Stuck intake manifold valve
12-09-2010 | 03:02 PM
#26
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 3
From: Omaha, NE
well I accidently overfilled my engine oil recently. It is so full I cant even tell how much over because it completely covers the dip stick. Yet I ran the last four or five races of the season like this without so much as a single drop of oil getting in my intake
so please keep on with the forum wives tale ....
so please keep on with the forum wives tale ....
12-09-2010 | 05:10 PM
#27
Thread Starter
wankel my wanker
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 243
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From: indiana
It has been stated that carbon can gum up the intake valve and premix can possibly help and this was the post I was getting that idea from.
I already know what going to eventually happen based on my knowledge of these engines. Here's something you guys need to understand. The lower intake on the S1 and S2 will still be subjected to carbon intake runner build-up over time. VDI sticking open and AUX 5th and 6th port actuators sticking open WILL be a problem with S2 engines also regardless of it's slightly different design. The old S4 and S5 Rx7's had problems all the time with sticking aux 5th and 6th port actuators. For those of you that have never pulled these engines apart, carbon will work it's way far up the intake runners causing those components to stick/freeze open. Revving your engine on a regular bases helps since it keeps these components in operation on a regular bases, however revving still wont prevent the carbon from still building up the runners. This is where I found that premixing was very helpful. Not only is it the absolute best way to lube the rotary combustion chamber and fight carbon, but when the injectors spray the fuel/2 cyl oil mixture, you get an oil film that evenly distributed all over. This film will also work it's way up the intake runners. As long as you have an oil film, carbon can't stick to it.
I personally have a 91 Rx7 NA convertible that I rebuilt 5 years ago that gets granny driven all the time. When I say granny driven, I need shifting at 3k all the time with NO hi rpm revving. The engine have 45k on it. Based on my driving habits, my engine should be carbon infested but it's not. My OMP doesn't work so I've premixed that entire time. My aux actuators still move freely and I haven't driven my car in a year and a half.
Now my advice to all you S2 owners is to premix. Yes I understand Mazda improved the S2 OMP set-up but even that system will never lube the combustion chamber was fell as premixing will. I can assure you that is fact based on how Mazda designed the OMP delivery system.
I personally have a 91 Rx7 NA convertible that I rebuilt 5 years ago that gets granny driven all the time. When I say granny driven, I need shifting at 3k all the time with NO hi rpm revving. The engine have 45k on it. Based on my driving habits, my engine should be carbon infested but it's not. My OMP doesn't work so I've premixed that entire time. My aux actuators still move freely and I haven't driven my car in a year and a half.
Now my advice to all you S2 owners is to premix. Yes I understand Mazda improved the S2 OMP set-up but even that system will never lube the combustion chamber was fell as premixing will. I can assure you that is fact based on how Mazda designed the OMP delivery system.
12-09-2010 | 05:13 PM
#28
Thread Starter
wankel my wanker
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 243
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From: indiana
Hi ******!
i used the code reader to re-set the CEL last night. Drove all the way to work this morning without the CEL returning so I'm hoping it was just a weather related fluke. I thought about adding some Lucas Gas Treatment on my next fill up but may try the pre mix instead. What did you use?
i used the code reader to re-set the CEL last night. Drove all the way to work this morning without the CEL returning so I'm hoping it was just a weather related fluke. I thought about adding some Lucas Gas Treatment on my next fill up but may try the pre mix instead. What did you use?
12-09-2010 | 05:22 PM
#29
I'm the original owner of my '04 and have never pre-mixed... and my SSV was clean (light film) last time I looked.
But pre-mixing isn't a bad thing anyways so I'm not going to discourage people from doing it, I just wouldn't bet money on it preventing valves from sticking.
Last edited by Jon316G; 12-09-2010 at 05:26 PM.
12-09-2010 | 08:16 PM
#30
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 12
From: Indialantic, Florida
We do see more "stuck valve" related issues when the outside temps drop.
No.
The link Mazurfer directed you to was created to help pin-point your particular issue because we've seen SSV related codes caused by almost every component of that valve.
You didn't mention the code, so we are assuming its SSV (P2070) because that is the most common, but we've seen "stuck valve" codes for all of them (APV, SSV, VDI).
