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there’s no issue for me , I did miss a response or two from you before making my own reply about the half as much difference between Saber and Interceptor, so perhaps you’re reading more into it than exists.
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I guess what ones terminology of what a Pump is varies, EMOPS are Pumps, in S2 Engine Oil Pressure directly supplies engine oil into the small chamber of each EMOP Housing.
But does not deliver oil directly to rotor housing nozzles.
The large singular Solenoid on top of each EMOP rapidly pushes a small steel plate down, under that plate are 4 pistons which are spring loaded that push or pumps oil into each injector nozzles, so it is a pump?
you can send those to the aluminum recycler or use them for other purposes; mockup etc., keep trying to tell people not to reuse housings with mileage on them. Not to say I never sold any, but they were near newish looking.
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Thanks again people for your advice. I now have an account so the box arrives within 3 days of ordering. Used up all my supply of Interceptor. No local stores carry Sabre (Saber just seems wrong) that I could find - $200 CAD per box.
I just rolled 110k miles on my 07 I purchased from another member on here. Original engine. Runs fine compression when he sold it had one passing on juts fail. I ran some cleaner and compression came back to the good side although still low. He was running 8oz of whatever and 5w20 Dino oil.
I’ve been tracking the car and running amsoil 5w50 in sump and saber in premix. I’m sure it’s due and hopefully get it to chips this winter or rotary resurrection.
I just rolled past 163K miles on mine (2009, original engine) this morning...wonder what they look like.
Recently pulled the trigger on a rebuild. Engine was at just under 177k miles. I put roughly 120k miles on it. Both the prior owner and I premixed. Car was still running when I took it in for rebuild, drove it 4 hours from Cincinnati to Rotary Resurrection in TN. Hot starts had be getting slower. In the end, it was probably the main bearings that were going to kill it. Photos are compliments of Kevin at Rotary Resurrection.
wow that is lot of miles..rotors don't look that bad ( @TeamRX8 what are your thoughts?) considering the milage but not sure why such a high bearing wear? which 5w-30 were you mostly using. for bearing protection you need high-er HTHS numbers...
my 2010 is at 46k but it is track use only. I got it with 28k miles on the insurance auction. no idea what previous owner was doing. but last 20k miles have been to/on/from racetrack - still going strong with steady diet of redline/euro 5w/30 high HTHS oil and idemitsu premix, annual oil changes every ~2k miles. plus track side oil top-ups which is almost another oil change (I use 4-5 qt over the year - or half of qt every 4 track sessions). just changed oil last night - getting ready for the first track day of the season next week @ summit point
Last edited by Nadrealista; 03-15-2024 at 08:08 AM.
for that much mileage I doubt it will matter, but if it were me I’d look for slightly looser main bearing clearance with higher oil pressure regulator settings and thicker oil; 10W40 or 20W50. Which is a standard race engine suggestion. Nobody rotary knowledgeable is driving an RX8 looking for that last 0.5 mpg …
I keep hearing more and more good results from the BioPremix brand. The main thing is you can get away with using less of it, but for a Renesis I’d still want at least 1/2 oz/gal with a working OMP. The issue with just pouring it in the tank is the saddlebag fuel tank configuration and whether the oil is mixing equally or varying from high - low over that tank of fuel. Not really an easy solution to that for a street car.
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@TomD_Cincy can you please post you compression numbers before and after the rebuild.
I do not have readings from prior to the rebuild. I’m sure they would have been low. In addition to the wear on the housings, several of the side seal springs came out in pieces and some of the corner seals had wear from contact with the side seals. That said, the car was running and driving fine prior to the rebuild. Hot starts were getting longer, but I never had it refuse to start. I suspect the main bearings would have spun in the near term and forced the rebuild had I not gotten it done.
I am considering getting a compression tester so may be able to post future readings. As of now, I have not had compression tested.
As I have said elsewhere, that bearing wear is likely from overtightening the belts in my opinion. With only 2 bearings and a long span between, a rotary is susceptible to this kind of wear, just as a piston engine is, but very much more so, because of the engine layout. I have seen overtightened belts show up in UOAs.
In addition, the housing and side seal wear still show inadequate volume of combustion chamber lubrication, in my opinion. I believe these can be 300k miles street engines with adequate lubrication and proper temperature control. Something never seen on this forum in all these years.
Last edited by kevink0000; 03-18-2024 at 10:48 AM.
I do not have readings from prior to the rebuild. I’m sure they would have been low. In addition to the wear on the housings, several of the side seal springs came out in pieces and some of the corner seals had wear from contact with the side seals. That said, the car was running and driving fine prior to the rebuild. Hot starts were getting longer, but I never had it refuse to start. I suspect the main bearings would have spun in the near term and forced the rebuild had I not gotten it done.
I am considering getting a compression tester so may be able to post future readings. As of now, I have not had compression tested.
I assume Kevin @ RR will test it after the rebuild?
I assume Kevin @ RR will test it after the rebuild?
I don't think he checked it after rebuild, at least he made no mention of it and it wasn't listed on the invoice. I've had the car back for about 10 days and have already completed his recommended 500 mile break in...did about half of it just driving it home from his shop.