Sway Bars
#101
My concern with adding a super stiff rear sway bar and nice endlinks is this:
The location where the rear endlink is bolted to the tie rod (I think it's a tie rod) is this sort of half assed metal piece that's welded onto the rod. Aren't you guys worried that it'll just snap off?
The location where the rear endlink is bolted to the tie rod (I think it's a tie rod) is this sort of half assed metal piece that's welded onto the rod. Aren't you guys worried that it'll just snap off?
#103
No, the only thing I've seen snapped off are the endlinks themselves, oem & RB, and that was because they installed the rear bar upside down putting the endlinks under abnormal stress/load...
JIC does offer a nice line of replacement suspension links, but unless your trying to build a dedicated track car I wouldn't worry about it...
JIC does offer a nice line of replacement suspension links, but unless your trying to build a dedicated track car I wouldn't worry about it...
Last edited by Derex'8; 05-25-2007 at 09:28 AM.
#106
Yes...please post pics...after my Tanabe nightmare (which is still underway) I'm paranoid as hell about fitment.
#109
hey team, when you say you set the front bar 1 back from full stiff, does that mean both sides are in the middle holes? or did you try using different holes for each side? i ask now because you said on page 4 that to run the rear bar on opposite holes you need adjustable endlinks..so i was wondering if you used same holes or different on the front bar as well.
#110
I'm back to full stiff on the front and full soft in the rear, but understand that my entire setup is unique compared to what most anyone else uses, so your preferred settings may vary
the front bar you can change between all the settings with the OE endlinks; there are three holes on each arm; that equates to five total settings. The rear bar has only two holes per arm, or a possible three settings. The hole positions are such that to run the bar in the middle setting; one link in the forward hole and the other link in the rearward hole, will require the endlinks to be different lengths. So with the OE endlinks you can only run the rear bar full stiff or full soft, or at least without adding a bunch of preload. IMO it's not an issue. I can easily tune for that difference through other settings.
the front bar you can change between all the settings with the OE endlinks; there are three holes on each arm; that equates to five total settings. The rear bar has only two holes per arm, or a possible three settings. The hole positions are such that to run the bar in the middle setting; one link in the forward hole and the other link in the rearward hole, will require the endlinks to be different lengths. So with the OE endlinks you can only run the rear bar full stiff or full soft, or at least without adding a bunch of preload. IMO it's not an issue. I can easily tune for that difference through other settings.
#112
#113
I went to ptuning.com today and they are on "order", which they indicate means that it will send them out as soon as they get word that they're in stock. Did any of you experience this when ordering from them? I know that they are drop shipped so is that standard protocal when something is drop shipped? Thanks in advance.
#115
Yep. I ordered them from one of my distributors, and after a month of waiting I found out that the Progress is out of them. I guess they were making them as fast as they could, but can't keep up.
I ended up cancelling my order for now. I don't like paying people without getting anything....for months.....
I ended up cancelling my order for now. I don't like paying people without getting anything....for months.....
#116
I got mine this past monday. I installed them last night. First I have to say the difference is night and day. There is no role in the car at all and the car feels tight and glued to the road on every corner. Install took about 3 hours on the front. We had an issue dropping the plastic from the bottom so we had to pull it through. Getting the nuts off were a huge pita. All we used was a huge assortment of tools and car jacks. An air gun and a lift would have been wonderful. We ended up taking both front tires off to pull the bar through. We had to take one of the tie rods off because the aftermarket bar arm was too long and couldn't get it over the tie rod. We tried everything to avoid that but the radiator hose would not budge and the bar wouldnt turn. The rear bar took nothing. That took about 20 minutes. I will post pics in about 30 minutes when I get them off my camera. Over all the install was ok and well worth it.
#117
my PT sways are coming tomorrow, I ordered from Ptuning. It took 7 days to become available from Progress, finally shipped on wednesday.
I have a question. Are the softest settings on both front and rear PT sways stiffer than the stocks? TeamRX8? I Assume it is a yes question, just wanted to confirm my initial setting.
thanks
I have a question. Are the softest settings on both front and rear PT sways stiffer than the stocks? TeamRX8? I Assume it is a yes question, just wanted to confirm my initial setting.
thanks
Last edited by got 8; 06-07-2007 at 11:09 PM.
#118
my PT sways are coming tomorrow, I ordered from Ptuning. It took 7 days to become available from Progress, finally shipped on wednesday.
I have a question. Are the softest settings on both front and rear PT sways stiffer than the stocks? TeamRX8? I Assume it is a yes question, just wanted to confirm my initial setting.
thanks
I have a question. Are the softest settings on both front and rear PT sways stiffer than the stocks? TeamRX8? I Assume it is a yes question, just wanted to confirm my initial setting.
thanks
#120
the softest PT settings are way stiffer than the OE bars
I've been wanting to build my own adjustable endlinks, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. The OE endlinks are adequate strength-wise, but a PITA to move between the adjustment holes WRT bolting/unbolting them.
I've been wanting to build my own adjustable endlinks, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. The OE endlinks are adequate strength-wise, but a PITA to move between the adjustment holes WRT bolting/unbolting them.
#121
thanks guys
I will start with front in the middle and soft in the rear or both soft, will decide tomorrow.
I got ss brake lines, clutch line, speedbleeders, ceramic brake pads, pt sways and yellow koni in my garage. I will do them all at the same time so the wheels need to come off once. I almost forgot about the brake fluid and spring clamps.
I will have lots of pics but not much of diy; I think we have planty diy in this club.
wish me luck!
I will start with front in the middle and soft in the rear or both soft, will decide tomorrow.
I got ss brake lines, clutch line, speedbleeders, ceramic brake pads, pt sways and yellow koni in my garage. I will do them all at the same time so the wheels need to come off once. I almost forgot about the brake fluid and spring clamps.
I will have lots of pics but not much of diy; I think we have planty diy in this club.
wish me luck!
Last edited by got 8; 06-09-2007 at 12:27 AM.
#122
thanks guys
I will start with front in the middle and soft in the rear or both soft, will decide tomorrow.
I got ss brake lines, clutch line, speedbleeders, ceramic brake pads, pt sways and yellow koni in my garage. I will do them all at the same time so the wheels need to come off once. I almost forgot about the brake fluid and spring clamps.
I will have lots of pics but not much of diy; I think we have planty diy in this club.
wish me luck!
I will start with front in the middle and soft in the rear or both soft, will decide tomorrow.
I got ss brake lines, clutch line, speedbleeders, ceramic brake pads, pt sways and yellow koni in my garage. I will do them all at the same time so the wheels need to come off once. I almost forgot about the brake fluid and spring clamps.
I will have lots of pics but not much of diy; I think we have planty diy in this club.
wish me luck!
much luck, and you have a long weekend ahead of you..
beers
#124
so I was adjusting the front bar between runs at the autox today and the threads galled up on the OE endlink stud and the nut locked tight with there still being a 1/8" gap between the end link and the bar end. I was using an allen wrench to hold the stud from turning and tried to force the nut, the end of the allen wrench twisted about 90 degrees the nut is seized tight, I'll have to cut the d-mn thing off now
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-11-2007 at 03:29 AM.
#125