Sway Bars
02-28-2009, 12:33 PM
#302
Rotary Addict
OK I just got the progress tech sways installed on my car and I used prothane grease on the bushings. My question is are the sway bars supposed to swing freely once they are mounted to the frame but before they are attached to the endlinks. The grease was extremely sticky and the bar has a good bit of resistance when I would try to move it up and down. Is this resistance going to affect how the sway bars perform or how they interact with the shocks and springs. The bars can stay in a horizontal position on their own just to give you an idea of how much resistance there is. I'm not sure if I used too much prothane or not enough. I liberally applied the grease to all bushings and when I tightened them to the frame, some grease would come out of the crack but not much. Just wondering if this is normal for these sway bars as the old stock ones seemed to move much easier. Thanks
02-28-2009, 02:04 PM
#304
Momentum Keeps Me Going
You may think there is resistance you pushing the bar, but your car's weight bearing down on the bar is huge compared to any bushing friction. Too loose would be more troublesome.
And the point of the better bushings is too provide more resistance to bushing deformation and squish. They need to be firmer.
And the point of the better bushings is too provide more resistance to bushing deformation and squish. They need to be firmer.
02-28-2009, 10:58 PM
#305
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Re: the issue of bushing bracket strength, why not just double up? That is, you could just get another pair of brackets and run the bolts through the stack of two on each side. I seriously doubt any bar could bust through that much metal. Seems like the most cost-effective solution, and I want my sway bar bracket to have zero chance of breaking while I'm at ten tenths in a corner.
When I get my Progress bars, I'll do this and post pics.
When I get my Progress bars, I'll do this and post pics.
03-04-2009, 02:01 PM
#306
Re: the issue of bushing bracket strength, why not just double up? That is, you could just get another pair of brackets and run the bolts through the stack of two on each side. I seriously doubt any bar could bust through that much metal. Seems like the most cost-effective solution, and I want my sway bar bracket to have zero chance of breaking while I'm at ten tenths in a corner.
When I get my Progress bars, I'll do this and post pics.
When I get my Progress bars, I'll do this and post pics.
Also - any updates on longish-term reliability with the OEM endlinks or the PT supplied bushings/brackets? Thanks!
03-04-2009, 02:15 PM
#307
check out this awsomeness
My sway bar braket snapped. It was only a matter of time that these broke cuz the brakets that come with the sways are infamous for snapping. I just didn't think it would be soo soon. The sways were on for 2 months. The best part of it all is that I had no idea that it snapped and I drove my car the entire week with a busted bracket.
My sway bar braket snapped. It was only a matter of time that these broke cuz the brakets that come with the sways are infamous for snapping. I just didn't think it would be soo soon. The sways were on for 2 months. The best part of it all is that I had no idea that it snapped and I drove my car the entire week with a busted bracket.
Energy SUspension Part No. 5113G
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The only problem with the ES parts is that because it's a universal fit with slotted holes you have to center it on the chassis studs before tightening it down fully because you can slide it too far in either direction such that a socket won't have enough clearance between the nut and the bracket if it's slid over too far either way. The bracket mount will also overlap onto the bolt head for the ABS sensor wire locating bracket above the swaybar bushing. You can either let it overlap and then bend down tight when you tighten down the swaybar bushing bracket or you can trim the end off the bracket with a hacksaw or bandsaw.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The only problem with the ES parts is that because it's a universal fit with slotted holes you have to center it on the chassis studs before tightening it down fully because you can slide it too far in either direction such that a socket won't have enough clearance between the nut and the bracket if it's slid over too far either way. The bracket mount will also overlap onto the bolt head for the ABS sensor wire locating bracket above the swaybar bushing. You can either let it overlap and then bend down tight when you tighten down the swaybar bushing bracket or you can trim the end off the bracket with a hacksaw or bandsaw.
03-06-2009, 01:34 PM
#308
"the brakets that come with the sways are infamous for snapping" Really? I mean, there have been 1 or 2 reports on here....but anything more than than? (I'm NOT including people installing the bar wrong/upside-down, breakin endlinks, etc)
Let us know how the install goes....I'm on the fence as to if I should just stick with the PT-supplied brackets or use something else. I'll definitely use a different, teflon-based lube such as "Formula 5", though.
Let us know how the install goes....I'm on the fence as to if I should just stick with the PT-supplied brackets or use something else. I'll definitely use a different, teflon-based lube such as "Formula 5", though.
Last edited by elysium19; 03-06-2009 at 01:40 PM.
03-06-2009, 02:00 PM
#309
"the brakets that come with the sways are infamous for snapping" Really? I mean, there have been 1 or 2 reports on here....but anything more than than? (I'm NOT including people installing the bar wrong/upside-down, breakin endlinks, etc)
Let us know how the install goes....I'm on the fence as to if I should just stick with the PT-supplied brackets or use something else. I'll definitely use a different, teflon-based lube such as "Formula 5", though.
