Sway Bars
03-26-2007, 03:28 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
fwiw, Speedsource makes the same size front bar for GrandAm that is sold exclusively through MazdaMotorsports for 3x the cost of this one
ptuning.com sells the bars for the same price, but with free shipping
.
ptuning.com sells the bars for the same price, but with free shipping
.
hella fast shipping!!!
03-30-2007, 09:26 PM
#58
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don't bother getting the rear energy suspension greaseable brackets/bushings. the universal brackets are just too damn big for the rear. zerk fittings for the front are useful given what a total pita the front is to access, but the rear is super easy to dismount and grease if need be. just use the PT brackets/bushing that come with the rear bar as they fit much better.
Last edited by shinronin; 03-30-2007 at 09:29 PM.
03-31-2007, 12:01 AM
#59
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Originally Posted by shinronin
don't bother getting the rear energy suspension greaseable brackets/bushings. the universal brackets are just too damn big for the rear. zerk fittings for the front are useful given what a total pita the front is to access, but the rear is super easy to dismount and grease if need be. just use the PT brackets/bushing that come with the rear bar as they fit much better.
03-31-2007, 12:21 AM
#60
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the front ES bracket/bushing part # is 9.5166. you can get them from summit racing. you may also want to get larger front washers for the front sway bracket. the included washers are mighty puny. i got 3/8" washers from home depot. they're much wider and won't come close to settling into the bracket slider hole. the top of the washer used for the lower sway bar bracket hole will need to be dremeled down a bit if you go this route to ensure the bracket sits low on the sliders.
Last edited by shinronin; 03-31-2007 at 12:31 AM.
03-31-2007, 01:35 AM
#61
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HAHAHA so did the install today....and the front was like a total breeze but the rear is being a straight PITA...will attempt again this morning to remove rear...sprayed down w/some liquid wrench so we'll see how that goes...Since I was also installing a CAI, my whole front bumper and front underguard was removed which made it hella more easy to access bar & maneuver ...
From just driving around a bit w/the front bar on full stiff, I can note the difference
car is so damn responsive it's scary
From just driving around a bit w/the front bar on full stiff, I can note the difference
car is so damn responsive it's scary
03-31-2007, 10:52 AM
#62
the PT bars come with urethane bushings, brackets, and some grease
you should figure on replacing urethane swaybar bushings once a year, they wear and get sloppy even when greased, it's a highly stressed part on a car that is driven hard through the turns
not sure what you're problem is in the rear, IMO the rear bar is a piece of cake compared to the front because you have to disassemble the car in the front, the rear is just undoing the endlinks and bushing mounts = very easy
you should figure on replacing urethane swaybar bushings once a year, they wear and get sloppy even when greased, it's a highly stressed part on a car that is driven hard through the turns
not sure what you're problem is in the rear, IMO the rear bar is a piece of cake compared to the front because you have to disassemble the car in the front, the rear is just undoing the endlinks and bushing mounts = very easy
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-31-2007 at 11:00 AM.
03-31-2007, 03:26 PM
#63
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Well the problem seems to be that I've managed to strip both bolts connecting the upper end link & sway bar to oblivion 
so now I have to cut off...
was told its pretty easy though to do
uhmmm What kind of saw is needed to cut a 14mm bolt?
so now I have to cut off...was told its pretty easy though to do
uhmmm What kind of saw is needed to cut a 14mm bolt?
03-31-2007, 03:35 PM
#64
hmmm be careful for brake lines and sparks if you go with using a cutoff wheel.
I have done some great stuff with a Dremel and the diamond cutoff wheel.
Gets in tight places.
A sawsall would work but I feel the cutoff wheel would be the easiest.
Another option is a hacksaw. (If you need a workout on your arm this is the best choice).
A grinder with a cutoff wheel would be the most industrial way to cut the bolt.
I have done some great stuff with a Dremel and the diamond cutoff wheel.
Gets in tight places.
A sawsall would work but I feel the cutoff wheel would be the easiest.
Another option is a hacksaw. (If you need a workout on your arm this is the best choice).
A grinder with a cutoff wheel would be the most industrial way to cut the bolt.
03-31-2007, 04:11 PM
#65
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Thanks alot bruh!!! Yeah man, I pretty much came to the conclusion that my rear bar & endlinks were welded on...
