 

Your rotors aren't ruined, only messed up. Can't believe you of all people haven't read all the hubbub about carbotech and RB rotors... it's been a topic for months with pics and sob stories galore. Plus the info about how to clean up afterwards and move on with better pads like Raceroots mentions. Besides you'll be glad you did...my 2C as always is RB rotors and Cobalt pads... a superior combination you'll only appreciate once you experience how it performs on track .

 

guys -- i am running the one piece rotor--oem replacement. Should be different metal. i didnt order over the net--i called them directly. i had already ran them on the rear once with the xp8's and only had a minimum deposits. When I ordered they mentioned the possibility of deposit problems that they had seen on the 2 piece rotor. One piece rotor should be ok with proper cleaning, blah, blah.
That was what I was told and since the rears ran ok once before i got the fronts.
I dont know what happened this time--but they are not able to be put on the track again and i am waiting to see if any shutter developes with street use. about 3k street miles on them.
live and learn
Hey I like carbotech pads!
I will run oem or stop techs in the future---never a problem.
OD

 

^ they do sound rather clueless...I'll can't disagree...something going on w/these mistakes about things...too many to dismiss ... sad. Would guess tho frts produce more heat so the deposits...... but still why not try cleaning they should be salvagable...I mean OEMs work fine on track...these are at least OEM quality...doubt they are warped because of deposits - dunno.

 

I would just have the rotors turned to get the uneven pad deposits off. It will likely remove any cementite that possibly formed as well. Make sure to properly bed in the Carbotechs with the fresh turned rotor. I am curious to see the results. I am deeply suspicious of this whole RB rotor superiority thing. I use Cobalts on my RX8 but I use Carbotechs on my Mitsubishi racecar so I don't have an axe to grind with either one. I am using OEM blanks on both.

Olddragger it could just be that it is time for you to bump up to something above the XP8s up front. I use the Cobalt XR1 up front on my RX8 which would be equivalent to a Carbotech XP12 up front and I don't have a supercharger and I do have brake ducts. Maybe you are just getting too fast for the XP8s up front!

 

Not sure if anyone knew yet or it has been posted elsehwere but RacingBrake has corrected the rear rust ring issue with their new production run.

They now have extended the center hub so that the rust ring will not appear.

 

Has anyone came up with an conclusion what pads to use with these rotors?

I use Hawk HPS now and find performance VERY unsatisfying.

 

For street use or track?

 

Focus is track, but I drive my car to and from track + some sunshine trips as well. I estimate 3-4000km/year max.

Would like to avoid squeal, but if its no way around, then I have to live with the squeal. If so, I must say I feel a bit fooled by RB I'm afraid.

 

The rotors are not your problem.....I think they are the best rotors I have ever used for track.... Are you running the OEM shims? That helps with the squeel a lot

You can't have everything...if you drive with track pads on the street they are loud and a bit strange when cold. If you try and track on HPS or equivalent you will melt them all over the rotors like they are butter....

Personally I would run track pads on the street if you are going to drive it that little. I wouldn't daily drive them though.....I think I would use HT10's for what you are planning..they are good for hard track and canyon driving...and will still work on the street if you drive using your head

 

the best compromise in that case IMO is the Porterfield R4-1 "vintage" compound

http://porterfield-brakes.com/images...6_02_41_04.pdf

 

Thanks for helping me out.

@dannobre: My current setup is actually so bad, that i considered it might be a bad batch of pads. It's that bad. At low temp its a lot worse, estimate at least double force at first braking, then not as bad, but still far worse than OEM throughout temps I have tested. Did not test OEM at track though.

 

The Hawk HPS is a pure street pad. If used for track they likely overheated and glazed over. There were never very good IMO. Very old technology. Same for the Hawk HP+.

 

Amen to that

 

Exactly...and we have been harping at this for years

So much trying to re-invent the wheel on here lately....