DIY: Racing Beat Resonated Midpipe Install
#1
He's as bad as Can
Thread Starter
DIY: Racing Beat Resonated Midpipe Install
Purchased the Racing Beat Resonated Midpipe and noticed there wasn't a DIY for this so here is one.
The pipe comes with a new front gasket and bolts, but no nuts. I recommend getting new nuts the odds of damaging the OEM ones are high. Use anti-seize when installing the new nuts, also use anti seize on the rear O2 sensor. My 8 has the AutoExe subframe brace and is why I have those red things under my car.
Tools Used:
Various 1/2 Drive Metric 6 point sockets & combination wenches from 10mm-17mm
PB Blaster to loosen the nuts
Silicon spray lubricant for the rear rubber exhaust hanger.
2 Jack Stands
Breaker Bar
Anti-Seize
Exhaust Hanger removal tool
Craftsman Bolt / Nut Remover for 14mm nut
3 M10 x 1.50 thread nuts for manifold bolts
2 M10 x 1.25 thread nuts for rear bolts
22mm O2 sensor removal socket.
The pipe comes with a new front gasket and bolts, but no nuts. I recommend getting new nuts the odds of damaging the OEM ones are high. Use anti-seize when installing the new nuts, also use anti seize on the rear O2 sensor. My 8 has the AutoExe subframe brace and is why I have those red things under my car.
Tools Used:
Various 1/2 Drive Metric 6 point sockets & combination wenches from 10mm-17mm
PB Blaster to loosen the nuts
Silicon spray lubricant for the rear rubber exhaust hanger.
2 Jack Stands
Breaker Bar
Anti-Seize
Exhaust Hanger removal tool
Craftsman Bolt / Nut Remover for 14mm nut
3 M10 x 1.50 thread nuts for manifold bolts
2 M10 x 1.25 thread nuts for rear bolts
22mm O2 sensor removal socket.
#2
He's as bad as Can
Thread Starter
Installing a Midpipe is not a complex task. Removing the OEM CAT being the most difficult part of the job.
Lift the front of the car as high as possible and place on Jack Stands and remove the OEM bracing by the factory resonator that might be in the way.
Liberally spray all the nuts you will be removing with WD40 or PB Blaster type solution.
Using a Breaker bar remove the 14mm NUTS (facing the engine) on the manifold flange NOT the bolts. The bolt heads do not turn! These nuts are the items most likely to cause problems, if they strip good thing you bought the nut removal tool.
With a 10MM socket remove the two rusty nuts holding the cover for the O2 sensor, remove that cover and set it aside it will not be needed.
Unplug the O2 sensor from its connector and CAREFULLY remove it with either the sensor removal tool or a 22mm box end wrench.
With a 17mm socket remove the nuts that are on top of the springs connecting the rear flange to the rest of the exhaust system. The nuts on the other side are welded to the CAT flange and do not come off. If the whole bolt comes out along with the spring & nut its OK. The springs will be reused as can the nuts if they are in good shape.
Spray the rubber hanger near this flange with some form of lubricant and with either a large screwdriver or tool designed for the job remove the CAT from that hanger.
You might have to pry the manifold flange apart, I didn't have to. Remove the front of the CAT by pushing its towards the rear of the car. Once the front section is off the rear comes apart easily.
The Installation is just the reverse, do not forget that anti-seize on all the nuts and O2 sensor. When you start the car for the first time the Midpipe will stink something awful. That is normal for any new exhaust system part.
Lift the front of the car as high as possible and place on Jack Stands and remove the OEM bracing by the factory resonator that might be in the way.
Liberally spray all the nuts you will be removing with WD40 or PB Blaster type solution.
Using a Breaker bar remove the 14mm NUTS (facing the engine) on the manifold flange NOT the bolts. The bolt heads do not turn! These nuts are the items most likely to cause problems, if they strip good thing you bought the nut removal tool.
With a 10MM socket remove the two rusty nuts holding the cover for the O2 sensor, remove that cover and set it aside it will not be needed.
Unplug the O2 sensor from its connector and CAREFULLY remove it with either the sensor removal tool or a 22mm box end wrench.
With a 17mm socket remove the nuts that are on top of the springs connecting the rear flange to the rest of the exhaust system. The nuts on the other side are welded to the CAT flange and do not come off. If the whole bolt comes out along with the spring & nut its OK. The springs will be reused as can the nuts if they are in good shape.
Spray the rubber hanger near this flange with some form of lubricant and with either a large screwdriver or tool designed for the job remove the CAT from that hanger.
You might have to pry the manifold flange apart, I didn't have to. Remove the front of the CAT by pushing its towards the rear of the car. Once the front section is off the rear comes apart easily.
The Installation is just the reverse, do not forget that anti-seize on all the nuts and O2 sensor. When you start the car for the first time the Midpipe will stink something awful. That is normal for any new exhaust system part.
#3
He's as bad as Can
Thread Starter
During my install one of the nuts on the CAT to Manifold flange was rounded and wouldn't budge. I was able to remove it with a nut removal tool purchased from Sears. I highly recommend this tool, it can be used for many applications.
I am very happy with this item, under normal driving its not that much louder that stock. I was concerned that along with my Greddy SP2 I was going to attract attention. When you do get it over 5,000 RPM the sound is great, not ricey at all. It's only been on 2 days (about 10 drive cycles) and no CEL yet, if one does appear I will just tape over it. There also isn't any noticeable gas odors while driving. I do notice it however when idling in the garage.
