The PCM does control the relay by providing the low current ground to the relay. There should be Ign+ on the other side of the coil to complete the circuit. Don't look for the relay clicking or the pump coming on, it won't because your PCM isn't working. We just want to make sure power is available on that coil side of the relay.

What we are trying to do is split the B/L wire "in half" so it will help us look for which section of wire you might have a break in.

After you check that, I want you to check for IGN+ on the cooling fan relay #5 coil side pins. Should be the smaller ones, same color wire B/L. Still isolating the wire.

PM me your email address, I might be able to send you a PDF copy of what I'm looking at.

 

both have B+ power--with switch on. on one side only (fuel pump and)fan
ETV also has power
wait a minute --fan relay in fuse box i thought--just saw your diagram and see its near the ecu--going out to check again.

Ok power to both relays inside the eps box--black with blue tracer. power to 2 of 3 fan relays in the fuse box-cant remember the wire colors?

I am not having any lucK here.
Jack that diagram you sent was a big help--thanks.

I am wondering if I should just tap into the ign (switch on) fuse power and just run the lines to those two pcm terminals? Maybe that would show something?

 

That was going to be my easy fix solution. If your sure you have power to everything else BUT the TWO PCM terminals, I was going to say you could shortcut it and tap a new IGN + power lead to those two terminals. That would provide IGN+ power to everything in that circuit that might be after the break. So you could just get like a scotch lock t-connector, then run new wire and connect to known good B/L wire, perhaps in the fuse box. It would be easier than trying to find your break in the wire, that's for sure! And you could see if you car starts & has communication with a scan tool.

If it does work, and you don't want that as your permanent repair, you could then find the break in the harness, and remove the wire that you scotch locked teed in.

Like these in case you don't know what I mean:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-S...8923835&sr=8-8

Tap this into the PCM wires, then with that you "TEE" another jumper wires to the B/L wire in the fuse box. No need to cut the PCM wires this way.

 

we call them vampire clips
I have some and I guess that will work?
Worth a shot at this point?
I agreed-- just tap into the normal feed wires without cutting them.
There may be light at the end of the tunnel?
x fingers--tonight I try.

 

ok end of the line for me.
i set up power to the ecu as we talked about and that didnt change a thing.
i have now noticed that I dont have speakers on the stereo and the ash tray and glove box lights are not working. the cigar lighter is working.

with continued problems and mystery's like this i could never sell it to anyone and feel ok about it.even if i put a new ecu in it etc how would i know that it wouldnt blow the new one?
SO this absolutely beautiful cosmetically and mechanically perfect R3 will have to become a parts car.
Just my damn luck.
I am loosing thousands on this deal.

Jack and Ash --man yall are great and if there is every anything I can do to try and help yall out just let me know.
od

 

I'd hate to see it parted out as well

How much did you want to sell the whole car again for?


( Ummm can I buy the R3 lower lip pieces !!! )

 

sitting like it is $9.5K--heres a vid of it when it was running lol
http://contour.com/stories/r32

 

Did you using dielectric grease on the grounds?

 

Maybe sell my racecar and pick this up as a new racecar??

 

It would be a travesty to hack this car up for a race car.

Denny do you have a factory 09+ wiring technical manual or a copy of it?

 

He has a wiring diagram.

I'd rather see it as a racecar than a parts car.

 

All along I was hoping this book would have a happy ending..

 

It will be--I sold the car to a forum member and he is picking it up in august. One condition of the sale was he HAD to let me know what it took to fix it.
I am pretty sure it is a can bus problem--somewhere..

 

Sounds like it, sucks after all that hard work you had to let it go... reason i found this post: i installed a 2011 r3 guage on my 04 to reset the mileage after getting my engine replaced and everything works fine except i have a light on the guage that wont go out. Looks like a security light as if the key i use isn't recognized. car starts and drives just fine but that light wont go out.. its located just below the "E" on the fuel guage, since you had an r3 i was wondering if you still had the manual to let me know what that light means and how to put it out.. i would greatly appreciate it!

