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If the crud is from oil, that really makes me want to switch to a low-ash synthetic oil once the warranty is up.
I use nothing but Top Tier fuel, usually Shell or Exxon/Mobil. Any reason to think I should periodically use an add-in fuel system cleaner or something?
So concentrated Techron actually works in our cars?
I recall ChrisFix tried concentrated Techron and used borescope cameras to see if the concentrated Techron did anything. He found almost no difference after 2 bottles. Do REs see more benefits?
For comparison, I changed my plugs every June, when I was tracking my car heavily. This is how they looked in 2016, after 1 year of mixed use, including 18 track days.
Mobil 1 0W40 changed every 3,000 miles and Lucas Semi-Synthetic 2 Cycle oil premixed at 0.5 Oz per gallon on the street and 1.0 Oz per gallon on the track. Top Tier 93 octane always.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 07-19-2017 at 09:02 PM.
I can assure you those plugs are fine the first time i changed mine at around 70k miles (bought my r3 at 66k) they looked just like everyones in this thread no idea how long it has been since they were last changed before i took owner ship however i did notice really low power down low in the rev range, however this could've been attributed to my cat going bad or a combo of both at the time.
so once i changed them i put around 10 miles on them and inspected them out of couriosity and surely they were ashy but are functioning perfectly.
How ever i did cross thread my trailing on the rear rotor housing no its sitting at 15-20 degrees downwards. Has this happened to anybody its such a bitch to get to since the firewall forces to to go in at a slight angle. Also tapping it didn't work is there a known fix for this or am gonna have to pull the motor?
Those plugs look like good firing, and I'd just put em back in.
Shell and Exxon are Top tier, and I'm more in the Chevron Texaco with Techron.
My plugs had almost non of that tan deposit at 32k miles.
I think using a PIB type FD smokeless premix, the Mobil 2T I use helps burn up that leftover combustion to keep that crap off, but you going by the book might go just as far.
I can assure you those plugs are fine the first time i changed mine at around 70k miles (bought my r3 at 66k) they looked just like everyones in this thread no idea how long it has been since they were last changed before i took owner ship however i did notice really low power down low in the rev range, however this could've been attributed to my cat going bad or a combo of both at the time.
so once i changed them i put around 10 miles on them and inspected them out of couriosity and surely they were ashy but are functioning perfectly.
How ever i did cross thread my trailing on the rear rotor housing no its sitting at 15-20 degrees downwards. Has this happened to anybody its such a bitch to get to since the firewall forces to to go in at a slight angle. Also tapping it didn't work is there a known fix for this or am gonna have to pull the motor?
Should be changing plugs by pulling the driver's side tire and opening the little rubber flap to get at them. Makes it very easy to access with a long enough extension and universal joint. Just ensure you start them by hand then tighten with a ratchet. If it is cross-threaded you will need to pull the whole motor.