My but dyno has never worked well so I can't say there has been a noticeable improvement in power. I have not been able to open it up yet. My old CAT had 140,000 miles on it, In the attached photo you can see some cracks in the material, not sure if that means its on its way out. I am going to hold onto it for 2012 when it is due for Inspection. Bottom line is the Racing Beat Resonated midpipe is something that is easy to live with and looks great.
I am very happy with this item, under normal driving its not that much louder that stock. I was concerned that along with my Greddy SP2 I was going to attract attention. When you do get it over 5,000 RPM the sound is great, not ricey at all. It's only been on 2 days (about 10 drive cycles) and no CEL yet, if one does appear I will just tape over it. There also isn't any noticeable gas odors while driving. I do notice it however when idling in the garage.
My but dyno has never worked well so I can't say there has been a noticeable improvement in power. I have not been able to open it up yet. My old CAT had 140,000 miles on it, In the attached photo you can see some cracks in the material, not sure if that means its on its way out. I am going to hold onto it for 2012 when it is due for Inspection. Bottom line is the Racing Beat Resonated midpipe is something that is easy to live with and looks great.
Last edited by expo1; 04-02-2010 at 04:50 PM.
#9
75shot55fueljets=GOBABYGO
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thoughts on how to gut a broken cat? i can see the old RP guts clanking around inside but dono on best way to get it out. cause i really like the sound i get atm, or am i forced to cut the cat out and replace with 3.5 pipe?
#11
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#12
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#13
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as always, nicely done Expo.
That's a LOT of miles on your oem cat, glad to hear it held up even though those cracks might suggest it was nearing its demise.
I noticed you said you'll take the light if you get a CEL. You don't have an AccessPORT?????
I'm a bit surprised by that.
That's a LOT of miles on your oem cat, glad to hear it held up even though those cracks might suggest it was nearing its demise.
I noticed you said you'll take the light if you get a CEL. You don't have an AccessPORT?????
I'm a bit surprised by that.
#15
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Great DIY...Im sure i will be using it as soon as my Rev8 comes in...
I know nothing about installing anything on my 8 but im learning as I go and these DIY threads are awesome help...
Questions:
1) I have the Rev8 Catback system coming in a few days, What difference is the pipe that comes with it and the Resonated midpipe? Are those two separate parts w/ two separate functions?
*Im thinking Headers->Cat or Midpipe->Muffler...
2) Will I have to worry about the Check Engine Light coming on after I install the Rev8 catback?
***I know I shouldve asked the RB sales guy this info but I was too excited with making the purchase that it didnt come to mind...And since its the weekend and Im overseas I might have to wait till Monday...
I know nothing about installing anything on my 8 but im learning as I go and these DIY threads are awesome help...
Questions:
1) I have the Rev8 Catback system coming in a few days, What difference is the pipe that comes with it and the Resonated midpipe? Are those two separate parts w/ two separate functions?
*Im thinking Headers->Cat or Midpipe->Muffler...
2) Will I have to worry about the Check Engine Light coming on after I install the Rev8 catback?
***I know I shouldve asked the RB sales guy this info but I was too excited with making the purchase that it didnt come to mind...And since its the weekend and Im overseas I might have to wait till Monday...
#17
He's as bad as Can
Thread Starter
The CEL has no effect on the way the car drives and you should't worry about it. I would however have a code reader on hand and check it every few weeks to see if you have any other codes not related to the cat delete pipe. I installed my pipe on the 1st of this month and still have not received a CEL. On some of the older 8's getting a CEL for removing the CAT was hit or miss. I would expect one on a newer car. You could purchase a Cobb accessport and remove that CEL is its an issue.
#18
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Ahhhhh I see....THANKS!!! I was confused with the whole midpipe/cat thing...so technically if I install the catback and using the stock CAT the O2 sensor should be ok...so no CEL right? I'm just a lil worried about CEL and going in for services...
Im going to try installing it myself as soon as the exhaust comes in....hopefully by this Thursday!
Im going to try installing it myself as soon as the exhaust comes in....hopefully by this Thursday!
#19
He's as bad as Can
Thread Starter
If you do not touch the OEM Cat you will not get a CEL. Most people that remove the CAT keep it around just in case they need service or for state inspections.
#20
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So i finally got my racing beat catback and decided to do it myself with a help from a buddy...i must say i wish i had that hanger removal tool cuz it wouldve saved me alot of time and effort haha...
it took us nearly 2-3 hours to take the stock exhaust off the car...them rubber hangers are a bitch to remove...then after dropping the stock exhaust and a lil lunch break... installation was a breeze...took about 15 min.
pics and vid are here
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-multimedia-photo-gallery-6/washed-w-racingbeat-catback-installed-196664/
im tempeted to go as far as headers and the resonated cat next hehe...
it took us nearly 2-3 hours to take the stock exhaust off the car...them rubber hangers are a bitch to remove...then after dropping the stock exhaust and a lil lunch break... installation was a breeze...took about 15 min.
pics and vid are here
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-multimedia-photo-gallery-6/washed-w-racingbeat-catback-installed-196664/
im tempeted to go as far as headers and the resonated cat next hehe...
#22
rotary ninja
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for me it's liquid wrench.. take a small screwdriver and slide it along the hanger into the grommet.. squirt in some wrench or grease.. take the small screwdriver out and move the grommet around a bit... then take a relatively large screwdriver wedged through one of the holes in the grommet and just leaver it off... takes minimal effort