Originally Posted by accorday999t
(Post 4389103)
nice to see everyone again :> long story short my S1 totaled by a GMC a year ago. t-boneed on my driver side and i was sent to hospital :> im getting a S2 and per owner's manual page 8-12 its clearly stated DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OR SEMI- SYNTHETIC OIL OR ENGINE STARTING PERFORMANCE COULD WORSEN :>
CHEERS! |
Originally Posted by skwidd
(Post 4278293)
What a bold statement! How do you suggest measuring the amount drained?
When you take your oil to autozone or checkers you can ask for your bottle back, they will just pour it into their drum in the back and give you the empty bottle.
Originally Posted by accorday999t
(Post 4389103)
nice to see everyone again :> long story short my S1 totaled by a GMC a year ago. t-boneed on my driver side and i was sent to hospital :> im getting a S2 and per owner's manual page 8-12 its clearly stated DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OR SEMI- SYNTHETIC OIL OR ENGINE STARTING PERFORMANCE COULD WORSEN :>
CHEERS! |
Yes Xexok and how lovely is that :>
|
Well using 5w20 is not very good at all IMO but lets not get into an oil debate. Lots of people use synthetic and semi-synthetic without issues. Some swear it ruins engines but I'm not sure if there is any proof of that. I change my oil every 3k miles so I don't bother with a synthetic as it would get very expensive.
|
um, i was using 5w-30 Dino grease and depends on where you live and how you drive owner should consider using different weight.
BTW im not trying to start another oil debate here :> |
^....................good! :)
Changing it is more important than what it is........................at least within the sanity realm. |
Originally Posted by paimon.soror
(Post 4241033)
so this past weekend I changed my oil and decided to go through the driver side wheel well (wheel was off to remove spacers anyway). Let me tell you, it is a lot easier than having to unbolt that sumpguard and such. As long as you dont mind leftover filter oil pissing all over the frame, down the sump guard, and then onto your drain pan.
I placed some shop towel under the filter before loosening it and there was very little mess to wipe up after. Also, I did the double change thing - I worked out I have about ~14% old oil left in the system after that. Here is my math: 6.5qts in engine (capacity is 7 but was 0.5qt down on the dipstick), replaced 4 - now 38% old oil, then replaced 4.5 with the filter - 36% of the mixed oil left, which is 38% old, 0.36*0.38*100%=14%. |
Originally Posted by blu3dragon
(Post 4496613)
I just tried it this way since I had the wheel off already as well. I'm not sure it is any easier - maybe. It was a little tricky to loosen the filter this way. Perhaps I made it harder for myself since the filter was still slightly too hot to handle.
I placed some shop towel under the filter before loosening it and there was very little mess to wipe up after. |
Thanks for the write up. The second gen is definitly easier to change then the first gen by far.
|
Originally Posted by sarula2639
(Post 4540614)
Thanks for the write up. The second gen is definitly easier to change then the first gen by far.
|
You know, I almost wouldn't mind the pan, oil filter location, and so on, if the damn plug was in the right location to drain a front elevated car!
I don't have a:
I do have a floor jack, and I could see the use for purchasing a good set of ramps, but NEITHER will allow me to drain this car properly. Cumon Mazda. Just engineer a drain pan that allows you to drain from the back. It can't be that difficult. So many other cars have a drain plug location that makes some kind of sense... I just spent over an hour changing my oil tonight. It never takes that long on any other car.. not even my lowered 'speed6. |
I don't even bother lowering the car while draining or jacking up side by side either. I just make sure to change my oil every 2k-3k miles and always add fresh oil when it needs it. Even without lowing it to drain you can still get out almost 4 quarts which I know isn't ideal but it is enough to freshen the oil up I think.
|
Originally Posted by 3toedSloth
(Post 4568449)
You know, I almost wouldn't mind the pan, oil filter location, and so on, if the damn plug was in the right location to drain a front elevated car!
