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Rear brake adjustment ?

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Old 08-06-2006 | 10:49 PM
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tomfree's Avatar
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rear brake adjustment ?

I've spent the last hour reading threads about issues with replacing the rear pads, and I can't find anything that corresponds with what I'm seeing. I'm not even sure it's a "problem", but I wanted to address it before I drove the car if possible.

I just replaced the pads with Carbotech Bobcats at all corners, the fronts were no problem - I've done them 4-5 times, swapping between track pads and street pads.

The new part for me was the rears. I have the little "cube" tool that snaps on to a 3/8" ratchet to retract the piston, and that went according to plan also.

What's I'm not sure about is the proper adjustment of the rear caliper. I backed the piston off enough to clear the Bobcats, bolted the caliper back together, and checked for side-to-side movement in the caliper. There is zero movement. The pads don't seem to be dragging the rotor, but it seems much more snug than I'm used to seeing on other cars (NA Miata, specifically). I unbolted the caliper, and turned each piston quite a few more clockwise turns, bolted the caliper back together, and it was no different. It seems I've retracted the piston as far as it will go. It doesn't stop spinning, but it doesn't retract any further.

a) Does the piston ever stop turning when it reaches full retraction?
b) Is the "snugness" of the rear calipers with new pads normal?
Old 08-08-2006 | 09:11 PM
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I'll sort of answer my own question, as I just got back from bedding in the Bobcats.

As I pulled out of the garage, I had no pad dragging from the rear, so that was a good sign. The E-brake still had about the same range of movement, perhaps 1 click less for it to engage.

I did the recommended 60 to 30mph stops and put some good heat into the pads and rotors. I checked the rotors for smearing or excess pad deposits, and all seemed normal. There definitely was a little bit of pad material transfer to the rotors, which means they were indeed bedding.

All is well.
Old 08-08-2006 | 11:25 PM
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the ebrake shouldn't be effected by that... its a drum in disc rear brake, meaning the ebrake only engages the drums while the master cylinder only engages the discs.
Old 08-09-2006 | 11:17 PM
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I'm going to respectfully disagree with you on that one. When you unbolt the rear calipers, there are 2 connections - the brake fluid line and the ebrake cable. The ebrake cable comes down from the handle to a "splitter" that runs the cables to each rear caliper, and actuates the piston when the cable is pulled.

Pop off your rear calipers and rear rotors. You'll be hard pressed to find a drum in there, I promise. Furthermore, attempt to unbolt and remove the rear calipers with the ebrake handle pulled. It's pretty much impossible. Ask me how I know...
Old 08-09-2006 | 11:20 PM
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^^ you are right...no drum in the rear like Subi's and others. The 8 uses a rear caliper with an integrated emergency brake activation for the pistons. This kinda sucks....cause you cant go to 4 pots in the rear without lousing the e-brake.......

although....who needs better brakes than the stock rear anyway
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