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I have removed the shims and shifted the motor mounts on the driverside. The intake now has more clearance, the downpipe is very tight but now fits.
The Banzai cross member brace does not come with engine motor mounts. Overall I don't have any complaints about the combination. Without having to fabricate anything.
I have removed the shims and shifted the motor mounts on the driverside. The intake now has more clearance, the downpipe is very tight but now fits.
The Banzai cross member brace does not come with engine motor mounts. Overall I don't have any complaints about the combination. Without having to fabricate anything.
Interesting, I'm assuming you bought yours used since this has been discontinued for some time now? Mine 100% came with mounts back in 2019, regardless this explains why you went with FFE, was just curious.
Anyways, nice work, enjoy watching other people tackle this swap and seeing how they do it. Curious, do you have any photos of your exhaust manifold? Mine sits in a similar position to yours.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 11-29-2023 at 04:03 PM.
but as posted in another thread, wait until you see the Banzai engine support brace modified without any of those parts, but the engine instead directly supported on the brace itself.
In regards to bushings those are built into the FFE engine mounts and the Banzai cross member did come with bushings they are not needed. The exhaust manifold is the turboblown cast unit.
I did not really consider the Banzai engine mounts, they would have worked in hindsight but I think the FFE are a better design which is why I wanted them specifically for my build.
Sorry, I was specifically speaking to the engine mount poly bushings with the Banzai brace, not the bracket, I understand now. Yes my crossmember did not come with the brackets, I fortunately received factory REW ones with my initial engine. Thanks for the info on the manifold too.
he already addressed/explained the whys and wherefores for his position on that though, but it might not hurt for others in that particular situation to know about it.
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Fuel and Oil lines are complete. Both fuel rails and oil coolers plumbed in parallel. I'm hoping the extra effort will get me better reliability and functionality. The water pump is next on the list, currently zip tied where I will be figuring out a bracket to hold it up.
Working on the coolant system and have a few questions.
Would like opinions on turbo coolant lines, using the rear iron for coolant feed. I don't have a good idea on where the turbo coolant drain should be. What should I consider?
Working on the coolant system and have a few questions.
Would like opinions on turbo coolant lines, using the rear iron for coolant feed. I don't have a good idea on where the turbo coolant drain should be. What should I consider?
My setup is a bit different as I have the stock water pump, but i plumbed the turbo water return right to the pump inlet. You'll want to have it tee into your electric pump inlet somewhere (low pressure side of pump). I also used the nipple off the top of the rear iron for turbo coolant supply.
Almost finished. A couple of minor issues to figure out, alternator mounting(will figure out a way to mount to the strut bar), plumb the catch can, AC wiring (I cannot figure out what wire is the output to turn on the compressor from the amplifier), and some aesthetic things like the lower bumper/lip. Started the engine but having some issues getting it to idle. Almost ready to take around the block. Finally off jack stands.
If anyone knows Haltech and won't mind assist with the first start that would be great.
Finally got the car running and made it around the block, pretty exciting! I have a couple of issues that need to be figured out with the Haltech which I'm not too happy about vehicle speed and power steering are not working. Also my oil pan is leaking a bit which is kinda frustrating.
I'll be making the swap to Haltech here over the next little while, just waiting for my connector kit and WB1 and I'll start repinning my harness. I'm assuming you got your AC wiring figured out? Sorry I didn't see this sooner, I have a good idea where to pin those to in the Haltech but the one thing that is eluding me is the AC amplifier (Digital Input Pin 5W from the stock harness), did you have to wire this anywhere or can it be left disconnected?
In regards to vehicle speed, my understanding is it grabs this via vehicle CAN from the wheel speed sensors. In NSP under Sensors > Vehicle Speed > Wiring.... change all 4 of the sensor type drop downs to CAN Bus. I've set main source to be the driven wheels. Of course in order to do this make sure you first have the Vehicle CAN System set to Mazda Rx8 (USDM). I've assigned my main connector to be the Vehicle CAN and will use the Auxiliary CAN port for me WB1.
In regards to Power Steering I'm not sure what is required here..... I assumed it was just going to work since the power steering module is kept under the compartment in the ECU box and I don't see any power steering options in NSP.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 07-30-2024 at 03:46 PM.
So I haven't gotten my AC figured out yet. I'm not sure where the pin out for that is, also the mixer controls don't seem to be working. I have no lights for the temp controls. Have the metra kit though so I'm trying to figure that out. The wiring behind the dash was an absolute mess and I pulled all the added on stuff out but not sure what the issue is at the moment. Took apart the control board to look for bad solder joints per Metra troubleshooting and it looks fine.
I think my issue was the DSC and traction control lights flashing which may be the reason the speed and EPS wasn't working. I got the lights off by turning the wheel all the way from left to right. I will be seeing if the speed and EPS works shortly. The engine is open downpipe until I can get to an exhaust shop and I'm in a small neighborhood so Im a bit judicise with starting the car up, slows me down a bit.
Another new issue is where I have the ECU mounted it gets a bit hot, OEM location. Partially my fault for not opening the lid for the ECU, its mounted upside down directly to the lid. Hoping it's fine where it is but I'm adding some heat sinks to the ECU.
I really wish the Haltech gave alil more insight on the CAN info, actually a bit disappointed that it has no diagnostics for that.
Sorry, I forget what ECU you are using, but I'm speaking in terms of an Elite 1500, and disclaimer, I haven't run the car on it yet so this is all just from my planning spreadsheet:
I have AC High/Low and AC Medium (Pins 4W & 4Z) spliced together and pinned to B9 (SPI). I have AC relay (Pin 5AA) going to B19 (DPO) in Haltech. 5W is the AC amplifier, right now I don't have a home for it and is really my only outstanding question/unknown for wiring in the Haltech that I still have at the moment. I'm not sure if it's required or not.
Anyways, sounds like you may have some other wiring issues but you can at least check the ECU wiring against mine. My mixing controls don't work either, pulled the board out and the 3 solder pins were definitely loose/broken. Tried soldering this back in place and I'm still not getting mix control, mine is stuck on full cold for the time being until I find a new board in a scrap yard as the units on Ebay are ridiculously priced lol.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 07-30-2024 at 04:09 PM.
Gotcha. Thanks for the info. I'm not using the high low pressure for the AC I'm just planning on sending it. I havea vacuum pump and filled a few cars with r152, canned air, with pretty good success. I do think you'll need to hook up the amp to actually call the AC on or off.
I'm not sure if the 1500 has enough IO for me personally. I actually want more from the 2600 and will probably get the IC7 for more inputs. And probably a PDM after that. I do have the motor driver motors set aside for an eventual electric waste gate as well.
I'm hopeful that clearing the DCS light will solve the issue, I'm not the only person with the Haltech with EPS so it should work.
The 2500 vs the 1500 doesn't have any additional inputs, only extra outputs due to the additional ignition and injector drivers (4 each for a total of 8 more outputs than 1500). I'm currently not even using all of the outputs on the 1500 (still have all 4 of my stepper/DPO outputs open) but I will have used every input. I'd love to go the IC7 route one day too, the additional inputs from this is an awesome bonus.
11-29-2023, 11:05 AM
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