My use of car is DD/Autox, my DD is 2 miles round trip, I autox 1-2 times per month, every month. My drives to go out are usually 30-45mins.

At a local RX8 meet, it was pointed out that 2 or 3 my rotors have a few big scrape/gouge/cuts... Im not really sure how to quantify it, I will take pictures when i can. Car still seems to stop like normal, but Rote8 said i would probably need new rotors and pads. Not really sure how to tell if i NEED to, but any place i take it to will obviously tell me they need to sell me some right away.

So in the case that i do need a replacement, I figure i may as well buy 4 new rotors and pads. I want to paint my calipers, so i could do it all at once. Because of the autocross, I want the best stopping power, but prefer rotors that wouldn't rust like oem. To keep in class, i need to pick oem. If i chose non-slotted/drilled, noone would ever notice. Are there any rotors as good as oem, but not slot/drilled, and similar price? I found Centric rotors that are cheaper than OEM from rosenthal, but couldnt find any posts on here as to the quality. I've read multiple posts on here back and forth as to the quality of Stoptech, Racingbrake etc.. If RB is better than oem, and around the same price (looks to be) and will not rust as badly, and looks better, then i will go that way. But looking mainly for recommendations/comments to help me choose what kind of rotors and where to get them from.

Also, pad choice is free, so I think Hawk HPS is what i want, right? From what i read on here, ceramic is less dust, but less good, and Hawk HP Plus are better, but eat rotors. And again, where is the best place to buy em? (best deal)

Thanks.

 

I have centric rotors on my rears. They seem to be as good as stock but I am questioning their life, they are already warped with about 20000 kms on them. I actually go to lapping days and run solo 1 and drive to work on them. I don't think any of the brands actually beat the OE's rotors for life and the brakes are one of the best components for this car. I have also tried plenty of different brakes pads, I've used project mu (these were great, long life but really pricey), EBC reds (they were horrible, dusted like mad and lasted for 1000 miles SERIOUSLY you didn't read that wrong) and Hawk HP+ (dust bad, squeel really bad after one track day). The HPS's are a street pad (dust badly) and are kind of weak for any sort of track/autocrossing, if you dont' mind the squeeling get hawk HT 10s or DTC 60s, DO NOT get the blues tho, they ruin rotors when driven cold. Hope that helps a little

 

It does... what i read from that is... dont get centrics, and the only pad better than stock is project mu, but its $$$.

 

I documented rotor wear after one year of HP Plus daily driven + track use. Car is daily driven, seeing a track day every other month and the rotor wear was so minimal -to the point where the measuring calipers barely registered any wear.

HP Plus have a firm bite. They didn't make noise on my car (I always greased the shims and pad backing plates). They do dust plenty, however.

I stopped using them, as I was exceeding their limit of trackability, and I moved on to pad compound with a higher operating range.

I would look into Cobalt Friction GT Sport pads if you're looking for a good AutoX compound. Also look in to Carbotech Panther Plus and Porterfield R4S (R4S downside is virtual no initial bite).

 

Pictures would really help. Also the cracks, do they catch your nail when you drag it across the crack?

 

would love to see photos of the bad rotors! that is odd..

have a set of project mu rear pads new that i would sell you cheap...

or trade for something.

beers

 

Centrics I think are good for street driving (maybe its just the non performance oriented set that I got) but for any sort of performance, they can't seem to handle the beating.

 

Swoope... how much. Im in orlando pretty often.
I will take pics as soon as i can remember. I haven't looked since he showed me because I've been not sleeping and my commute is so short. I only use the brakes at one stopsign and in the parking lot. You could feel it.

Anyone got any comments on buying someones resurfaced OEM rotors. Not really sure what to expect from them, but its much cheaper than buying new rotors... But i dont really want to cheap out on brakes, since they're probably the most important part of the car.

Im leaning toward OEM rotors and MU pads now... seems the best stopping power, BS - legal, and I can paint the rotor hubs myself with caliper paint.

 

i like your avatar better now swoope. I need to update mine too. so much car related work to do....

anyone know any place to get a price on oem rotors new? other than a dealer or rosenthal.
I think i might swing by the dealer and see if i can make em warranty it... its doubtful but worth a shot.

 

if i had know you could have had them sunday..

35 bucks. can send photos if you like. as to rotors. i would pick up some used ones. marsred100 i think has a set. and was selling them cheap. he is in lakeland.

drives the red pettit car that was right next to yours. i could probably pick them up for you or bastage might be over before to long..

our stock rotors are very strong..

beers

 

Juan already sold his... in a few hours. Just my luck eh.

What do you think of the deal in the FS thread (that you've been posting in).
80 shipped for all 4 is cheaper than one Brand new oem. Just not sure on the quality etc... Will them being refinished change the bedding process?

Also im going back and forth on if i can/should do this myself.

and if you're saying 35 for rear proj. MU pads. then done and done. Ill probably be heading over that way pretty soon for one reason or another.

 

Slotted 1-piece Stoptech's are the Centric plain rotors. Centric also owns Stoptech.

 

the bedding process is what it is. old rotors or new.. i would give new ones a couple hundred miles before bedding..

i dont know how they can be sold for 80 bucks shipped. but it is a killer deal..

will hold the rears for you.. i think mazsurfer had some rotors also. think he is in melborne..


beers

 

the OPs description is normal, just replace the rotors when it's time for pads

plenty of us are using the Centric rotors without issue, anybody who warps rear rotors on an RX-8 has some other issue to deal with ...

 

its normal? I have 20k miles on em. I know i brake more than i used to with my other cars, it just seems a bit much that they're dead this quick.

 

Do it yourself, it's soo easy. It took me 1hr 15min to change all four pads, put my street tires back on, and load up the car after the Sebring track day this weekend. A couple more bolts for doing the rotor is all it takes. I can give you a hand at the next autocross or even the Geneva event. I also have a set of OEM front rotors and OEM stock pads that I'm not using anymore. I'll sell them to you cheap if you want them.

 

pblue; would love to see pics.

 

I took some pics, will post them soon, (I go home in half an hour). Just a scrape in the middle of each rotor, though much worse on the rears.

If i buy the refinished rotors and use em, couldnt i just have my own refinished?
what kind of usable thickness is there on rotors? Also, if my pads were out and thats how the damage happened, why didnt they squeal like mad like my other cars did when the pads were dying?

Pmed you costello... I want to do it myself, and i just called a dealer and was quoted 350 labor, so... yea i wont be paying that. dont think ill have all the parts ready by sunday though. I want to paint the calipers and rotor hubs while im at it. Also i want to make sure to properly bed them, and if i install at my house, I can be on 528 without having to stop and then i have 100 miles of straight road to myself if its before 7am.

 

 

 

Doesn't look too bad to me. Just need to resurface them. You might have had a small rock or piece of debris get between the pad and the rotor which caused the gouge. I had the same thing happen on my rotor when I was switching pads. There was plenty of material on my pad. Can't tell how thick your pads are from the pictures though. Probably can't get a good picture of the pad thickness without taking the wheel off.