Someone told me that Rotary Premix from Petite is refined ATF. I wish I could track it down so it could be smashed at the source. I thought it was bogus so I only add a little at a time. (like a capful) I was thinking it might help with lubricating mainly, and if it burns it would be a second thing. Glad you said something, attacking bullshit is what forums are supposed to be about. I also know someone at the dealer told service about it.....

Does Petite's contain any of those nasty additives?

 

It is a chicken or egg came first kind of problem..... Coils were not dead, but not good. Cat problem and Ignition problem happened around the same time. I just went the Raceroots and it immediately helped. (4000 miles ago) getting 0420 consistently,..

I tried to pull it and the ****** welded the bolts to the flange and the nuts to the other-side.....

I was thinking CAT because it gets dangerously close to 1750F and hangs around 1600+ around 2-4k.... (I think that is a little high with an Ambient of 50 with highway driving around 70 in 6th. At least based on my summer datalogs)

So far no track time on my watch sadly.. (Sadface...) Can't afford it right now. I bought it was 27k on it, so it could have had a rough life before me, it was also a repo.

 

Since the car is stock yet. I don't have an AFR gauge installed yet. When I put
the new exhaust on in the spring I will install one. I already have it.
My plugs, wires and ignition coils are all brand new. Did them at the end of last year. Just bought the car at the end of last year as well. I'll know the what the AFR is soon.

 

OK, I was thinking you might have a tune doing something to your AFR (since this is the tuning thread). Although stock runs rich I'd guess it should be OK unless something is wrong. btw, you can use the stock o2 sensor to tune AFR for NA. The only limitation is that is won't read rich (I think 11.2 is the richest reading you can get).

 

I just got Mazdaedit loaded on the PC. I'll be putting the new exhaust on
By the end of winter. I have a AFR gauge ready to install also.
I was just asking about the oil injection maps like the original poster on the subject was all.
Mainly was jumping on the thread to see what people suggested.
Maybe I'll jump back to my original coils just to make sure nothing is wrong
With the new set up.

 

Could anyone post up what they have under fan control and under Radiator Fan vs Coolant Temp Sensor Voltage. I'm trying to get my idle temperature down. Input would be greatly appreciated.
I've tried making a few changes but so far my fans are not coming on earlier. Am I to assume speed 1 is high? Being its settings are at the highest temp values?

Fan Control on my 2010 series ii is set as:

Radiator Fan 1 Temp A: 82
Radiator Fan 2 - Vehicle Speed: 10
Radiator Fan 2 Temp: 95

Speed 1 ON 0.58
Speed 1 OFF 0.62
Speed 2 ON 0.58
Speed 2 OFF 0.62
Speed 3 ON 0.53
Speed 3 OFF 0.57
Speed 4 ON 0.45
Speed 4 OFF 0.48

 

I see whats going on.. Still curious how other people have set the voltages up.

 

Mine is identical.

Speed 1 ON 0.58
Speed 1 OFF 0.62
Speed 2 ON 0.58
Speed 2 OFF 0.62
Speed 3 ON 0.53
Speed 3 OFF 0.57
Speed 4 ON 0.45
Speed 4 OFF 0.48

I heard from the Epifan that the other tables are not always listened to by the PCM. It may not let you write that part of the map or may immediately override it. Sometimes there is a EXACT formula to the Thousands place that you must follow. Example
100.0745 versus 100, the PCM says no **** you that doesn't compute.

The only person I know that has really dabbed into this is paimon S. at Normalexception.net (Tuning that table). (He has pretty damned good documentation and some other goodies you will want on that site. There is a formula to follow somewhere, but I can't remember where.

 

Anyone have a idea of how much leaner you can run the car with the cat deleted? (stock other than that) I know the car is fueling for the rear o2 sensor freaking because it is hitting 1750 with the cat. Once it is gone I was looking at how much I can lean it out on the stock system.

I have a fully coated titanium exhaust in mind for when my pockets get a hit deeper. (Thermal coating, not titanium pipe)

 

Don't bother messing with the s2 temps. Your just wasting gas for no added benefit.

thewird

 

How is that? In my experience when it is hot out, the temperature creeps up rather high when the car is at a standstill /in stop and go traffic. The stock fan activation temperatures are just too high...
How is changing that wasting gas?

