D585 Coils, Which ones to buy?
#27
i also lurk around rallyanarchy.com alot!!! if you think i'm annoying because i give real DIY solutions to expensive problems y'all should check out John Vanlandingham he's a real cheap hardcore solution developer!
#28
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
#29
#30
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
why? is this some kind of social status thing?
got one off a yukon xl not even rusted & nice enough!
you can make some, haven't bought any in a while, me & my friends bought a shitload of different connectors a couple of years ago and MSD wire.
so they have to be nice eh? how about a wire brush & some tremclad? they'll be like new.
what do you mean by brand name? AC Delco? the oem...
that's up to you, this tread started with a guy asking about coils to fix his bad ones that he thinks aren't genuine and then someone else asks about P/N stamping. All issues which i address in my first post.
If you choose to get all pissed off and feel personally attacked because i consider a kit that would cost me 700$ cdn + shipping+duty & taxes uber expensive crap because i can have the same performance on the cheap well, get a life...
can you prove to us that a used ac delco coil is worse than a new one? can you demonstrate with any kind of data that a jegs, msd or other equivalent coil actually makes a difference?
keep in mind, 9.75$ cdn per coil, even got the bracket &hardware for free.
in my field of work, you have to prove your point, not base decisions on feelings & looks. The 3 D's ya know... Data Driven Decisions, the basis of all engineering!
got one off a yukon xl not even rusted & nice enough!
you can make some, haven't bought any in a while, me & my friends bought a shitload of different connectors a couple of years ago and MSD wire.
so they have to be nice eh? how about a wire brush & some tremclad? they'll be like new.
what do you mean by brand name? AC Delco? the oem...
that's up to you, this tread started with a guy asking about coils to fix his bad ones that he thinks aren't genuine and then someone else asks about P/N stamping. All issues which i address in my first post.
If you choose to get all pissed off and feel personally attacked because i consider a kit that would cost me 700$ cdn + shipping+duty & taxes uber expensive crap because i can have the same performance on the cheap well, get a life...
can you prove to us that a used ac delco coil is worse than a new one? can you demonstrate with any kind of data that a jegs, msd or other equivalent coil actually makes a difference?
keep in mind, 9.75$ cdn per coil, even got the bracket &hardware for free.
in my field of work, you have to prove your point, not base decisions on feelings & looks. The 3 D's ya know... Data Driven Decisions, the basis of all engineering!
It's not a social thing, it's a you don't know what you are getting and junk yards don't take back electronic parts thing. Plus new is always better than used.
The bracket from a Yukon is worthless, you still have to mount them on the Renesis.
You and your friend may have the tools and stock to make ignition wires but most people don't.
Yes, AC delco is OEM and I would consider it good.
Again comparing an set of junkyard coils of unknown mileage and condition to brand new coils is just silly. yes they may be fine and they also may 200,000 miles on them and may have been under water, you never know.
Lastly, I am not pissed, nor do I feel personally attacked. You said the BHR kit is uber expensive crap and that is just nonsense.
As for demonstrating which brands of coils are good or bad, well no I can't demonstrate that because I have never needed too since my coils work great.
Please post pics of your setup.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 10-19-2016 at 06:04 PM.
#31
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
He likes to refer to people with BHR kits as 'fanbois'.
Anyhoo, many of us would prefer to pay extra buying a complete kit to install efficiently rather than spending a bunch of time trying to scavenge components to save a few bucks.
#32
everything i ever done was homebuilt, that's what i do. It's a good way of developing skills & useful knowledge! clearly nobody here is a fan of self engineered solutions, if you can't do it yourself well, then pay someone to do it...
#33
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I've made a living as a mechanic and a machinist, so I'm no stranger to taking on projects.
I'm not big on wasting time on something that may or may not work.
Time is very valuable to me, and I don't want to spend it running around gathering junkyard parts.
If you enjoy it, great.
Just don't label someone who doesn't with a derogatory term like 'fanboi'.
It's smug, and pretentious.
#34
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well let's see your home built ignition coil setup.
And doing stuff myself is nothing new, but some times things are best left to other professionals.
A large part of this is my creation.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 10-20-2016 at 09:26 AM.
#35
here we go, how to swap to D585 coils for less than a hundred bucks:
Simple bracket mod done with crap that was laying around.
Assemble coils with threaded rods, nuts & loctite.
Remove needed HT connectors from shitty GM Yukon wires so they can be reused.
Crimp them to rx8 wires.
