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Engine mount change, where to jack ?

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Old 03-03-2016 | 11:04 PM
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Question Engine mount change, where to jack ?

Hi,
I need to change the engine mounts on my car.
I did read the DIY thread for Serie I, but I couldn't figure out where to put the jack to lift the engine up on the Serie II.

Can somebody point me out on this pic ?
View image: rx8 where hold up

If I remove the metal plate in the front, there is the oil pan. Is it safe enough to jack on the oil pan with some piece of wood ?

Thanks
Old 03-04-2016 | 12:06 AM
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Yes, just go slow and only as far as you need to. Get as wide a piece as possible to spread the load around.

Silly question, why do you need to change thr mounts? I thought the S2s had gotten over that problem.
Old 03-04-2016 | 09:00 AM
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I did this recently to remove and fill my stock mounts:
Remove the aluminum tray,
Place a nice block of wood (I used a 2" thick piece about 12" square) under the oil pan and lift, carefully carefully.
Piece of cake.
Old 03-04-2016 | 12:40 PM
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Yeah a 2 x 4 across the pan in the way I do it. Easy. Just make sure you clean the threads and bolts when reassembling.
Old 03-04-2016 | 04:41 PM
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Thanks a lot!
Old 03-06-2016 | 07:49 PM
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Alright, engine mounts changed, I cannot say it feels very different from before, the side mirrors are still shaking a little in idle... maybe the new engine mounts are defective, or maybe I was expecting too much. Anyway the work is done, I will leave it as it is.
Old 03-07-2016 | 02:43 PM
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Here is the engine mounts I bought
Trans Engine Mounts MK062A MK063A M757 for 04 11 Mazda RX8 New Pair Auto | eBay

brand is MotorKing.

Are the mounts going to soften and reduce shaking ?
Or is it because it is defective or bad quality mounts ?
Or another reason ?
Old 03-07-2016 | 03:23 PM
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You will always have some shaking, especially stopped in D with an automatic. Your engine could be not 100% which causes it to vibrate more at idle. Care to make a video to judge the amount of shaking?
Old 03-08-2016 | 05:45 PM
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I am not sure a video can render it.

I have been using the car for quite a few years, so I know how it was, and I know when something is not right.
When you have to remove your elbow from the door because of the unpleasant vibrations going through your body, you know this is not right.
Maybe the new mounts are too stiff, or maybe they are defective, I don't know...
Old 03-08-2016 | 05:51 PM
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Have you cleaned your air filter, MAF and ESS, followed by the NVRAM reset? What are the conditions of your coils/ plugs?
Old 03-09-2016 | 12:28 AM
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Coils, wires, plugs are brand new, installed a week ago.
Air filter is a little dirty now. MAF, ESS, NVRAM no clue what it is, I will need to google it
Old 03-10-2016 | 03:30 PM
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Okay, MAF cleaned (it was not really dirty), ESS was also clean, but I tried to clean it more just in case using a rag, overall it's same as before. Car is still shaking.
I didn't reset the NVRAM but I don't really think it can make any change
Old 09-20-2016 | 08:52 PM
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The NVRAM makes a large difference in idle quality, at least, it did for me. My car's a 6spd and has ~58K on it now.
Old 09-21-2016 | 07:36 AM
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You may want to investigate engine bay grounding.

I have recently made an engine bay grounding kit for my 54 plate car and the difference has been staggering especially as I have a recently rebuilt engine (LCRotaries). The idle and power delivery is much much smoother, exhaust is less sooty and MPG has increased noticably.

Although the idle is less choppy I still have some gearstick vibration so I think I now need to refurb my engine mounts. I have a couple of spares off a donor car but I didn't mark them for side, does anyone know how to tell them apart? I'd like to refurb those and then fit them rather than taking the car out of action while the PU is curing, etc.
Old 09-21-2016 | 11:08 AM
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