Let us know how the install goes....I'm on the fence as to if I should just stick with the PT-supplied brackets or use something else. I'll definitely use a different, teflon-based lube such as "Formula 5", though.
I just installed the brackets on my car and so far so good. Just don't use the bushings that come with the engery brackets. Use the PT bushings because the energy bushing wouldn't fit when I tried to put everything back together.
Last edited by HockeyRX-8; 03-06-2009 at 04:00 PM.
03-06-2009, 02:27 PM
#310
Just as an FYI we will be happy to send out Replacement brackets if need be, no questions asked to any customer that has purchased Progress Sway Bars from us.
This does happen from time to time and occurs when It is not tightened down securely, or the bolt backs out.
This does happen from time to time and occurs when It is not tightened down securely, or the bolt backs out.
03-26-2009, 12:10 AM
#311
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Okay, so I installed my Progress bars on Sunday and had an extra pair of front brackets on hand from Fluid Motorsports (good vendor). Before the install, I reformed the spare pair so that they'd fit tightly over the first set. Unfortunately, when I got under the car, I realized there was no way they would fit doubled-up due to the bracket studs on the car -- they're way too short. There's basically just enough length to get on one set of brackets and the nuts. So right now the best solution is probably to use the Energy brackets. My setup would have been stronger had it worked, but I don't think I'll be press-fitting in a longer set of bracket studs any time soon.
Re: the issue of bushing bracket strength, why not just double up? That is, you could just get another pair of brackets and run the bolts through the stack of two on each side. I seriously doubt any bar could bust through that much metal. Seems like the most cost-effective solution, and I want my sway bar bracket to have zero chance of breaking while I'm at ten tenths in a corner.
When I get my Progress bars, I'll do this and post pics.
When I get my Progress bars, I'll do this and post pics.
04-20-2009, 08:18 PM
#312
I dunno if I should post this here or on the DIY sway bar install page, but I have a few (hopefully helpful) ntoes about installation.
I just isntalled front and rear progress technology sways. They feel really good, really help with body roll, and the best part is they do not significantly hurt ride comfort nor drivability, which was a big concern for me, as I drive it every day on sorta crappy NY roads.
Things I wish I knew before installing them:
1) removal of the large black plastic undertray is highly advisable. This plastic piece is continuous with the plastic inside part of the wheel well, it all has to come off together. Tricky, but it helps a lot. Remove this (sort of a pain), and the two lower radiator mount brackets (takes 30 seconds each) and you're good to go. Use a small phillips-head screwdriver to take out the black plastic clips, but the truth is they are easy to strip. I just got a dozen from my dealer parts dept because they are the same clips used for door panels and other stuff, and I occationally break them.
2) the new front bar is longer than the old one which makes getting it in VERY difficult. It helps to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and then the other to get the bar back over the steering control arms. Hard to describe, I'm just saying to mess with the steering wheel position to help you get the arms out of the way.
3) This may be obvious for more experienced wrenchers, but I had NO IDEA there was a hex wrench type hole on the back of the endlink bolt. You can't see it without a mirror and you won't see it unless you're deliberately looking for it. I was F%@&ing confused for well over an hour. To loosen it up, use a 5mm allen key and put a thin pipe over the end of the kep to get leverage, and put the end of the pipe against the ground or car frame. Then get a very long 14mm (?) open-ended wrench to turn in the opposite direction. Again, this is probably blindingly obvious to many, but I havnt worked with endlinks before.
4) You REALLY do need to spray everything down with PB-blaster or liquid wrench or wd-40 30 minutes before attempting to take the end links apart.
That's all I got, but I have to say, the PT bars really do a lot for the car. I've been using stock endlinks for a few days now with the new bars, everything fits and feels just fine.
I just isntalled front and rear progress technology sways. They feel really good, really help with body roll, and the best part is they do not significantly hurt ride comfort nor drivability, which was a big concern for me, as I drive it every day on sorta crappy NY roads.
Things I wish I knew before installing them:
1) removal of the large black plastic undertray is highly advisable. This plastic piece is continuous with the plastic inside part of the wheel well, it all has to come off together. Tricky, but it helps a lot. Remove this (sort of a pain), and the two lower radiator mount brackets (takes 30 seconds each) and you're good to go. Use a small phillips-head screwdriver to take out the black plastic clips, but the truth is they are easy to strip. I just got a dozen from my dealer parts dept because they are the same clips used for door panels and other stuff, and I occationally break them.
2) the new front bar is longer than the old one which makes getting it in VERY difficult. It helps to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and then the other to get the bar back over the steering control arms. Hard to describe, I'm just saying to mess with the steering wheel position to help you get the arms out of the way.
3) This may be obvious for more experienced wrenchers, but I had NO IDEA there was a hex wrench type hole on the back of the endlink bolt. You can't see it without a mirror and you won't see it unless you're deliberately looking for it. I was F%@&ing confused for well over an hour. To loosen it up, use a 5mm allen key and put a thin pipe over the end of the kep to get leverage, and put the end of the pipe against the ground or car frame. Then get a very long 14mm (?) open-ended wrench to turn in the opposite direction. Again, this is probably blindingly obvious to many, but I havnt worked with endlinks before.
