Danmn858

iTrader: (10)

Looking to swap out the stock front strut bar for an aftermarket, mainly for the looks but I still want it to be better than the stock 26mm bar. So whats the best one for the price? I was looking at the Greddy strut bar but I couldnt find the size of it on any site I looked, so bogus. Anyway, all your guys' input would help. Thanks!!

cornholio135

iTrader: (2)

Here ya go you get Front and Rear for $109...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-09...item255eaa72c5

I have them and they work well...

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=204843

Beatrush Front Strut Bar -$232 (GB special -$142)
Nice and beefy front strut bar. Looks good and performs as needed.

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

Strut bars don't do much on our cars, and some race teams don't even run them. So the best bar is one that adds a brake master cylinder brace. Mazdaspeed is the only one I know of. There is also a add on brace you can buy, but I think it only works with the stock bar.

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

i think the op knows that

waNkLeR

im just going to sand blast mine and powdercoat it another color... for the back i will
use the parts from a couple of bars i have and fabricate the mounts

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

yep, several of us don't even run with the OE one ... hows that for the best price?

Danmn858

iTrader: (10)

Oh wow, thanks!

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Yes, and the same racers/modders for the most part will tell you to go to massively-stiff spring/shock combinations. Total spring rate = spring + body flex. Over the past 40 years, every manufacturer has done their best to reduce body flex and generally reduce spring rates. Why? Test drive a 1970 Camaro SS (I used to own one) vs. a 2010 version (which I tried out yesterday). For rather smooth roads the difference can be small, for anything with significant bumps: totally different. (A live-axle Mustang comparison might be more fair).

I agree, any difference between the stock brace and another 2-point brace will be minimal. The difference between it and the GTSPEC 6 point is not (and it looks cool too.) Add that and a lower front brace, plus a set of heavier anti-roll bars, and you get improved handling and save yourself the cost (and discomfort) of stiff coil-overs. (Not negating here the adjustability and other possible (racing) benefits - but to get those really working, you have to know what you're doing.)

YMMV

c0ldf1ame

iTrader: (5)

^and adds a ton of weight you dont really need

but sure looks nice

Danmn858

iTrader: (10)

how much for that?^

TopGear8

iTrader: (3)

And makes it impossible to get to your oil filter without taking it off...

tiltmode43

iTrader: (15)

Not impossible, just much, much harder. This is with the JIC 4-point at least...

c0ldf1ame

iTrader: (5)

needs some very flexible wrists haha

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

The GTSPEC came out to be about 12 lbs heavier (with the lower front included). To compensate, I took 18 lbs off my belly this summer. I have a Series II filter (taller than stock) plus a Prosport adapter plate and still can get the filter on/off without removing the bar. (Flexible wrists).

yale02

iTrader: (16)

I have the MS one just because of the master cylinder brace.