You now have AC Delco compatible HT leads.
Wire plugs to car by twisting the stripped wire tips, soldering them solid & then flatten them slightly to make a male spade connector. You now have a way to plug in the new system and also convert back to the original setup if you have to. Tape everything up properly and there you go!
Finished!
All that from the salvage yard.
4 coils with wires for 10$ a piece, threaded rod for 2.50$, box of 60 nuts for 5.50.
Half a day to do and the car runs fine.
Simple bracket mod done with crap that was laying around.
Assemble coils with threaded rods, nuts & loctite.
Remove needed HT connectors from shitty GM Yukon wires so they can be reused.
Crimp them to rx8 wires.
You now have AC Delco compatible HT leads.
Wire plugs to car by twisting the stripped wire tips, soldering them solid & then flatten them slightly to make a male spade connector. You now have a way to plug in the new system and also convert back to the original setup if you have to. Tape everything up properly and there you go!
Finished!
All that from the salvage yard.
4 coils with wires for 10$ a piece, threaded rod for 2.50$, box of 60 nuts for 5.50.
Half a day to do and the car runs fine.
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RX_4+4 (10-17-2017)
#40
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
The irony that has yet to be discussed is we have a guy who is proud of having hacked together an idea developed by other guys eight years ago. Had Phil been leading some sort of experiment in an effort to improve things, we might forgive him for the shoddy appearance in the pursuit of improvement. Instead, he is copying someone else's idea and doing a poor job of it.
From whence doth Phil's pride emanate?
From whence doth Phil's pride emanate?
If economy is a factor, it's an accomplishment.
Economy is usually not associated with an RX8.
Kind of like being the tallest midget.
Cost and value are not always equitable.
#41
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I would put that bracket in the pretty crappy category, it is far from good IMO. But then again we all have different opinions on what we think quality is I guess. That amount of rust anywhere on my RX-8 would keep me up nights.
#42
Registered
AC Delco D585 stamped with "19005218"
Ignition Coil
Part Number: D585
Product Notes:
Ignition Coil
All; STAMPED 19005218, DELPHI, ROUND COIL; VIN: T, Eng Code: LM7*
Per Vehicle: 8; Years: 2003-2007
Last edited by B-K; 10-25-2017 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Add "in AC Delco packaging"
#43
FYI - The parts catalog on the AC Delco website indicates that the coil should be stamped with "19005218". See parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php. Search on 2006 Chevrolet Express 1500 5.3 L V8 VIN:T. The description for the coil is as below. It appears that coils in AC Delco packaging that are not stamped with 19005218 may be counterfeit. Does anyone know otherwise?
Ignition Coil
Part Number: D585
Product Notes:
Ignition Coil
All; STAMPED 19005218, DELPHI, ROUND COIL; VIN: T, Eng Code: LM7*
Per Vehicle: 8; Years: 2003-2007
Ignition Coil
Part Number: D585
Product Notes:
Ignition Coil
All; STAMPED 19005218, DELPHI, ROUND COIL; VIN: T, Eng Code: LM7*
Per Vehicle: 8; Years: 2003-2007
#46
While I can respect the effort and results as a whole, those crimped wires look janky af. BUT let’s remember context here; they explicitly stated this car was purchased on the cheap specifically to be thrown around, not as a fancy street car. The rust, the far from ‘clean’ or stock/quality aftermarket look, neither of that matters in this case and others like it. Add in the frugal-ness of it.
to make his case, let’s use the full fancy looking kit from BHR (quality, engineering, support). $650. Now this guy is Canadian, so you have currency exchange rates ($840), import, taxes, other fees ... let’s exaggerate a bit and say $1000 Canadian.
Now, for a car like mine (06 Shinka < 30k miles), and a budget that can afford it; there is little reason to not get the BHR kit, even at the inflated import costs. But if you only spent 2k on the car, spending half that much more for a fancy ignition when you have the ingenuity to do it yourself for 1/5 as much, works for the use case and makes at least some sense.
they specifically stated the money saved to not get the looks and the import fees for them is better spent on tires, brake pads, etc seems quite logical. If you are racing, ‘pretty’ should be the last of your concerns. Pretty only goes so far and your own or someone else’s mistake can ruin it. You don’t even need to be at a track; look at rob dahm’s car, he took his pretty montego blue fd, modded it, but spun into a rail on the highway, melted the paint on the hood from turbo heat, etc.