Most of the "advise" on this forum is randomly throwing ideas at you until you solve it and not much true troubleshooting, which does get frustrating to watch.
But to some degree, you have to test various components so you know what needs to be taken apart to clean/fix/replace.
And as I pointed out before... its not always a stuck valve causing these codes, but another component such as the actuator or solenoid.
In which case "tapping with a hammer" will not help.
If you don't notice issues driving or idling, you'll probably fine to wait until the weather gets warmer.
But keep an eye out for the code to return and if it comes back more frequent, you may need to tackle this sooner.
Did I miss something?
What does pre-mixing have anything to do with "stuck valves"?
No.
The link Mazurfer directed you to was created to help pin-point your particular issue because we've seen SSV related codes caused by almost every component of that valve.
You didn't mention the code, so we are assuming its SSV (P2070) because that is the most common, but we've seen "stuck valve" codes for all of them (APV, SSV, VDI).
Most of the "advise" on this forum is randomly throwing ideas at you until you solve it and not much true troubleshooting, which does get frustrating to watch.
But to some degree, you have to test various components so you know what needs to be taken apart to clean/fix/replace.
And as I pointed out before... its not always a stuck valve causing these codes, but another component such as the actuator or solenoid.
In which case "tapping with a hammer" will not help.
If you don't notice issues driving or idling, you'll probably fine to wait until the weather gets warmer.
But keep an eye out for the code to return and if it comes back more frequent, you may need to tackle this sooner.
Did I miss something?
What does pre-mixing have anything to do with "stuck valves"?
I knew if he went and started with your thread that a lot might come to light!
12-09-2010 | 10:14 PM
#31
.........................
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Bay AREA
this happened to e before but it was right after I put in my mid pipe. guess what happened was the screen inside AEM intake got sucked up to the intake opening and hit the intake when opening. good times....
12-10-2010 | 08:50 AM
#32
Man About Town
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
Jon, Thanks for the detailed reply. That's what I love about this place, you can always find someone who will take the time to help out. The Club has saved me hundreds of dollars that I've would have wasted at the dealership.
Anyway, the CEL hasn't returned and hopefully it won't. I tried blowing it out a bit yesterday just to be on the safe side and I've got a long drive today so I'll get a chance to expel some more carbon pollution into the air later.
Anyway, the CEL hasn't returned and hopefully it won't. I tried blowing it out a bit yesterday just to be on the safe side and I've got a long drive today so I'll get a chance to expel some more carbon pollution into the air later.
12-11-2010 | 08:52 AM
#33
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 12
From: Indialantic, Florida
12-13-2010 | 05:10 PM
#34
Registered
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,134
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From: Sheboygan Falls, Wisconsin
Mazda should really be incorporating more of this de-carboning stuff within their preventative maintenance in the manual. Seems they don't want to admit this is a widespread problem and all dealerships want to do is replace everything right away.
12-17-2010 | 01:45 AM
#35
The game changer!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Tx
The first stuck SSV I encountered (which is the same vehicle in my SSV removal video) is from a guy who pre-mixed.
I'm the original owner of my '04 and have never pre-mixed... and my SSV was clean (light film) last time I looked.
But pre-mixing isn't a bad thing anyways so I'm not going to discourage people from doing it, I just wouldn't bet money on it preventing valves from sticking.
I'm the original owner of my '04 and have never pre-mixed... and my SSV was clean (light film) last time I looked.
But pre-mixing isn't a bad thing anyways so I'm not going to discourage people from doing it, I just wouldn't bet money on it preventing valves from sticking.
It all depends on the individual circumstances and time. I take it you don't granny drive your 8 do you? If you drove the way I do, you would have stuck valves without the premix. Premixing virtually eliminates all the rotary ritual stuff and makes then engine seem more like a normal everyday engine because at how well it prevents carbon build-up. Remember carbon build-up has always been the BIGGEST killer of all NA rotaries. For premixing to be beneficial to the aux ports, one needs to start premixing at the very early low mileage stages. In my case, I had to from day one because my OMP doesn't work. Too my knowledge, premixing wont remove build-up that's already in place. So if your someone thats always granny driven a rotary powered vehicle and start to premix at 25k, the damage is already done. The only thing premixing will do for you now is provide you with it's superior lubricating properties. Right now is the perfect time for the S2 guys to start doing it. The sooner the better!
