Flashing CEL and Grinding Noise and Power Cut
02-03-2015, 03:38 PM
#1
Flashing CEL and Grinding Noise and Power Cut
So as of yesterday my engine light came on, I was driving to Toronto and back. On the way back I tried to accelerate on the highway and I heard a grinding noise. I backed off and pulled over and my car died when I stopped it. Hunted for an idle first. It started back up a little rough and then I tried to drive it again and anytime my foot compressed the pedal past a certain point (at least that's what it felt like, didn't FEEL RPM related but I could be wrong and pushing the pedal down does cause the rpms to go up but when I engine braked in 2nd the rpms went up and there was no hesitating) there was a bad grinding noise (fast and changed in pitch depending on the gear I was in) and the engine light would flash (yet surprisingly not stay on afterwards). Today I went and filled up on fuel and it seems to have improved it a bit, as well I went through a heavy duty car wash to try and clean any crap that may have gotten underneath the car.
So! In short.
SYMPTOMS
1. Flashing Cel
2. Grinding Noise
3. Dies at Idle
4. Hunts for Idle
POSSIBILITIES?
1. Fuel pump/pressure?!
2. ESS needs a clean bad and is causing the ECU to think my car is misfiring..
3. Something causing back pressure in the exhaust system (cat?)
4. A problem in the ignition (Harness, Plugs, Coils (BHR), Wires (BHR))
5. ????????
As a side note my engine has less than 50000 miles but it is an engine I bought so it's not covered by warranty and I can't take it to Mazda. The engine itself IS under warranty though so if it turns out to be a problem with that it's not the end of the world.
Transmission has been revamped recently with new clutch and flywheel.
Relatively new coils, plugs, wires.
**Coolant has been overflowing and spilling everywhere to the point where it damaged my power steering (getting a new harness because cleaning didn't work)
Please help
EDIT : The weather has been super awful (40-50 cms of snow recently and driving has been bad, I've tried to minimize but I had to drive a fair amount on the day it happened and it was a struggle to say the least)
So! In short.
SYMPTOMS
1. Flashing Cel
2. Grinding Noise
3. Dies at Idle
4. Hunts for Idle
POSSIBILITIES?
1. Fuel pump/pressure?!
2. ESS needs a clean bad and is causing the ECU to think my car is misfiring..
3. Something causing back pressure in the exhaust system (cat?)
4. A problem in the ignition (Harness, Plugs, Coils (BHR), Wires (BHR))
5. ????????
As a side note my engine has less than 50000 miles but it is an engine I bought so it's not covered by warranty and I can't take it to Mazda. The engine itself IS under warranty though so if it turns out to be a problem with that it's not the end of the world.
Transmission has been revamped recently with new clutch and flywheel.
Relatively new coils, plugs, wires.
**Coolant has been overflowing and spilling everywhere to the point where it damaged my power steering (getting a new harness because cleaning didn't work)
Please help
EDIT : The weather has been super awful (40-50 cms of snow recently and driving has been bad, I've tried to minimize but I had to drive a fair amount on the day it happened and it was a struggle to say the least)
02-10-2015, 09:37 PM
#2
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Any codes associated with the CEL?
You stated you filled up with gas afterwards with a possible improvement. Were you low on fuel when the issue happened, and if so how low?
I would not expect engine braking to be associated with hesitation, since the engine is not actively producing power (or trying to) and sending it to the wheels (effectively the reverse is occurring, with the wheels supplying the energy to continue moving the engine components).
Grinding noise that changes with gear selection, along with the recent clutch and flywheel, makes me suspect a transmission related issue. What clutch, flywheel, and counter weight were installed recently (and why were they replaced? Simply worn out, wanted a lighter weight flywheel/etc?)? However, since a "grinding noise" is an overarching term this is merely a guess. Did the pitch increase or decrease when going to a lower/higher gear? Is the grinding noise present when the engine was running but not in gear?
None of the classic signs of ignition or cat related issues are present, so far as I can tell.
