two questions: moar low & fender biz
#1
two questions: moar low & fender biz
so i have a couple questions here:
1. i have my rear coilovers maxed out on height, but i still want to go lower. i have bc racing type br coilovers. what would i have to modify to get that stance i'm looking for? and would it be modification to the coilover itself, or the frame of the car?
2. i also have my fenders rolled. i talked to the guy that rolled them and he told me that if i wanted to pull the fenders, he would've had to approach the situation completely differently. does this mean i can't have my fenders pulled because they're already rolled?
any input on this would be nice and thanks in advance!
1. i have my rear coilovers maxed out on height, but i still want to go lower. i have bc racing type br coilovers. what would i have to modify to get that stance i'm looking for? and would it be modification to the coilover itself, or the frame of the car?
2. i also have my fenders rolled. i talked to the guy that rolled them and he told me that if i wanted to pull the fenders, he would've had to approach the situation completely differently. does this mean i can't have my fenders pulled because they're already rolled?
any input on this would be nice and thanks in advance!
#3
1) Different coilovers allow for different adjustability. Much like the Tein Flex, it sounds like the BC's just don't go too low in the rear. Depending on the coilover design, you may be able to remove a perch but without seeing/knowing the design, I can't say or condone this sort of thing.
2) Not sure what he means - rolling the fender lip flat would be the preliminary step prior to pulling regardless.
2) Not sure what he means - rolling the fender lip flat would be the preliminary step prior to pulling regardless.
#4
So you ran out of adjustment and you want to go lower.
You could get a new set of coilovers that has a longer adjustment range. You would have to do some research. Or maybe a custom set of shorter springs. Or you could do a bagged coilover like K-Sports. Not really sure on the drop they allow. Meanwhile back at the research lab.
You could get a new set of coilovers that has a longer adjustment range. You would have to do some research. Or maybe a custom set of shorter springs. Or you could do a bagged coilover like K-Sports. Not really sure on the drop they allow. Meanwhile back at the research lab.
#5
thanks for the input. i don't really want to spend the money on a new set of coils, that's why i was looking for a way to modify the coilover itself for a wider range of adjustment.
and as for the fender work, thanks for the info hahah. i had no idea, just going off the guy who rolled my fenders.
and as for the fender work, thanks for the info hahah. i had no idea, just going off the guy who rolled my fenders.
#7
here are the rears. i've opted to just getting lower coil springs and up the dampening. it's cheaper and from my understanding isn't a downgrade. if i'm wrong, someone please tell me hahah.
#8
So you are going to get shorter springs with stiffer rates and revalve the rear dampers? I don't see how that would be cheaper than selling these coilovers and picking up another set, maybe I'm not quite getting something.
Notice how you have two locking collars? Seeing as you want these all the way down, try removing that top one. This will have the spring perch resting on the bottom locking collar which should be fine, and will give you an additional 15mm or so drop by the look of things.
Or, like I said, you can sell these, and maybe get some Powertrix coils
Notice how you have two locking collars? Seeing as you want these all the way down, try removing that top one. This will have the spring perch resting on the bottom locking collar which should be fine, and will give you an additional 15mm or so drop by the look of things.
Or, like I said, you can sell these, and maybe get some Powertrix coils
#9
So you are going to get shorter springs with stiffer rates and revalve the rear dampers? I don't see how that would be cheaper than selling these coilovers and picking up another set, maybe I'm not quite getting something.
Notice how you have two locking collars? Seeing as you want these all the way down, try removing that top one. This will have the spring perch resting on the bottom locking collar which should be fine, and will give you an additional 15mm or so drop by the look of things.
Or, like I said, you can sell these, and maybe get some Powertrix coils
Notice how you have two locking collars? Seeing as you want these all the way down, try removing that top one. This will have the spring perch resting on the bottom locking collar which should be fine, and will give you an additional 15mm or so drop by the look of things.
Or, like I said, you can sell these, and maybe get some Powertrix coils
#10
Heh, I was just playing around about the Powertrix.
What are your current fron & rear rates? What were you hoping to bump the rear to?
Try removing one of those locking perches and see if you get the heigh desired before doing anything else, though.
What are your current fron & rear rates? What were you hoping to bump the rear to?
Try removing one of those locking perches and see if you get the heigh desired before doing anything else, though.
#11
You know, I was looking at the coils again and realized the top collar is for the height adjustment. I'm not sure that it comes off because when I turn it, the whole shock system turns.
#12
you can't just keep shortening springs or throw bags on it, at some point if you don't shorten the shock body/OAL then you have to be concerned about banging on the bumpstops on small bumps or even during body roll
I have a custom racing setup (12.5" front ride height) on super short tires (23.8" OD) and can barely get a super low profile race jack under it, would not be fun on the street, you will be rubbing and banging on all kinds of street stuff, assuming you don't bust open the oil pan ....
I have a custom racing setup (12.5" front ride height) on super short tires (23.8" OD) and can barely get a super low profile race jack under it, would not be fun on the street, you will be rubbing and banging on all kinds of street stuff, assuming you don't bust open the oil pan ....
#13
you can't just keep shortening springs or throw bags on it, at some point if you don't shorten the shock body/OAL then you have to be concerned about banging on the bumpstops on small bumps or even during body roll
I have a custom racing setup (12.5" front ride height) on super short tires (23.8" OD) and can barely get a super low profile race jack under it, would not be fun on the street, you will be rubbing and banging on all kinds of street stuff, assuming you don't bust open the oil pan ....
I have a custom racing setup (12.5" front ride height) on super short tires (23.8" OD) and can barely get a super low profile race jack under it, would not be fun on the street, you will be rubbing and banging on all kinds of street stuff, assuming you don't bust open the oil pan ....
dlum - I am assuming your main goal is aesthetics, rather than optimal performance - correct? By going with shorter springs, you will essentially be causing the piston to sit farther compressed in the shock body while static. If you factor in going over large bumps, there is a very good chance you could bottom out on the bump-stops.
If you do plan on going with a stiffer & shorter spring, this will further toy with the handling of your car, let alone damper life. While the dampers may be "adjustable,"
a considerable change in spring rates would likely require revalving. That said, I don't know the tolerances BC has on their products, though I assume it isn't the greatest.
Of those three bottom collars, the bottom two should be locking collars while the top is the spring perch. By removing one of the locks, you will be able to drop the spring perch down, lowering the height (while also limiting stroke). If the whole body spins when turning any of these collars, then this design is a bit new to me.
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