 

What is rather high to you? The hotter the engine is, the better the fuel economy. Mazda already lowered the temps to good levels on the s2.

thewird

 

Well maybe you know something I don't, but my cruise temperature is usually in the 180s, but as soon as I'm in stop and go traffic in the Texas heat it quickly goes up to 205 or more with minimal fan action to lower temperatures. Also, I'm more worried about engine durability than gas mileage

 

We just set up a digital (user set-able) fan controller along with our electric waterpump (the fan controller can be used independently however without having to mess with the ECU). We were shocked how high Mazda pushed the temps for emissions... there's a reason these engine bays (and these motors) are baked to death, Mazda was forced to crank up the operating temps to meet emissions requirements. No care to the longevity of the motor, they just needed to pass emissions. We're triggering all fans at 175 to play safe

 

Thanks for the input. Just wanted to report back that I've finally gotten around to using MazdaEdit and changing the fan control temperatures based on the following values:

I'm glad to report it makes a good bit of difference. I've driven around in the Houston heat and I get the following average Temps:
- highway cruise: 183
- stop and go: 188-195
- aggressive: usually stays in the 190s, goes periodically up to 200 but generally starts going down as the fan kicks in higher speed.

 

I ended up using this map as well from normalexception. Seems the heuristic for the ignition off fan control is within the math formula listed below in that pic. I was thinking about visiting a friend that works in a local college to see if they can help me understand the formula itself. I'm confused on what values are x and y, and some bits of the formula itself.

I'm also trying to find out what is an acceptable idle AFR catless.. Trying to get somewhat of an economy tune going that's safe. Thinking about taking it further if I go meth injection for the carbon cleaning and octane benefits + heat, detonation. Planning on running wiper fluid at the 35/65 ratio..

 

I hope your running the mishimoto thermostat at the least if you have fan control set that low, stock stat opens at 180, you dont want to push the fans to the point of closing the thermostat while idling in traffic.

 

I hope they are not running Mishimoto anything. Oh, and you don't quite understand how the thermostat and cooling system works.

 

So we actually don't have a mechanical thermostat in our EWP setup, all thermostatic control is done by the EWP controller using a temperature sensor. Instead of the mechanical thermostat we've got what we call a flow plate (basically just a structure with minimum surface area that holds the engine bypass port closed). The thermostat is a massive restriction in the cooling system, and this does away with it.

All thermostatic functions are controlled by the pump controller, which can increase or decrease the speed of the Electric Water Pump as needed based on the temperature sensor, or during warm-up will go into pulse mode which turns the pump on and off every few seconds to allow the coolant to sit in the motor before moving it down the system. Yes it does take a minute or so extra to warm-up a cold motor during the day, and a couple extra minutes at night as compared to stock, but the benefits highly outweigh the extra warm-up time. The controller can run the pump at max RPM even while you're idling in traffic (it's now cooling on demand instead of being tied to motor RPM, which is never optimal), trigger the fans, vary pump speed, give you an instant temp readout and allow you to change the temp set point on the fly. Oh yeah and the best party trick of all... the pump and fans can run after you shut the car down! Ever shut your car off and hear boiling coolant? An EWP keeps running after shutdown to slowly bring the motor temps down instead of boiling/hot-spotting, and will even trigger the fans to run at the same time if the temp is high enough!

 

still waiting on you to release that!!!! Stop teasing me. While you're at it just throw the BBK in with my purchase

 

I have had this idea many times, and I am glad to see I am just not the only one like most other ideas I have. What size motor/type(internals), did you use with what current size? If you are looking to sell this at some point PM me, I may have some other information I have found in search of the electric supercharger cooling methods. (W2AIC, etc)

 

I'm sure there is a thread on this somewhere or this question has been answered a million times,but hey ho...
Is there any real power/torque benefits from having a remap done on my standard 09 R3,I'm being told 15hp and the same in torque,I've also seen plug and play types for sale...
Any advice gratefully received...

 

IMHO, there are some gains to be had, but 15hp is optimistic. Oh, and mazdaedit lets you do everything. I don't think a plug and play is a good option for a car that is reasonably close to stock.

 

I know this defeats the purpose for some, but are there any people here that will street tune/e-tune an S2? I want an S2, but I want a tuning solution for it, and I have no interest in tuning my own cars anymore.

 

It's really not worth tuning an S2 unless there have been serious modifications done to it .