poacherinthezoo

The following is a list of things I have done/am going to be doing soon to my car in order to prepare the car for it's first autocross event (not preparing the driver, I've been a regular for a while now). I saw a few threads of this nature for track driving prep, but didn't know if all of that stuff applied because autocross is so much less taxing on the car that driving on a track. I'm not preparing to any specific class - just trying to make sure that the car remains as reliable as possible.

Some of the stuff is just routine standard maintenance for the mileage and since the car is new to me (had it for 2 months now) and the only service records I have from the previous owner are for oil changes I can safely assume they were never done. Also, some of it, I know, might be considered over-kill by some people since the car is a series 2, but my view is better safe than sorry, and until its proven other wise its not worth the risk. So, does this list look right? Did I miss anything?

Car is a 2009 R3 with 28,XXXX miles

-Fresh Oil Change (obviously) Using 5W-20 Penzoil dino stuff for the time being (because I got 15 gallons of it for free and its still not warm outside yet) but once that's gone I plan to go to 5-30.
-Diff fluid changed to Redline 75W90 (fixed) (is there any truth to the idea that our diffs run super hot and thus burn out the fluid much faster than other LSD?
-Manual Transmission Fluid changed to Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (as a guy who swapped a miata for the RX8 I KNOW that this stuff is worth the price in this transmission)
-BHR Ignition System (including spark plugs of course)
-Premix - still don't know what I want to use because I can't find anything that's any good for sale anywhere!
-Eccentric Shaft Cleaning - not sure on this one yet, still need to research it
-Replace Air Filter (using just your standard Autozone filter)
-Read about rerouting the coolant lines around the MAF in order to decrease intake temps - not sure if this is series 1 or 2 specific or both or if its even worth it
-Will eventually be removing the cat for a midpipe eventually (99% sure it'll be the BRH one) but I gotta allocate the funds in order of priority, and since I'm still under warranty with that cat AND the ignition system will be improved, it stays for now.
-Check and see if the MAF needs cleaning
-Will be doing the Racing Beat Oil Cooler Protecting Mesh Screen-things some time during the season; it's on my list but not in any hurry to do it
-Cabin air filter - but that has nothing to do with autocross driving lol

I will be monitoring my coolant temps from the ECU using an Ultra Gauge - any thing else I should be watching? Setting my "soft cap" and alarm at 205 degrees to start taking action, and an all out max of 215-220 degrees before I shut it down. Unfortunately it won't let me see oil temp or pressure. Any sense in keeping my eyes on the O2 sensor temps? Will that be of any use in catching early cat failure? Not sure what they should be but as of right now they sit between 1500 and 1600 degrees F most of the time, current ambient air temperatures have been around 25-35 F and I do 80-90% of my miles on the freeway cruising at a stead 65 mph.

Also plan on unscrewing the front license plate for the events, and putting it back on for the drive home. The plate and its mounting bracket cover a hell of a lot of the radiator! I haven't tried it yet, but it LOOKS like its and easy job, and shouldn't take more than a minute or two to do.


So do I win the prize as the most overly paranoid RX8 owner ever now or am I sane?

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

See remarks in blue ... good luck

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Some of the simplest mods will move you from stock class, to a higher one. The BHR ignition is one of them. Replacing the cat with a midpipe will be another. This is regardless of what organization you run with.

One thing I see missing is an accurate tire gauge. Tire pressures are the only handling change you can make at the track with a stock vehicle.
Look into getting a performance alignment. The oem settings are good. Changes can be made to make it better.

poacherinthezoo

I'm not at all concerned with being competitive in my class, just looking to make the car reliable and trouble free. Whatever class that lands me in is fine by me.

I already have a nice tire pressure gauge that I used when I autocrossed my miata. It can't read tire temperatures, but like I said, I'm not that competitive.

I plan to run the first event or two, or three, see how the car feels and how I like it and then change the alignment from there. I know my alignment specs right now, and I know I have a touch of toe out in the rear that will most likely need to be changed, but I want to see how the car feels with its current alignment before changing any of it.


Thanks for the responses!

poacherinthezoo

I've decided that I'm going to suck it up and buy the Saber Pro online in bulk. I still haven't decided what ratio to mix at; I've seen a rather wide range of ratios being used by various people. Oh well, I'll just keep reading the threads and make my decision by the time it arrives. I'm thinking more on the light side since the car is a Series II with the 3rd injector. Currently thinking of something in the 1:300 ball park.

EDIT: Also I think I need to look into this "FP+" stuff that I see a lot of people are using. Not sure what it is or what it's suppose to do but it does seem popular so it's worth the time to look into it.

xexok

Most people mix about half an ounce per gallon for daily driving and some go heavier than that when racing. So at 300:1 you would be doing a bit less than what people use for just cruising around.

godesshunter

Is that something internal with the new coil setup or something ecu controlled?

