hella fast shipping!!!

 

bought mine from the ptuning.com as above, they drop ship direct from Progress

 

i ordered mine yesterday, cant wait to get them

 

Does progressive sways use stock end links? Or you have to buy upgraded end link for the front bar?

 

In post 44 it was answered that it uses stock end links.

 

First place I went was www.pttuning.com

Couldn't find any parts for the 8...

 

Thanks Ted, you just answer my question! Probably going to get one pretty soon.

 

don't bother getting the rear energy suspension greaseable brackets/bushings. the universal brackets are just too damn big for the rear. zerk fittings for the front are useful given what a total pita the front is to access, but the rear is super easy to dismount and grease if need be. just use the PT brackets/bushing that come with the rear bar as they fit much better.

 

So the energy suspension bits fit up front? Got a part number? TIA

 

the front ES bracket/bushing part # is 9.5166. you can get them from summit racing. you may also want to get larger front washers for the front sway bracket. the included washers are mighty puny. i got 3/8" washers from home depot. they're much wider and won't come close to settling into the bracket slider hole. the top of the washer used for the lower sway bar bracket hole will need to be dremeled down a bit if you go this route to ensure the bracket sits low on the sliders.

 

HAHAHA so did the install today....and the front was like a total breeze but the rear is being a straight PITA...will attempt again this morning to remove rear...sprayed down w/some liquid wrench so we'll see how that goes...Since I was also installing a CAI, my whole front bumper and front underguard was removed which made it hella more easy to access bar & maneuver ...

From just driving around a bit w/the front bar on full stiff, I can note the difference car is so damn responsive it's scary

 

the PT bars come with urethane bushings, brackets, and some grease

you should figure on replacing urethane swaybar bushings once a year, they wear and get sloppy even when greased, it's a highly stressed part on a car that is driven hard through the turns

not sure what you're problem is in the rear, IMO the rear bar is a piece of cake compared to the front because you have to disassemble the car in the front, the rear is just undoing the endlinks and bushing mounts = very easy

 

Well the problem seems to be that I've managed to strip both bolts connecting the upper end link & sway bar to oblivion so now I have to cut off...
was told its pretty easy though to do

uhmmm What kind of saw is needed to cut a 14mm bolt?

 

hmmm be careful for brake lines and sparks if you go with using a cutoff wheel.

I have done some great stuff with a Dremel and the diamond cutoff wheel.

Gets in tight places.

A sawsall would work but I feel the cutoff wheel would be the easiest.

Another option is a hacksaw. (If you need a workout on your arm this is the best choice).

A grinder with a cutoff wheel would be the most industrial way to cut the bolt.

 

Thanks alot bruh!!! Yeah man, I pretty much came to the conclusion that my rear bar & endlinks were welded on...

BTW damnn that is a stiff front bar...pushed her halla hard through a turn today & there just so happens to be bump midpoint & my whole front end came up off ground

Next purchase will be some adjustable/tougher endlinks

 

get them from AWR Racing, best ones out there

 

No problem.

Wow!
Which springs are you running?

 

Tanabe GF springs over Tokicos...a pretty conservative setup...

 

How much stronger/stiffer are these than the agency bars, it still is beyond me how a tubular bar (PT) is stronger than a solid one (AP), but i'll leave that up to the engineers.

Do you think this merits the 13.4 lb vs. 7lb difference between the PT and AP bars, the PT being the heavier even tho it's tubular...

 

they revised the bar to be solid, didn't know that, previously is was tubular so I suppose now they have the stiffest front bar their price is out of line compared to the Progress bars, looks like Progress is making them for AP since the design details are identical, it's not that much stiffer though, filling in the center section adds a whole lot more weight for a minimal gain in stiffness

I talked to them about the TeamRX8 bars, but they can't bend the thin wall bar that I need, only heavy wall or solid bars

 

Re-read my post, the PT bars (tubular) are 13.4 while the AP bars (solid) are 7lbs ?

Shinronin should chime in here he gave me those #'s maybe his former AP bars were not soild?
Also i've always heard that tubular is better than solid from a strength perspective.....

 

the former AP bars were tubular with a thinner wall, so either the current ones are not solid or they didn't update the weight

 

AP's website says their sways are solid, but i don't see how that can be the case. when a friend and i were installing the PT bars he just held a bar in hand and stood on a bathroom scale. the front PT bar is much heavier than the front AP bar. thus it's not an ultra scientific weight but i don't know how we'll ever get particulars of AP's design. we were pretty surprised at the difference in weight to say the least. there are also differences in welds, construction, and arm design between PT and AP.

 

If you look at the AP website the bar they show now looks exactly like the Progress bar, it use to be different

 

are these now the stiffest production sway bars available now? im thinking about em since you recommended them, but originally i was thinking of going with something not too much stiffer than stock as they may be less "upsetting", or easier to manage? should i just get these and learn to drive with them?

also, i was wondering about the weight difference. the front sway is quite a bit heavier than stock, more than double the weight. you dont seem to be worried about that though, is it simply a sacrifice in weight for such a great improvement in handling?