A steady oil light, even if only on for a second or so, is low oil. A flashing oil light is an OMP fault, which can happen even with full oil.

I don't think the OMP has a problem, I think you have something electrical that is affecting both the ignition AND the OMP. Typically, grounding problems are what cause electrical issues in multiple systems.

Hmm, this changes my mind a bit. If you are getting blue smoke with heavy bogging, it points a finger at something dumping oil into your intake at high RPM. I can't think of anything electrical that would do this. A vacuum problem could...



Sorry if this is confusing you, just thinking out loud for directions to investigate down.

 

Hmmm it has only flashed this one time over this whole period of events :/ I can check all the grounds and see what maybe the issue is. Do they by chance ground out to the negative battery post? I know I need a new battery and battery clamp for the negative terminal because its loose. Still tight, just loose. Yep blue smoke, hasn't been as bad but it'll come out. Oil still ends up in the intake when that happens. I'm switching out my CAI all back to stock to see if that helps the issue perhaps.

 

All grounds go to the negative battery post. Either directly or to the chassis and then through the cable between the chassis and the negative post. If that isn't 100% secure and making 100% contact, all sorts of issues could show up. Typically not this, but anything is possible.

 

Thinking out loud here, what happens if the crank case vent is not routed back through the intake?

Cap off your intake and just route that hose into an oil jug for now and secure it next to your windshield washer tank, until your catch can arrives.

 

Yeah. I'd even go a step further just for testing, and use clear plastic hose, run it out from under the hood, zip tie a loop to your windshield wiper arm, then back in to the tank or intake. That way you can actively see if it's spitting oil, and when, while driving.

Pure testing of course, but would give you a bit more information than you have. I did that on my coolant overflow while I was hunting for my coolant dump problem.

 

I'll have to make sure that clamp is on tight. Might be causing ground issues or shorts. I'm going to try out that test with the plastic hose.Hopefully that will yieldsome results

 

Okay, so heres an update. Took off the UIM, the intake was soaked in oil and the valves were all caked up. Cleaned everything I could, reassembled and ran some seafoam to help throw some oil out. Car ran fine for several days, still misfiring above 5k rpms, but I was able to launch and hit redline no problems. Last few days though the issues have been coming back. Bogging if I hit it over 5k rpms and spitting oil. My intake is filled with oil again. Soooo, im thinking injectors or maybe OMP. Gonna reclean it all again sunday, and install a catch can and go from there. Not sure what else there is to check at the moment. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

 

Didn't I mention catch can weeks ago

 

You did but I had to wait for it to arrive. Most recent update, cleaned intake again, installed catch can, andadded some seaseafoam. Oil light coming on andflashing so added some oil to proper level. Still getting smoke out of the exhaust under power around 8/9k although its not as frequent. Misfires still occurring though at 5k rpms and up. I'm beginning to think maybe OMP or ecu :/

 

The advice give about MOP is completely incorrect/oil levels, this is a Series II, they are not the same MOP's/ set up as Series I..

Plus what I see/hear from the video is there any an actual engine misfire?, or just the flashing CEL light, is this correct?

Can you actually FEEL an engine misfire @ 5000 RPM?

 

P0302 DTC is actually REAR Rotor Misfire, P0301 is Front Rotor.

So according to OP his first post title is P0302, so I would be first looking at Rear Rotor Ignition, perhaps there is an issue with Coils/Wires or Plugs, do you have the leading and trailing connections correct, although this should not count for the 5000RPM flashing CEL.

Also why do you have a constant CEL on?

Oil Light
Illuminates when engine oil level is the specified value or less (low oil level).
Oil Light Flashes ONLY when a malfunction in the oil supply control occurs, ANY one of these ONLY, can be EMOP's, circuit high or low EMOP #1 or #2 , EMOP Oil Pressure high or low, Oil Control Valve circuit high or low, DTC codes P1680,P1681,P1682,P1683,P1684,P1685,P1686 and P1687.

I would be getting tester/gauge to read codes when you see a 'flashing oil light', you should be able to pinpoint this issue.

 

This should not be happening in a 2009, are you certain you are not overfilling with too much engine oil..?

Again there are TWO electronic MOP's they are not known for problems at all (unlike Series 1)...these both sit on top of engine 'barrel' under black air intake boxes on right side of engine (exhaust/intake).

I would also be checking that you have vac lines to Solenoids connected correctly for VDI and SSV and their electrical connections (there are 3 solenoids which are identical as a part and all 3 mounted together)..

I also have no idea why you think you need an oil catch can in a Series II, just not necessary.

 

NO NO NO!!!

A FLASHING Oil Light does not mean engine needs MORE oil....You are overfilling, no wonder you are getting spitting oil or burning oil, or oil in intake.

STOP putting in more engine oil..

A constant ON 'Oil Can Light' (NOT FLASHING) means you need more oil (oil is low in Oil Pan), but again I repeat a FLASHING Oil Light does NOT mean more engine oil is needed.

, sorry bud but I hope I am reading what you are saying correctly.

Some here who own a Series 1 are giving you incorrect advice...not intentionally, but there is much engine stuff (electrics) which is not the same between RX-8 series.

 

Here are the problem points that cause the oil light to flash for a series 2:
Note that the "OFF" is in the CEL illumination column, so it's not lighting up a CEL for you. The *7 is a note, and the note that it corresponds to at the bottom of the document is:

 

Well the dipstick read low, so I added some more, not a lot though only 1/2 quart. So when the check oil light blinks, its not low oil but instead an electrical issue? So I think at this point we could say the OMP is looking like the culprit? Would make sense seeing how sometimes I have issues and other times I don't.

