Suggestions for brake rotor and pad upgrades?
#1
Suggestions for brake rotor and pad upgrades?
Hey everyone, I'm looking to get some stainless cross-drilled, slotted rotors for my 8 and some new pads. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a rotor/pad combination that won't kick up so much brake dust that I have to wash my wheels daily?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Hard to give recommendations without knowing your intended application. The question you ask is like going to a sales clerk and saying, "Hi, I want to buy some new clothes. Can you help me?" Chances are their first response will be "Sure. What's the occasion?"
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Fix ps3
Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 04:56 AM.
#3
Re: Suggestions for brake rotor and pad upgrades?
Originally posted by CylindaKilla
Does anyone have a good suggestion for a rotor/pad combination that won't kick up so much brake dust that I have to wash my wheels daily?
Does anyone have a good suggestion for a rotor/pad combination that won't kick up so much brake dust that I have to wash my wheels daily?
#6
Re: Re: Suggestions for brake rotor and pad upgrades?
Originally posted by CylindaKilla
I do believe I've made my main criterion obvious. I'm looking for a low-dust solution.
I do believe I've made my main criterion obvious. I'm looking for a low-dust solution.
If low dust is your primary consideration then stick with stock rotors and concentrate on pads. Are you aware the dust is primarily a result of graphite (or other materials) that are designed to reduce squeal? So you search for low dust is going to result in loud, squeaky brakes.
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Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 04:57 AM.
#7
Omicron, you truly are a "Super Moderator". Out of all the replies to this thread, yours was the only useful one!
Thanks!
As for you, PUR NRG,
I've seen plenty of rotors that are both - YES, BOTH - cross-drilled and slotted. I don't see what you're trying to point out.
In the future, when someone asks for a solution, don't reply with MORE PROBLEMS! Instead, take a note from Omicron and offer ACTUAL HELP.
Thanks!
As for you, PUR NRG,
the request for drilled and slotted is almost a contradiction
In the future, when someone asks for a solution, don't reply with MORE PROBLEMS! Instead, take a note from Omicron and offer ACTUAL HELP.
#8
I've seen drilled and slotted rotors. Then again I've also seen cheesy brake shields with a picture of drilled rotors printed on them to make people think real drilled rotors are on the car. So what? Just because something exists doesn't mean it's good. I would be very curious to hear your explanation of why drilled and slotted rotors are better than slotted alone. And please don't give some lame reasoning like "drilled rotors are better than stock, slotted rotors are better than stock, therefore drilled and slotted must be even better!"
#9
Originally posted by CylindaKilla
I've seen plenty of rotors that are both - YES, BOTH - cross-drilled and slotted. I don't see what you're trying to point out.
I've seen plenty of rotors that are both - YES, BOTH - cross-drilled and slotted. I don't see what you're trying to point out.
The stock rotors will stand up to unlimited track use with appropriate pads.
Regards,
Gordon
#10
Gordon,
I have to disagree with you as I have already had to replace my front rotors due to the aggressive compound used in the OEM pads.
Since then I've been using CarboTech Bobcats for the last 3k miles and I don't know if I would recommend them to other people. The initial bite is noticeably softer than the OEM pads but the stopping power is pretty much the same. They also produce a lot less brake dust but are fairly noisey. So all in all they are kind of a mixed bag and I think I'll try something else when they wear out.
I have to disagree with you as I have already had to replace my front rotors due to the aggressive compound used in the OEM pads.
Since then I've been using CarboTech Bobcats for the last 3k miles and I don't know if I would recommend them to other people. The initial bite is noticeably softer than the OEM pads but the stopping power is pretty much the same. They also produce a lot less brake dust but are fairly noisey. So all in all they are kind of a mixed bag and I think I'll try something else when they wear out.
#11
contradiction
n 1: opposition between two conflicting forces or ideas 2: (in logic) a statement that is necessarily false; "the statement `he is brave and he is not brave' is a contradiction"
Given the information above, can anyone explain why cross-drilled AND slotted are not contradictory terms...SLOWLY!
n 1: opposition between two conflicting forces or ideas 2: (in logic) a statement that is necessarily false; "the statement `he is brave and he is not brave' is a contradiction"
Given the information above, can anyone explain why cross-drilled AND slotted are not contradictory terms...SLOWLY!