Coolant overflow is interesting, and suggests that more may be at play that just the transmission. Have the coolant temperatures been normal (180-205 F)? Hot air coming out the vents? Any other signs that might indicate a clogged radiator or thermostat? Thinking out loud here - Could dislodged silicone from the seals cause a grinding noise if they became logged in the water pump? (This is after all a rebuilt engine, albeit not a mazda reman).
Wish I could be of more help. Have to wait and see what the more mechanically educated members have to say. Best wishes for a speedy and painless resolution.
You stated you filled up with gas afterwards with a possible improvement. Were you low on fuel when the issue happened, and if so how low?
I would not expect engine braking to be associated with hesitation, since the engine is not actively producing power (or trying to) and sending it to the wheels (effectively the reverse is occurring, with the wheels supplying the energy to continue moving the engine components).
Grinding noise that changes with gear selection, along with the recent clutch and flywheel, makes me suspect a transmission related issue. What clutch, flywheel, and counter weight were installed recently (and why were they replaced? Simply worn out, wanted a lighter weight flywheel/etc?)? However, since a "grinding noise" is an overarching term this is merely a guess. Did the pitch increase or decrease when going to a lower/higher gear? Is the grinding noise present when the engine was running but not in gear?
None of the classic signs of ignition or cat related issues are present, so far as I can tell.
Coolant overflow is interesting, and suggests that more may be at play that just the transmission. Have the coolant temperatures been normal (180-205 F)? Hot air coming out the vents? Any other signs that might indicate a clogged radiator or thermostat? Thinking out loud here - Could dislodged silicone from the seals cause a grinding noise if they became logged in the water pump? (This is after all a rebuilt engine, albeit not a mazda reman).
Wish I could be of more help. Have to wait and see what the more mechanically educated members have to say. Best wishes for a speedy and painless resolution.
Last edited by poacherinthezoo; 02-10-2015 at 09:57 PM.
03-02-2015, 07:19 PM
#6
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Hey sorry to revive this thread but my R3 just did the exact thing on the ride home. Haven't tried to restart it yet. Should I just leave it for now until I can troubleshoot possible fuel pump failure? Or is it ok to try and start? BHR coils and brand new plugs really recently. I have a timing light that I will test them with if I start her again. No issues starting, driving ect. Been a beauty until 20 minutes ago. Thanks, Lachlan
Also wanted to add that I was enjoying some spirited driving with a very low tank before it happened. Then I filled up, the incident didn't happen until an hour after I filled up though. And the car had been shut off in between.
Also wanted to add that I was enjoying some spirited driving with a very low tank before it happened. Then I filled up, the incident didn't happen until an hour after I filled up though. And the car had been shut off in between.
Last edited by Shumster; 03-02-2015 at 07:52 PM.
07-03-2015, 11:17 PM
#7
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I have an 09 sport and I have a p2259 p0302 and the code for the O2 sensor(probably from no car) and also for the abs, and a 0300(random misfire), could either the 2259 or the other two codes be causing the misfire?
07-03-2015, 11:33 PM
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About 10k miles ago, could the faulty O2 sensor cause it?
When it first started it was between 8-9k rpm, there was a jolt in power, then it got worse the next day, that's when it started misfiring miserably
When it first started it was between 8-9k rpm, there was a jolt in power, then it got worse the next day, that's when it started misfiring miserably
07-03-2015, 11:36 PM
#10
Driving my unreliable rx8
yeah, if you're running lean it could easily cause missfires. Maybe if it's running too rich also. So the front/wideband 02 sensor could cause it.
The rear/narrowband 02 sensor would not cause it.
The rear/narrowband 02 sensor would not cause it.
07-04-2015, 05:32 AM
#13
Recommend you don't drive it until the front O2 sensor is fixed, hopefully the cat converter isn't damaged. You could unplug the front O2 sensor if it's bad. The car will just run open loop fueling and throw a code or two, but it will allow you to see if the misfiring stops. Getting to the connector and unplugging it at the the top rear of the engine is a bit of a chore though. Unless you know what you're really doing then not driving it is likely the best option.
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