Wheel spacers help
#1
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I have 18x8.5 & 18x9.5 +35 off set. I'm going to change my front wheels to 18x9.5 +35
What size of spacers should I get to be more flush?![Scratchhead](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/scratchhead.gif)
What size of spacers should I get to be more flush?
![Scratchhead](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/scratchhead.gif)
![Beer05](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/beer05.gif)
#5
What wheels are you running? Studded spacers won't work with all wheel types.
Hit me up when you decide which size so we can go over those details. We have spacers available.
Rishie
Hit me up when you decide which size so we can go over those details. We have spacers available.
Rishie
#7
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i know this is an old revival thread and all so don't flame hahaha....but I've been looking for some spacers for my 8 now the only problem i have is the whole "thread" deal, i look at some spacers and some of them say "1/2 thread size" and then that messes me up really bad...anyways if ya'll could help me pick out which one is right that would be great I'm looking at getting 25mm spacers, heres the link to the site that i've been trying to get them off of.
http://www.motorcitybolton.com/wheel...l-spacers.html
http://www.motorcitybolton.com/wheel...l-spacers.html
#8
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i know this is an old revival thread and all so don't flame hahaha....but I've been looking for some spacers for my 8 now the only problem i have is the whole "thread" deal, i look at some spacers and some of them say "1/2 thread size" and then that messes me up really bad...anyways if ya'll could help me pick out which one is right that would be great I'm looking at getting 25mm spacers, heres the link to the site that i've been trying to get them off of.
http://www.motorcitybolton.com/wheel...l-spacers.html
http://www.motorcitybolton.com/wheel...l-spacers.html
Our threads are M12 x 1.50 I believe. Some sites list things in metric and some in standard. Also, the hub bore of the RX8 is 67.1, not 74mm. Bigger will work but why not get the exact hub bore size.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 03-12-2011 at 08:42 AM.
#9
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ah i see...thanks for the help...this is honestly the first time i have looked into spacers so its a great help that you gave me the specs.
*edit* i think i remember you getting spacers and posting pics...mind i ask where you got your spacers from?
*edit* i think i remember you getting spacers and posting pics...mind i ask where you got your spacers from?
Last edited by unknown__Disciple; 03-12-2011 at 08:57 AM.
#10
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I got mine previous ones on ebay and craigslist, I had Eibachs and a pair of H&R's as well as generic ones that were good too. The Ichibas I just bought (not on yet) I bought here.
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In case anyone happens to stumble across this thread, I'll add some more info...
For spacers, there there are a few different versions:
One type is essentially a slide on spacer, using the studs already on the car. Pretty basic concept on this one... Anything thicker than 5mm requires replacing the studs of the car to make sure enough thread is exposed to allow for the lugs to tighten properly (I believe 6 full 360 degree turns is typically the minimum?).
The other style of spacer includes built in studs, so you do not need to replace your factory studs with extended studs. The smallest I have seen of this version is 10mm, though I don't believe these had extended lips. Keep in mind that with these spacers, the factory studs still stick through, so may com in contact with the wheel, depending on the wheel's design.
When using spacers, you really want to be sure they are hubcentric, to remove any chance of vibrations. What this means is the hole in the center of the spacer will be ~the same size as the hub they are going on (i.e. 67.1mm in our case). Furthermore, in spacers that are wide enough, you want to make sure there is an extended lip, to serve as the hub for and wheels going on. Without this lip, the entire weight/centerness of the wheel will be placed on the five studs, which may result in vibrations. Furthermore, if the spacers are not hubcentric, and do have an extended lip, they may not fit your wheels properly, if the wheels were designed for our car!
Slip on spacers without extended lips (Anything larger than 5mm will require replacement of factory studs for extended studs. When possible, opt for spacers with extended lips as shown below):
![](https://imagehost.vendio.com/a/3730802/aview/SPAC15mm_620px.jpg)
Slip on spacers with extended lips (require extended studs for proper installation):
![](https://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/suspension/suspension_hr_spacers_lg.jpg)
Spacers w/built in studs, without extended lips (notice, all of the support for the wheels/car is placed on the studs themselves. Ideally you would want a lip as well to help support/center the wheel; see below...):
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa176/hibnah/WheelSpacerExample.jpg)
Spacers w/built in studs, with extended lips (Notice extended lip to help center wheel/provide support):
For spacers, there there are a few different versions:
One type is essentially a slide on spacer, using the studs already on the car. Pretty basic concept on this one... Anything thicker than 5mm requires replacing the studs of the car to make sure enough thread is exposed to allow for the lugs to tighten properly (I believe 6 full 360 degree turns is typically the minimum?).
The other style of spacer includes built in studs, so you do not need to replace your factory studs with extended studs. The smallest I have seen of this version is 10mm, though I don't believe these had extended lips. Keep in mind that with these spacers, the factory studs still stick through, so may com in contact with the wheel, depending on the wheel's design.
When using spacers, you really want to be sure they are hubcentric, to remove any chance of vibrations. What this means is the hole in the center of the spacer will be ~the same size as the hub they are going on (i.e. 67.1mm in our case). Furthermore, in spacers that are wide enough, you want to make sure there is an extended lip, to serve as the hub for and wheels going on. Without this lip, the entire weight/centerness of the wheel will be placed on the five studs, which may result in vibrations. Furthermore, if the spacers are not hubcentric, and do have an extended lip, they may not fit your wheels properly, if the wheels were designed for our car!
Slip on spacers without extended lips (Anything larger than 5mm will require replacement of factory studs for extended studs. When possible, opt for spacers with extended lips as shown below):
![](https://imagehost.vendio.com/a/3730802/aview/SPAC15mm_620px.jpg)
Slip on spacers with extended lips (require extended studs for proper installation):
![](https://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/suspension/suspension_hr_spacers_lg.jpg)
Spacers w/built in studs, without extended lips (notice, all of the support for the wheels/car is placed on the studs themselves. Ideally you would want a lip as well to help support/center the wheel; see below...):
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa176/hibnah/WheelSpacerExample.jpg)
Spacers w/built in studs, with extended lips (Notice extended lip to help center wheel/provide support):
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51IZfofwarL._SS500_.jpg)
Last edited by tiltmode43; 03-14-2011 at 10:16 PM.
#12
I have the ichibas here. If you PM me what size wheel and tire you have we can determine the appropriate spacer setup with minimal work required. Slip on spacers, if greater than 5mm will surely require longer studs to be pressed in. Typically these days people buy studded spacers so it can be reversible and go back to OEM status.
Let me know,
Rishie
Let me know,
Rishie
#15
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Result? Enjoy lower offset goodness!
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#17
![Name: WheelSpacerExample.jpg
Views: 289
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My question with using this style spacer on stock wheels is where does the leftover length of the stock stud go. I cant recall if the stock wheel has space on the backside for those. Anyone have any input?
#18
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