I think he made two mistakes in this thread. Using the crap term instead of just saying cost prohibitive for some, and throwing the fanboy slur. Otherwise his solution fits for a cheap alternative in a bind or in a ‘beater/racer’ mindset where results means far more than looking amazing.
lets try to be kind and understanding to each other, both sides we are all here for our passion for rotary, let’s not forget that and try to see through our differences in how we communicate and go about getting similar results. Do not get prudish about how much money someone has to spend on their car, that takes away from you, not the person who is not as financially successful.
8s can be had relatively cheap now and the newer owners might not have the same expendable income as you, but they still love their cars and need to get stuff done. Being prissy gets you no where, neither does trash talking. So let’s just respect that his solution can work in a budget bind, pure results driven, or for extreme frugality, BHR kit works for pretty much all other cases.
Finally, while I can understand the jabs from the man himself about borrowing on the efforts he put in to create it, and his solution is pretty damn clean and useful, this isn’t always the case in mods like these and it doesn’t mean it cannot be improved upon. For me, as an example, the sohn adapter resovior is not an acceptable solution, and would rather either design something myself or find a someone who has done it in a way I like better. The person who created that bracket and resovior solution could poke at an alternative solution similarly, but it doesn’t take away that a specific solution is the only or best for all people and situations. A bit of a stretch because it’s hard to improve upon the BHR ignition but the point stands.
Now I’m off to start saving for my own BHR kit, as I am approaching the 30k mark and need to be prepared to drop that $700 soon-ish
to make his case, let’s use the full fancy looking kit from BHR (quality, engineering, support). $650. Now this guy is Canadian, so you have currency exchange rates ($840), import, taxes, other fees ... let’s exaggerate a bit and say $1000 Canadian.
Now, for a car like mine (06 Shinka < 30k miles), and a budget that can afford it; there is little reason to not get the BHR kit, even at the inflated import costs. But if you only spent 2k on the car, spending half that much more for a fancy ignition when you have the ingenuity to do it yourself for 1/5 as much, works for the use case and makes at least some sense.
they specifically stated the money saved to not get the looks and the import fees for them is better spent on tires, brake pads, etc seems quite logical. If you are racing, ‘pretty’ should be the last of your concerns. Pretty only goes so far and your own or someone else’s mistake can ruin it. You don’t even need to be at a track; look at rob dahm’s car, he took his pretty montego blue fd, modded it, but spun into a rail on the highway, melted the paint on the hood from turbo heat, etc.
I think he made two mistakes in this thread. Using the crap term instead of just saying cost prohibitive for some, and throwing the fanboy slur. Otherwise his solution fits for a cheap alternative in a bind or in a ‘beater/racer’ mindset where results means far more than looking amazing.
lets try to be kind and understanding to each other, both sides we are all here for our passion for rotary, let’s not forget that and try to see through our differences in how we communicate and go about getting similar results. Do not get prudish about how much money someone has to spend on their car, that takes away from you, not the person who is not as financially successful.
8s can be had relatively cheap now and the newer owners might not have the same expendable income as you, but they still love their cars and need to get stuff done. Being prissy gets you no where, neither does trash talking. So let’s just respect that his solution can work in a budget bind, pure results driven, or for extreme frugality, BHR kit works for pretty much all other cases.
Finally, while I can understand the jabs from the man himself about borrowing on the efforts he put in to create it, and his solution is pretty damn clean and useful, this isn’t always the case in mods like these and it doesn’t mean it cannot be improved upon. For me, as an example, the sohn adapter resovior is not an acceptable solution, and would rather either design something myself or find a someone who has done it in a way I like better. The person who created that bracket and resovior solution could poke at an alternative solution similarly, but it doesn’t take away that a specific solution is the only or best for all people and situations. A bit of a stretch because it’s hard to improve upon the BHR ignition but the point stands.
Now I’m off to start saving for my own BHR kit, as I am approaching the 30k mark and need to be prepared to drop that $700 soon-ish
#47
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Try taking a walk back in history starting here:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...located-82232/
Not trying to defame anyone or any product, but this was all done prior to the RX8 and you can argue it any way you want but what already existed was simply adapted here. Refining it specifically for the application is only that, nothing was created or unique beyond that.
.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...located-82232/
Not trying to defame anyone or any product, but this was all done prior to the RX8 and you can argue it any way you want but what already existed was simply adapted here. Refining it specifically for the application is only that, nothing was created or unique beyond that.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 10-31-2017 at 10:51 AM.
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