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Ecu controlled

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

I seem to remember people that used FP+ reported that it didn't mix well in the tank and left crap on the fuel filter sock. You may want to search the site for member reports before starting to use that.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

I have been using fp+ since day 1 pretty much and have no complaints. I admit though that I haven't taken a look inside the tank to see if it has affected the filter, nor do I have hard evidence that it is doing some good, but so far my uoa's show no contamination, and the guys over at bitog stand by this product.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

j9fd3s

the Idemitsu premix was actually developed for the rotary, there is an SAE paper on it. you usually have to order it, but it isn't expensive, so its a pretty easy choice.

rerouting the coolant lines is popular, but it'll bump you out of stock class. impact on intake temps can't be huge, and impact on power is probably hard to measure...

the license plate thing, i haven't looked at an S2, but the S1 grille is kind of a dummy, so the front plate actually doesn't block anything. it is ugly though

rickeo

iTrader: (1)

I'm concerned that no one has mentioned that he's putting MT-90 in his diff when you're specifically supposed to put Redline 75W90 in the diff and MT-90 in the transmission.

Both are proven here for years, why do something different? Should he even be putting MT-90 in the diff? AFAIK we're not supposed to do that.

ASH8

rickeo you are correct.

However the Motorcraft Trans Oil product is a fan in Miata Forums (US), personally I use MT-90 in Trans as it is thinner and better for my weather conditions, Ford product has more additives and is better in colder weather apparently, however there are Miata owners who have switch back from Motorcraft to MT-90?....

OP you really should not be running a GL4 Oil (MT-90) in your DIFF, LSD should be only GL5.

rickeo

iTrader: (1)

Ok good, thats what I thought.

poacherinthezoo

Ah, good catch - that was a mental lapse/typo on my part. MT-90 was one of the options for transmission fluid that I was considering, but like I stated above I opted for the motorcraft due to previous experience with it.

What my original post SHOULD say is is Redline 75W90 for the diff.

sweatr

@poacherinthezoo; Are you running hot in these events?. I saw some thing today I am going o try on my 2004 8 4 seed automatic. It is a radiator mist system. It is mechanical and electrical. Its called an imperial radiator mist system. Just a 2 gallon bottle with a electric pump and 2 misters attached to the front of the radiator and it gets mist when you need to give the radiator a little cool down. Low tech, but effective.

Its warm here in the rocky mountains a mile high.

sweatr

This system is available at Advanced auto parts. $86.00

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

If you're overheating at an autocross, I think there is likely something wrong with your cooling system that needs fixing. With a run of 60s at most, there really is not time to overload the stock cooling system.

Signal 2

Scanned the thread and it looks like you've changed some of the fluids but not all. For a maintenance baseline, especially on a new (to you) car before an autoX season...

*Flush and change you're coolant. Use as much distilled water as you can safely get away with...which should be more than the common 50/50 mix. The more water, the more efficient the cooling. Runs are brief, but if your events are like mine, sitting in line in July and August can make you hot. The car too. Bi-metal engine block, means coolant get's acidic over time. That can be as tough on coolant seals as overheating. Personally I change mine anually. Along these lines, if the stock temp gauge isn't linear, get an aftermarket one.
*Change the brake fluid. For autoX, you're not likely to have to worry about temps much, so anything that meets specs is probably fine.
*New belts. Easy and relatively inexpensive.
Maybe optional...
*Fuel filter
*Fuel system cleaner (I like BG stuff)

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

- brake fluid, imho replace every season.
- new belts not really necessary
- fuel filter, not really necessary
- fuel cleaner, not really necessary

Signal 2

Suit yourself. But imho, neither is hp+ or magic rotary oil. Or maybe more accurately...as necessary.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

unless he is shoveling dirt in his fuel tank, or making his own gasoline in his back yard, there is no reason for the fuel system to be tainted on a 09 with 30k miles on it. the same can be said about belts.

take it for what you will.

Signal 2

OK. I will. It's a 4 yr old car regardless of miles. Age is as big or bigger factor on belts than miles. The car is new to the OP, and he will be stressing components like belts in the middle of the midwest summer at autocrosses. They're cheap and easy to change. Shoveling dirt in the tank is a rediculous red-herring visual to side-track the issue . Presumably the owner knows only what was told to him by the seller of the car's history. Regardless I did say fuel system stuff was optional.
The OP can take if for what he will.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Also, for you

Fluids, water or gator/power aide. Shade, chair, torque wrench, a tarp to sit or lay on if you need to touch something on the car, pull the floor mat from your side while driving, sunglasses, but spray, hat, gloves, decent shoes, jack, if you want to move tires around, beef for after last run.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

i personally use goldbond around that area to keep it dry and smelling fresh.