I don't have a:
I do have a floor jack, and I could see the use for purchasing a good set of ramps, but NEITHER will allow me to drain this car properly. Cumon Mazda. Just engineer a drain pan that allows you to drain from the back. It can't be that difficult. So many other cars have a drain plug location that makes some kind of sense... I just spent over an hour changing my oil tonight. It never takes that long on any other car.. not even my lowered 'speed6. My question is, has anyone tried other high quality filters on the S2 yet? Like Royal Purple and K&N? |
Just changed my oil for the first time, just realized the jackasses at Lexus replaced the oil and filter before I bought it and used an aftermarket filter . . . anyway, there was absolutely no way to get my filter wrench on the filter, the frame is in the way so when it compresses around the filter as it is trying to spin, the frame just pushes the wrench off the filter, after about 15m of trying, I ended up using the screwdriver method. Messy but effective. I know I have seen specific wrenches that fit on the end of oil filters, or better explanation would be a filter wrench attachment for a socket wrench. Has anyone used one of those on the Mazda OEM filter? And if so, what size and where to get one? I would pay good money for that!
Prophet, you should not use an aftermarket oil filter, the bypass is too low for the S2 and you will be operating in bypass mode most, if not all, the time. You should just order the OEM filter. There is a long write-up about it somewhere. Same about the air filter, the flow from the stock filter is far more than ever would be used. I believe some racing teams use the stock intake as it doesn't get much better that what Mazda designed. |
Bob Booth
Thanks very much for your great article.
Two questions: I saw that you bought a valve adapter ADP-106 and the Fumoto F-106 Engine Oil Drain Valve on the layout of parts. Did you need to use the valve adapter? Wondered it it was too short, too long, etc. I haven't had a chance to start this, yet, but wanted to know where the filter is, driver side, pass side, back, front, top, bottom. I looked around to top, where the old filter was, but didn't see it. Thanks again |
Not sure why you need the adapter, on an S2 the correct Fumoto Valve only seats directly on the Oil Pan drain hole, simple and easy to drain oil, (I have one on both cars, my NC needed the adapter though)
|
Those under cover (under sump shield) bolts - all 7 of them are M8 bolts. I recently returned from having my oil change and found one of them wasn't installed back. Dealer cannot find it so I substituted a M8 x 10 bolt and washer. The M8 x 10 bolt was slightly smaller in length than the OEM.
keywords: under cover bolt oil cover bolts under sump bolts |
My Fumoto no fit :(
Interference with the oil pan ribs. Sucks. |
Originally Posted by acroy
(Post 4751629)
My Fumoto no fit :(
Interference with the oil pan ribs. Sucks. I was about to purchase the Fumoto 106 for faster oil changes for my 2010 GT. Ed |
Originally Posted by wannawankel
(Post 4751842)
More info please - what Fumoto part number was installed on what car MY. Any alterations to the under cover or pan?
I was about to purchase the Fumoto 106 for faster oil changes for my 2010 GT. Ed 2009 RX8 R3 Stock pan etc interference with the valve and the stamped ribs on the oil pan. An extension would be necessary for clearance. The pic below is for reference; not the actual valve but similar enough to show the area of interference. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...eb0d9edf8b.jpg |
EDIT: This is the unit I and others have used and no install issues..
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...-14mm-1-5.html You must use supplied Washer and do not over tight. This pic is of a F106 installed on a Series 2 RX-8. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f5e8c3acb4.jpg |
BTW: For the record, there is NO other brand of 'high quality' Oil Filter around which suits the Series 2 RX-8 technical specs, ONLY use Genuine.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...-ii-r3-188392/ |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 4751978)
EDIT: This is the unit I and others have used and no install issues..
You must use supplied Washer and do not over tight. This pic is of a F106 installed on a Series 2 RX-8. |
ASH8 or others - do you have a standalone parts list for the Series II - I wonder if they had different part oil pans for different markets (not logical).
|
There is only ONE Series 2 specific Oil Pan for all world markets.
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:26 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands