beasted

As I've just paid up my renewal I will post my issue as it's too of the list.

Basically I'll start off with my first incident involving a water flood a few months back.

Was driving to work and drove slowly through a semi deep puddle but as I went through I revved the engine which I think caused the aem induction to suck some water up, god knows how much but it died.... I pushed her out the puddle and went to my mums for a bit came back and thought I'd tow the car to my mums instead of drive, but I decided to try see if she would start when being towed so I bumped her and she started, blew out clouds of white smoke, that went after a drive and all was fine, but on colds starts a few days after she made squealing noises but only on cold starts and disappeared when hot. Apart from that all was fine.

Anyway today filled up petrol all was fine and then all of a sudden the engine lost all power started missing terribly and would not go above 3.5k revs, cel light was flashing too. went home as I was basically there anyway, rang Mazda got booked in for a 30mimute check which I guess will be diagnostics. Drove her like this for approx 10miles to Mazda dealership on the way traction control light came on and stayed on...... ? Have left her at Mazda Farnham common now racking my brains and reading all sorts on the forum and Internet what it could be... Car has done 34k now and is overdue coils. Full service including all majors and is well maintained always, service is due end of jan and guess what coils were booked to be done. Just my luck if it is them..... Anyway thanks for reading just want some advice and to hear if anyone has had that problem disregarding the flood as that was just a issue a while back.

Luke

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Driving through deep water with an aftermarket intake that has a low mounted pickup point can indeed ingest water into the engine in large volumes. I only know of 1 case where it did NOT destroy the engine. Yours might be a 2nd, but it's unlikely. The internal pressure of being unable to compress the water in the engine is significant when it has the momentum of the drivetrain behind it, and that pressure has to go somewhere. For most people, it cracks the block, for yours it likely damaged one or more seals that finally let go.

Your only real hope at the moment is that your engine is fine and the problem is water contamination/damage in wiring, grounding points, and/or belts.

beasted

So you don't think it's the coils, I dropped it to a Mazda garage first thing he said was coils.

I didn't suspect the water as it ran fine apart from the tweeting after water incident.

Thanks bud

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, it COULD be coils, along with a number of other possibilities. I guess it depends on if this problem is directly related to running through deep water or if it's just a coincidence.

beasted

Well she has done 34k too now and never had coils changed. That's why I was swaying toward coils gone. I guess I can only try, but Mazda are running diagnostics so should here bk by Tuesday.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, if you are at 34k on original coils, then yes, change them out anyway. It's regular maintenance that is needed.

xexok

If you are mechanically inclined at all consider replacing the coils yourself. You can get an oem set for a bit over $200(not sure about at your location though) or just go with aftermarket ones for less than that. Installing them is really easy and you will save a ton of money because Mazda charges an arm and a leg to install plugs and coils. Be sure to find out how much they are going to charge you and decide if that is worth it to you for a pretty simple job.

beasted

Thanks xexok.

I'm in the uk, was going to get oem ones but hear some after market ones are slightly cheaper and better in terms of life time and reliability.

I've seen so many it's hard to pick the best ones for the best price that are reliable and safe.

xexok

Well I know autozone or checkers/o'reillys(out here, not sure what you have) sells their house brand of coils with a 'lifetime' warranty. I'm not sure how you have to prove it failed to get them to replace it though. I went with oem the last time I changed them because it just seemed like a better idea but lots of people have had good luck with the cheaper ones.

beasted

Yea I'm thinking just genuine ones and not aftermarket ones now but I'm seeing the b series ones and have seen a c series too in the serial codes.

xexok

Go with the latest revision you can find and you will be fine.

beasted

Found the c series off rx8 uk member, genuine oem coils from jp4mance done 2100miles and red magnecore leads for £180-

beasted

Quick update guys. Mazda Farnham common just rang me said they have done a diagnostic test and compression test and they say my rotor tip/seal on 4 has gone.

I'm not exactly happy with their assumption so she's going to Hayward's rotary tomorrow!!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Huh?

That doesn't even make sense. "4" what? Rotor #4?

beasted

Yea obviously the service person doesn't even know the engine. Maybe I heard wrong lol. My bad. Either way he said the tip/seal on the rotor.

beasted

Rotor 1

692
692
706

Rotor 2

657
0
0

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Ah, yeah. That would certainly suggest a completely missing apex seal on rotor 2.

beasted

I actually dunno what to do?

poacherinthezoo

Have the engine rebuilt or put a new/reman engine put in. That's about the extent of your options with those compression numbers.

logalinipoo

With those zeros on rotor 2 I would expect some major damage. At least a rotor housing and rotor, quite possably an iron or two also. The reman would probably be the best bet.

Good luck

smokindrifter

Depending on what you do with the car and if you are a Mazda diehard or not but I'd seriously think of an engine swap.

Either a Rx7 FD turbo motor or a LS V8

beasted

What's a reman engine?

CRO8TIA

Remanufactured, does not contain 100% new parts.

beasted

Oh I see, well I'm getting her recovered by the end of this week and as far as I can see it will be reconditioned. Relying on warranty to pay out, let the battle commence.

beasted

Update! My r3 is now at the specialist rotary revs.

Calling my warranty company today so gingers crossed from here on out.

Whilst she gets rebuilt is there any oil lines or extra parts I can add to prolong life or upgrade whilst shes in bits?

Many thanks.