BTW damnn that is a stiff front bar...pushed her halla hard through a turn today & there just so happens to be bump midpoint & my whole front end came up off ground
Next purchase will be some adjustable/tougher endlinks
BTW damnn that is a stiff front bar...pushed her halla hard through a turn today & there just so happens to be bump midpoint & my whole front end came up off ground
Next purchase will be some adjustable/tougher endlinks
Last edited by Derex'8; 03-31-2007 at 04:14 PM.
03-31-2007, 10:53 PM
#67
Originally Posted by Derex'8
Thanks alot bruh!!! Yeah man, I pretty much came to the conclusion that my rear bar & endlinks were welded on...
BTW damnn that is a stiff front bar...pushed her halla hard through a turn today & there just so happens to be bump midpoint & my whole front end came up off ground
Next purchase will be some adjustable/tougher endlinks
BTW damnn that is a stiff front bar...pushed her halla hard through a turn today & there just so happens to be bump midpoint & my whole front end came up off ground
Next purchase will be some adjustable/tougher endlinks
Wow!
Which springs are you running?
04-01-2007, 01:27 PM
#69
How much stronger/stiffer are these than the agency bars, it still is beyond me how a tubular bar (PT) is stronger than a solid one (AP), but i'll leave that up to the engineers.
Do you think this merits the 13.4 lb vs. 7lb difference between the PT and AP bars, the PT being the heavier even tho it's tubular...
Do you think this merits the 13.4 lb vs. 7lb difference between the PT and AP bars, the PT being the heavier even tho it's tubular...
Last edited by PoLaK; 04-01-2007 at 02:00 PM.
04-01-2007, 01:49 PM
#70
they revised the bar to be solid, didn't know that, previously is was tubular so I suppose now they have the stiffest front bar 
their price is out of line compared to the Progress bars, looks like Progress is making them for AP since the design details are identical, it's not that much stiffer though, filling in the center section adds a whole lot more weight for a minimal gain in stiffness
I talked to them about the TeamRX8 bars, but they can't bend the thin wall bar that I need, only heavy wall or solid bars
their price is out of line compared to the Progress bars, looks like Progress is making them for AP since the design details are identical, it's not that much stiffer though, filling in the center section adds a whole lot more weight for a minimal gain in stiffnessI talked to them about the TeamRX8 bars, but they can't bend the thin wall bar that I need, only heavy wall or solid bars
04-01-2007, 02:07 PM
#71
Re-read my post, the PT bars (tubular) are 13.4 while the AP bars (solid) are 7lbs ?
Shinronin should chime in here he gave me those #'s maybe his former AP bars were not soild?
Also i've always heard that tubular is better than solid from a strength perspective.....
Shinronin should chime in here he gave me those #'s maybe his former AP bars were not soild?
Also i've always heard that tubular is better than solid from a strength perspective.....
04-01-2007, 03:24 PM
#73
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Originally Posted by PoLaK
Re-read my post, the PT bars (tubular) are 13.4 while the AP bars (solid) are 7lbs ?
Shinronin should chime in here he gave me those #'s maybe his former AP bars were not soild?
Also i've always heard that tubular is better than solid from a strength perspective.....
Shinronin should chime in here he gave me those #'s maybe his former AP bars were not soild?
Also i've always heard that tubular is better than solid from a strength perspective.....
but i don't know how we'll ever get particulars of AP's design. we were pretty surprised at the difference in weight to say the least. there are also differences in welds, construction, and arm design between PT and AP.
Last edited by shinronin; 04-01-2007 at 03:28 PM.
04-02-2007, 01:19 PM
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are these now the stiffest production sway bars available now? im thinking about em since you recommended them, but originally i was thinking of going with something not too much stiffer than stock as they may be less "upsetting", or easier to manage? should i just get these and learn to drive with them?
also, i was wondering about the weight difference. the front sway is quite a bit heavier than stock, more than double the weight. you dont seem to be worried about that though, is it simply a sacrifice in weight for such a great improvement in handling?
also, i was wondering about the weight difference. the front sway is quite a bit heavier than stock, more than double the weight. you dont seem to be worried about that though, is it simply a sacrifice in weight for such a great improvement in handling?
Last edited by scsi; 04-02-2007 at 01:26 PM.