 

Um, we are talking about the oil light flashing as you stated.

A flashing check engine light is a misfire.
A flashing oil level light is an OMP fault.

 

OK M8 IF you are not going to listen to what you are being told then ..I give up.

You said in the Oil level Light was on and FLASHING...this means an issue with EMOP system, nothing else.

Do you have a code reader?, if not get it read, I already listed codes, if you pull a code then correspond it with the codes description listed, this is THE issue for FLASHING RED OIL LEVEL LIGHT.

YOU said you added more OIL with a FLASHING Oil Level Light, you should NOT EVER add oil for a Flashing/Blinking OIL LIGHT, ONLY a set constant ON Oil Level light.

There are TWO separate EMOP's (MOP), side by side.

YOU have not answered my question COULD you have mixed up (or previous owner) the Vac Lines??

See this thread....for a 2009 with a similar issue at a Dealer, turned out Vac Lines were crossed by Dealer after 'a' engine replacement.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...-244538/page2/

Get that fixed first...

 

No I understand now that that blinking check oil light is electrical/OMP. I had checked the oil level when I got gas, and it was low, so I added enough to bring it to the proper level. The light had blinked before I ever got gas/added oil. So now I understand what it means, and I will try to go get the codes read tomorrow. As far as the vac lines go, I will double check tom morning as well, theres a possibility it may be mixed/crossed after I reinstalled the UIM, although I labeled and color coded all lines.

 

And yes, I know the blinking "CEL" is for a misfire, and that a blnking "check oil light" is omp issue

 

ash8 didn't see those earlier posts. As far as driving, the CEL starts blinking at 5k rpm, and itll pop and begin to "bog" down towards redline. The solid CEL is for the midpipe, as there is no cat on my car. Coils/plugs/wires were all changed out, ran the car around problems still happened. I switch front and rear, still an issue. All plugs get ignition, and all wires have current. I installed a catch can in hopes of keeping tons of oil out of the intake, which may be my fault by overfilling. As far as the CEL, it flashes at 5k, any gear, under load or not. If I stay in gear and run it up to 8k it will sort of ignite multiple times, and then theres a large blue cloud of smoke.

 

You have to settle on a consistent (same) method of checking Engine Oil Levels...at a 'Gas Station' is not really the best, as your owners manual says and the sticker on your Fuse Box Cover, always check engine Oil Level after 5 minutes of engine off.

I check mine on a stone cold engine (car on level ground), Oil is FULL when actual level is 5mm below F mark/dot on dip stick.

IF you park your car on a level surface (reasonably), let it sit overnight and then check oil level.

On a stone cold engine the dip stick oil reading level should be at 5mm (1/4 inch) BELOW the F or FULL Mark....

IF yours is ON the Full mark or over Full mark when stone cold then you have too much oil in engine.

 

You do not need any oil catch can for any Series II, I don't know your current routing of hoses, etc, but I would be returning ALL to OE..and get your Oil Levels correct first.

IMO you are sucking in oil possibly for two reasons, one too much engine oil in oil pan and wrong connections of vac lines/hoses.

BTW it is not a good idea to run any rotary constantly over 8500RPM + when aged, you really are asking for internal engine problems.

You have to get this sorted before you look elsewhere, adding a catch can is bad advice IMO.
I have no idea where you have connected lines.

As an example IF you have done a redirection of the EMOP oil output hose line to somewhere else you would be pumping engine oil (lots) into wherever it 'may' have been re-routed (maybe intake?), as the Series II EMOP's have a cleaning mode cycle which flushes large quantities of oil through metering system...this line flushes into Oil Filler Pipe (under oil cap area) on a normal OE system.

Just get your car back to stock and take it from there.

Frankly IMO you are getting a flashing CEL (misfire) because you are fouling Spark Plugs with too much engine oil @ high RPM's/Load....

 

Well I can say I didn't know that about the dipstick level and where to fill too. I always just filled to the F mark. Ill check it when I leave work tonight seeing how its been sitting since 12. As far as the catch can, its routed from the line directly below the oil filler neck then the original hose is connected to the can. I usually don't run to redline or above 9k, mainly because theres not much power, just have been lately. I agree with too much oil might be causing it to misfire, if so ill need to drain some out.

 

OMG...This could be the issue, the line directly below the Oil Filler Cap (about 2 inches from memory) is where the EMOP Oil Flushing return Line connects to, it is a CLICK Connect, so IF you have removed this then where have you reconnect this click line to?, let me guess you blocked it off?, or re-routed?...

Your OCV (Oil Control valve) is trying to flush EMOP system and cannot, hence the Flashing Oil Level Light.

ALL NO NO's...

Geez I get tired of these guys who THINK they are doing something right when they have NO IDEA what they are doing....sorry.

As I said get rid of Catch Can and return to stock!.. ..

WHY do you guys think a Catch Can in a S2 is a good idea?

 

It could be, if it was on there before. I just installed this a few days ago. The problems have been happening for a month, and at that time no lines/vacuum/oil lines were touched or removed. The line coming from the neck runs into the catch can, and the factory line is attached to the other port on the can. Like I said, these problems have been happening for a month. Mazda is clueless as to what it could be (figures, they asked how many cylinders it had -___-). As far as the catch can I can remove it no problem, as its only about 5" of line. Other than that, everything is stock, and untouched. And I don't mean to be a pain, but just because ive done something wrong, doesn't mean I don't know what im doing...