#12
CylindaKilla, I'm asking you to explain why drilled and slotted rotors are superior to slotted alone. If you can't explain why you want what you want then this thread is useless.
Pointless clarification: I said slotted and drilled is almost contradictory because both were devised as separate solutions to the same problem. Hence the "opposition between two conflicting ideas" regarding which is the superior solution.
Regardless I'm still waiting for your explanation.
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Cheap Glass Bubblers
Pointless clarification: I said slotted and drilled is almost contradictory because both were devised as separate solutions to the same problem. Hence the "opposition between two conflicting ideas" regarding which is the superior solution.
Regardless I'm still waiting for your explanation.
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Cheap Glass Bubblers
Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 04:59 AM.
#13
Originally posted by Speed Racer
Gordon,
I have to disagree with you as I have already had to replace my front rotors due to the aggressive compound used in the OEM pads.
Gordon,
I have to disagree with you as I have already had to replace my front rotors due to the aggressive compound used in the OEM pads.
Regards,
Gordon
#14
Originally posted by Speed Racer
...I have to disagree with you as I have already had to replace my front rotors due to the aggressive compound used in the OEM pads...
...I have to disagree with you as I have already had to replace my front rotors due to the aggressive compound used in the OEM pads...
---jps
#15
Originally posted by Sputnik
How many sets of pads did it take to wear down the rotors? Or were they replaced for reasons other than or in addition to simply wearing them too thin?
---jps
How many sets of pads did it take to wear down the rotors? Or were they replaced for reasons other than or in addition to simply wearing them too thin?
---jps
FYI - the majority of the brake dust in the front is not from the pads, it is from the rotors wearing.
#16
PUR NRG,
Firstly, slotting and cross drilling rotors are not "conflicting ideas", since, as you say, they were both "devised as separate solutions to the same problem", they are parallel ideas.
Secondly, read the thread, I NEVER CLAIMED drilled and slotted rotors were better than rotors that are either only cross-drilled or only slotted. That's an issue you put on the table.
Regardless, if you don't have a setup to recommend, why do you continue to read and respond to this thread?
Firstly, slotting and cross drilling rotors are not "conflicting ideas", since, as you say, they were both "devised as separate solutions to the same problem", they are parallel ideas.
Secondly, read the thread, I NEVER CLAIMED drilled and slotted rotors were better than rotors that are either only cross-drilled or only slotted. That's an issue you put on the table.
Regardless, if you don't have a setup to recommend, why do you continue to read and respond to this thread?
Last edited by CylindaKilla; 07-01-2004 at 03:41 PM.
#17
Ok guys, PUR NRG and CylindaKilla, that's enough.
CylindaKilla, I'm glad I could help. And FYI, PUR has helped ME with suspension questions in the past...
There's no reason to argue symantics. Main point here is that the RX-8s brakes don't need to be drilled, slotted, or poked in any way - they're spectacularly good just the way they come from the factory. Anyone who's tracked their car will agree.
CylindaKilla, I'm glad I could help. And FYI, PUR has helped ME with suspension questions in the past...
There's no reason to argue symantics. Main point here is that the RX-8s brakes don't need to be drilled, slotted, or poked in any way - they're spectacularly good just the way they come from the factory. Anyone who's tracked their car will agree.
#20
Originally posted by Speed Racer
When I brought the car in at 17k miles the tech told me that the front rotors were worn to the point where they could not be turned and they needed to be replaced. Mazda covered the rotors under warranty but refused to replace the pads because they were hardly worn...
When I brought the car in at 17k miles the tech told me that the front rotors were worn to the point where they could not be turned and they needed to be replaced. Mazda covered the rotors under warranty but refused to replace the pads because they were hardly worn...
I suspect that someone put something like a Hawk Blue or Black pad on the car thinking race pads are better, and drove it around town like that. If those pads are not up to their normal operating temperatures (which is very very hard to do on a city street, practically impossible, you have to do it intentionally in an area with little to no traffic, and they will cool back down very quickly), they will literally grind away at rotors.
---jps
#21
No, I'm positive that they were the OEM pads. Trust me when I say that the dealerships that I have gone to would not go secretly out of their way to install race pads on my car. That would take too much effort, time, and money.
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