 

Our gauge cluster is not a simple thing. It has a bunch if intagrated electronics and even ties in with the can bus. There is no easy answer anyone is going to have to get rid of your light.

 

might want to read this since you just confessed to vehicle fraud...

Federal Odometer statute, odometer rollback, tampering and fraud

 

true--if the gauge cluster fuse is not in the fuse box the ignition key will not even work.
the S2 model has a different can bus system than the S1 model. Glad your swap worked--i was wondering myself.

 

Denny...WHAT A BASTARD!...

Welcome to the modern world of motoring, frankly this is what scares the **** out of me with cars made since 2002 (about), it is a pity we don't yet have an IDS forum expert here.

I am trying to put (purchase) a genuine Mazda IDS system together, (for myself and others.. soon).
But for forums it is almost impossible (obviously) to do any live work 'internationally', apart from giving advice...locally YES, that is my idea, to recoup some investment, anyone will be cheaper than a Mazda Dealer?

Why.....well because I just don't trust (the future) here with Mazda Dealers, the actual floor Mechanics (they are not technicians), I hate the word 'Technician', as it implies they are 'Skilled' and as we know most are not, many just don't have the IQ and more worryingly so many here still have ZERO PC skills..I know I sound arrogant, but it is true...bloody 2 stroke mechanics!

I went to 2 separate Mazda Dealer workshops to plug in my car with their Mazda IDS and get a test and to just see if updates are available.....All I got was a brush off, "oh you don't want to do that"....or "we never do that"... or 'most of the time the car runs worse after'.....WHAT RUBBISH...they just don't know how to....scary.

 

you need to read what you just sent me. it's perfectly legal to alter your mileage as long as you provide documentation in which i have Mazda's documentation of an engine swap they performed stating the mileage and date of replacement. i wouldn't leave that info out if i was selling since a new engine would mean higher value of the car plus im an honest person i have nothing to hide

Maybe Mazda can help me out, I guess its just the cluster that doesn't recognize the key.

 

Hey Olddragger, I was following your post about the Immobilizer or "lock down" issue you were having...Did you find a solution or sell the car? I am thinking I might have the same problem with mine. I got the car with a weak engine, rebuilt the motor, put it all back together, and the motor fired up on the first crank! Sounded great and let it run for a few moments, then shut it down to inspect everything... Now it will not start and the immobilizer light is flashing. It acts like it is firing just not at the right timing to actually run. There is definitely burnt fumes coming out though. Has anyone ever encountered this, like only one set of plugs are firing? I only have one key and one remote as well, and I've checked all the obvious things: battery, plugs, fuel, spark, compression...all is good. Just baffled because I was shocked @ how quick it fired up, and now just light puffs of sweet premix. Does anyone have any constructive thoughts or questions? Please be kind.

 

Hi, Thanks for the VIN Number...I will PM you, However.

You do not have an R3 (Series II) ,but a 2004 MT with Burglar Alarm (Series I), A totally different Key Set Immobiliser System, different CAN, different ECU, and what we call the Renny 1 or Series 1 Engine.

Apart from your Engine Internals (same as Series II) there is very little identical to OD's car electrically.

You really need to post in the Series 1 Section, there are more with 04 experience than here or of frequently look in 04 section...

I suggest it may be something to do with the Immobiliser/related to Burglar Alarm?..

Ash

 

I really do not think it is ever legal to change the mileage of a vehicle. the miles are not just on the motor but rather the entire car, chassis, etc.

But if you are not planning to sell it without telling the potential buyer then I dont see a problem

 

I have sold a number of vehicles with altered mileage due to the car being flooded and original guages would not operate and matching the mileage on the new guage is close to impossible to do. As long as buyers are well informed and know exactly what they're buying. Thanks for your concerns but I will never give false data to potential buyers to secure a deal. Reputation is worth more than those extra pennies.

 

That's the key proximity light. It flashes green when the car detects the key so we can turn the ignition and red when they key is out of range. I'd take it apart and just put black tape between the gauge and the LED lol.

 

Key out of range.. I'll research that thanks! The thought did cross my mind actually.. Might as well do the same thing to the tire pressure led while I'm at it!