Buzzing noise
#1
Buzzing noise
Alright, I have read up but nothing noted for specifically the series 2 people. While accelerating I have a buzzing noise at which it comes and goes and its not always at the same rpm. I'll post more details about exactly how to duplicate it but its like a metallic buzzing noise and its pretty faint. This is a "jumping the gun diagnosis" kinda post. As stated I'll give more specifics but also curious if anyone has came across this as well.
#4
i know you said that you will update the thread more, but since I am here:
any idea on where the noise is primarily coming from?
when did the noise start?
did it happen before mods?
does it happen hot or cold or any time?
by chance is it coming from around the glove box? (search MIAC, marbles in a can)
any idea on where the noise is primarily coming from?
when did the noise start?
did it happen before mods?
does it happen hot or cold or any time?
by chance is it coming from around the glove box? (search MIAC, marbles in a can)
#5
I just got the car about 20 days ago lol.
- Either dash/engine compartment area.
- Noise has always been present since day of purchase but I didn't think much of it then.
- Temperature doesn't seem to matter, just specific rpm ranges tend to make the noise
- Could be mistaken for glove box, for someone not knowledgeable in rotaries I would assume its an engine noise but I'm going to narrow it down closer to dash.
Tomorrow I will update with which rpm ranges I hear it the most, I can say it definitely does it 7k to 9k rpms but only under heavy load. I will get specifics on my way into work (always blasting radio till I hammer it XD).
Noted on MIAC, marbles in a can sound. I almost need a sound reference but I wouldn't say marbles in a can, more like a rpm reverberated metal sound which is feight sounding.
- Either dash/engine compartment area.
- Noise has always been present since day of purchase but I didn't think much of it then.
- Temperature doesn't seem to matter, just specific rpm ranges tend to make the noise
- Could be mistaken for glove box, for someone not knowledgeable in rotaries I would assume its an engine noise but I'm going to narrow it down closer to dash.
Tomorrow I will update with which rpm ranges I hear it the most, I can say it definitely does it 7k to 9k rpms but only under heavy load. I will get specifics on my way into work (always blasting radio till I hammer it XD).
Noted on MIAC, marbles in a can sound. I almost need a sound reference but I wouldn't say marbles in a can, more like a rpm reverberated metal sound which is feight sounding.
#6
#7
Whats funny is I just looked up more MIAC things via seach and found the same video after about 20 minutes lol. I'll have to look into that tomorrow on my drive in.
-Do you think that is more so an issue with the coolant not being bleed fully which is why some people don't have that noise?
Granted I'm unsure how the previous owner has driven the car but I give her a good sprinted run most of the time. Car isn't fun till you hear some tire noise or 9k .
-Do you think that is more so an issue with the coolant not being bleed fully which is why some people don't have that noise?
Granted I'm unsure how the previous owner has driven the car but I give her a good sprinted run most of the time. Car isn't fun till you hear some tire noise or 9k .
#8
that's a good question. I don't have the noise and I dont have the restrictor installed so I really am not too sure what exactly causes it. If there is air in the cooling system, it would make the gurgling noise throughout the rpm band. If you want to rule this out just open the rad cap, turn on the car, and get her nice and warm. If you can get to them, a good squeeze or a tap here and there on the rubber hoses will help burp the lines. As the car heats up the coolant should start to expand ... once you see the coolant level start rising, you can go ahead and close off the cap.
#9
Gotcha, I'll try to verify the noise and location tomorrow .
Side question, I'm unsure if I can actually hear my Shift beep/buzzer......Should it be noticeable with my radio around the volume level 12 roughly?
I just read up more on it and it appears that if someones willing enough they can "rig" a way to make it quiet. Removing the cluster isn't difficult but more of a hassle to most people.
-Double side note lol, my exhaust doesn't seem to be that loud to me considering I had basically strait pipes on my 240 with an SR swap.....is that enough to make the beep/buzz unnoticeable?
Side question, I'm unsure if I can actually hear my Shift beep/buzzer......Should it be noticeable with my radio around the volume level 12 roughly?
I just read up more on it and it appears that if someones willing enough they can "rig" a way to make it quiet. Removing the cluster isn't difficult but more of a hassle to most people.
-Double side note lol, my exhaust doesn't seem to be that loud to me considering I had basically strait pipes on my 240 with an SR swap.....is that enough to make the beep/buzz unnoticeable?
#10
Lololol. The beep would be hard to hear if you are driving around with your windows open or with the radio playing, but you are right, it would be far too much of a hassle to try and disable it via hardware modifications, and I wouldn't think someone would do that.
You could surely just test it out by sitting in neutral and giving one good rev up to redline, windows closed, radio off.
You could surely just test it out by sitting in neutral and giving one good rev up to redline, windows closed, radio off.
#11
Yeah it's just quiet to me and apparently the exhaust is louder then I thought as well but not like the strait exhaust I had on my Nissan lol.
On my drive in it is near the glovebox area. Hard to drive and position myself near the passenger side with those badass recaros :-p. would my warrantee cover the repair of that or is that a 3/36 deal?
On my drive in it is near the glovebox area. Hard to drive and position myself near the passenger side with those badass recaros :-p. would my warrantee cover the repair of that or is that a 3/36 deal?
#12
I am not sure under what warranty that falls under or if it even does since there was no TSB or anything about it, but for sure it is worth a shot. If you dont want to go through that hassel though, the part is like ~$10 shipped to your door:
ORIFICE, HEATER HOSE. HEATER. Mazda RX-8 (2004 - 2008) # F10061E09
And the install takes no more than 20 minutes (including topping off the coolant and burping it)
edit: stupid question, but your coolant level is topped off currently right?
ORIFICE, HEATER HOSE. HEATER. Mazda RX-8 (2004 - 2008) # F10061E09
And the install takes no more than 20 minutes (including topping off the coolant and burping it)
edit: stupid question, but your coolant level is topped off currently right?
Last edited by paimon.soror; 05-02-2013 at 11:52 AM.
#16
Incoming double post lol, I think I'm going to do a how to install the MIAC restrictor with pictures and such. I haven't looked really well yet if there is one (on my phone and at work) but if there's not a MIAC sticky with a how to I would gladly do it if it gets a sticky for s1 and s2).
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