4) You REALLY do need to spray everything down with PB-blaster or liquid wrench or wd-40 30 minutes before attempting to take the end links apart.
That's all I got, but I have to say, the PT bars really do a lot for the car. I've been using stock endlinks for a few days now with the new bars, everything fits and feels just fine.
04-22-2009, 09:02 PM
#313
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Anyone have sound coming from the rear that is a clunking kind of noise, sort if like two solid pieces of metal hitting one another. Don't hear it in the front but in the back I hear it over most bumps. I installed the progress sways with Auto Exe adjustable end links. Any ideas how to fix this?
04-23-2009, 09:19 AM
#314
Anyone have sound coming from the rear that is a clunking kind of noise, sort if like two solid pieces of metal hitting one another. Don't hear it in the front but in the back I hear it over most bumps. I installed the progress sways with Auto Exe adjustable end links. Any ideas how to fix this?
If this isn't the case it is just the polyurethane bushings. They do tend to be noisy, which is why nearly all OEM's use rubber. (NVH)
04-23-2009, 10:34 AM
#315
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^ Thanks, I'm sure I have it installed the correct way, metal is not close to touching. Maybe I will buy some rubber bushing to see if that will solve it. Very fricken annoying.
04-23-2009, 03:54 PM
#317
Rotary Addict
Mine were very noisy after about 100 miles of driving on them. At first they were great. So I decided to take off the rear bar and re grease the bushings. It seemed to help a lot. You really have to put a lot on them. I had excess grease come out both sides once I drew the brackets tight against the chassis. I'm going to do the front bar this weekend. Has anyone noticed excessive under steer with the front bar at the middle setting on both sides and the rear bar at full soft on both sides. I switched the front from full soft because at full soft all around it seemed that the car had slight overseer but now it is definitely under steering. I think my tires suck or else my struts are beat.
04-23-2009, 04:37 PM
#318
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Haven't noticed the understeer.
In terms of clunkiness, I am going to try a different bushing from Mazda. Used for either Mazda 6 or 3 and has gone through at least 3 evolutions in the design to correct clunking. It has the same diameter as the rear progress sway bar. I can't stand the noise, it has to go!!!!
In terms of clunkiness, I am going to try a different bushing from Mazda. Used for either Mazda 6 or 3 and has gone through at least 3 evolutions in the design to correct clunking. It has the same diameter as the rear progress sway bar. I can't stand the noise, it has to go!!!!
05-21-2009, 05:36 PM
#320
justjim
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I ordered the front and rear Progress sways from Fluid Motorsports on 4-30-09. They still haven't shipped yet. No joy from Fluid, does anybody have any idea how long the back order at Progress is? I have an event coming up in June I'd like to have the bars for.
05-22-2009, 01:26 AM
#322
http://www.ptuning.com/html/search-r...o&cmbYear=2004
to bad it is not the rear. i would lend you mine for sebring!
beers
05-25-2009, 01:58 PM
#323
I know there haven't been many reports, but teamrx8 said the brackets were not made from the best material, which, to me, will only lead to failure in the future. Also, some the people who have had their brackets break were not driving spirited and they broke anyway, such as mine.
I just installed the brackets on my car and so far so good. Just don't use the bushings that come with the engery brackets. Use the PT bushings because the energy bushing wouldn't fit when I tried to put everything back together.
I just installed the brackets on my car and so far so good. Just don't use the bushings that come with the engery brackets. Use the PT bushings because the energy bushing wouldn't fit when I tried to put everything back together.
I don't believe I ever said that and if I did then I misspoke, my intent was to only provide an alternative i.e. the Energy Suspension setup
I had an Energy Suspension bracket break, it was on a less stiff custom bar I built for Stock Class autox
As pointed out by Fluid, you need to get the brackets tightened to the proper torque spec. If it's loose the bracket will flex under load and eventually break due to fatigue.
The OE endlinks are fine
05-25-2009, 03:43 PM
#324
It's been about 2 months now, and the OEM endlinks are working just fine. The brackets supplied rfom progress tech are working fine, although I used Formula Five lubricant rather than the stuff they supplied, per Team's recommendation.
This was 2 months ago, so I don't know who-has-what-in-stock currently, but I ordered them from ptuning.com both bars were $299 shipped, and they came in 4 days. I got Formula Five lubricant from summit racing.
These bars are excellent!
This was 2 months ago, so I don't know who-has-what-in-stock currently, but I ordered them from ptuning.com both bars were $299 shipped, and they came in 4 days. I got Formula Five lubricant from summit racing.
These bars are excellent!
05-28-2009, 01:05 PM
#325
Carbonormous
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Just installed the front (finally had time), rear has been on for some time. Man rusted endlinks suck. Regarding performance, I can't give an objective one since I've only been on the highway. I can say ride is definitely harsher. Expansion joints, potholes, etc rattle the front pretty good.