Last edited by T-von; 12-17-2010 at 01:53 AM.
12-17-2010 | 04:40 PM
#38
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wankel my wanker
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From: indiana
08-30-2012 | 10:55 AM
#40
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Reviving this old thread to see if anyone else is experiencing the P2070 code on an S2. The vast majority of the threads I looked over are about S1s and I am wondering if more of these popped up over the years for S2s.
I am getting the P2070 code at start up about every week or so. I have gotten no noticeable power loss, no rough idling, and the valve does not seem to be sticking. The Dealer replaced the solenoid which did nothing noticeable to correct the issue.
Any thoughts?
I am getting the P2070 code at start up about every week or so. I have gotten no noticeable power loss, no rough idling, and the valve does not seem to be sticking. The Dealer replaced the solenoid which did nothing noticeable to correct the issue.
Any thoughts?
08-30-2012 | 02:27 PM
#41
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 603
Likes: 2
From: Long Beach, CA
If you can reach in an move the actuator freely, it's probably not the valve sticking. Could be the SSV switch which confirms whether or not the valve is opening / closing, or perhaps the vacuum actuator is faulty.
I have not heard of SSV problems on the Series-2 cars. I believe the actuator system was upgraded as of the later Series-1 cars to help address valve sticking, and the PCV system was redesigned on the Series-2 cars to minimize deposits in the upper intake system.
I have not heard of SSV problems on the Series-2 cars. I believe the actuator system was upgraded as of the later Series-1 cars to help address valve sticking, and the PCV system was redesigned on the Series-2 cars to minimize deposits in the upper intake system.
10-16-2015 | 07:36 PM
#42
New Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Same problem
Hey guys. I don't know if this is a good thing bur when my car didn't work a few weeks ago my dad ( a mechanic ) put oil in the manifold and then the car actually turned on. I don't know if that is good though, any thought?
10-18-2015 | 08:48 AM
#43
Rotary Evolution
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 853
Likes: 2
From: Central FL
injecting oil in the intake compensates for low compression for either a junk engine or one that has been severely flooded. you just have to determine which it is in your case. compression test.
10-18-2015 | 10:41 AM
#44
New Member
Joined: Sep 2015
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I did have a compression test done by mazda dealership. The car hadn't been working for months but when my dad did that the car turned on for a bit and then turned off. I took it to mazda and they did some test and told me the ignition coils were bad and engine swap would be likely. I took it home shortly afterwards and changed the coils myself and the car works like new now. I don't understand why they said engine was bad when it's running better then ever. Now I just have a P0061 code.
04-23-2016 | 08:42 PM
#45
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Joined: Apr 2016
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I have this same issue on my '09. It happened just after an oil change, now im getting oil in my intake and also my dipstick is popping out after 6000rpm. I did a compression test and it shows healthy numbers. Can a faulty oil filter or bad cat cause this ? oil filter was not oem btw....
05-08-2016 | 07:24 PM
#46
New Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 3
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Was wondering if you could help.... Every time I'm hardonthrottle for a couple minutes on freeway engine kicks back and engine light flashes... Says intake valve open? Is it a defect or what can I do to prevent this but still be able to open up throttle
06-24-2016 | 01:00 AM
#48
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10
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From: Meridian, MS
P2070
I got the P2070 on my 2005. Here is the thread: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...r-code-197062/
I ran it hard and the CEL went off. This was actually recommended by the dealer at the time to get it "unstuck".
Some in this thread mentioned oil and the MAF. I had that issue too. During an oil change the oil was filled too fast, and it coated the MAF sensor. The sensor is very delicate (and expensive), so be careful. I removed it and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. CEL was gone.
As I mentioned in other threads get a bluetooth ODB 2 reader and an app like Torque Pro. You can read error codes and get nice info like MAF, Load, and MPG.
I ran it hard and the CEL went off. This was actually recommended by the dealer at the time to get it "unstuck".
Some in this thread mentioned oil and the MAF. I had that issue too. During an oil change the oil was filled too fast, and it coated the MAF sensor. The sensor is very delicate (and expensive), so be careful. I removed it and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. CEL was gone.
As I mentioned in other threads get a bluetooth ODB 2 reader and an app like Torque Pro. You can read error codes and get nice info like MAF, Load, and MPG.
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