TopGunM2k

I have read other posts and it seems like it's normal for the Rx8 to wheel hop when you launch it. I didn't find that there was a specific solution so I wanted to ask what others have done to limit this. Has anyone upgraded to the Megan Racing traction bars or any of the other suspension components (lower links, trailing arms etc.) they have for the rx8 to help fix this issue and also improve handling? I swapped out (lower links, trailing arms, end links etc.) everything from a donor car minus the traction bars as one was bent on the donor. I am wondering if it's better to get the oem from a junk yard or pay the $200 for the MR one's if they will stiffen up the suspension and help with wheel hop?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What are you calling "traction bars" here? This isn't a leaf spring, there's no component by that name.

​​​​​​Megan is one step above ebay junk, I wouldn't bother. Anyway, the links aren't really a solution to the problem. Stiffer springs/shocks are what I would do, as well as replace any worn/sloppy bushings (many of them are part of the link and not individually replaceable, but you could always try). Also, simple things first: lower tire pressure.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

ive read good things about an older diy suspension mod on this site years ago. it involves cutting a coil or two out of your springs tho

Jk do not do this. listen to loki ya digz mane?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you just need better shocks or possibly the engine mounts, or rear diff mount bushings, or suspension bushings and/or any combination thereof need replacing.

better to cure the actual illness than try to treat the symptoms ..
.

TopGunM2k

My mistake, they are called Traction Rods. Here is the link to the site: https://meganracing.com/mrs-mz-1480. There is also another company Godspeed Performance that makes them and are a bit less expensive. It sounds like the better route per everyone's advise is to just stick with OEM which I plan to do. For the record, I replaced shocks all around with KYB (gas-a-just) and have Tein H-Tech springs (-1 inch front and -,3 rear). I also took in the car for getting the recall on the front control arms. On another note, even with all these updates; i still get a bad pop when i turn the steering wheel right or left into a driveway. It's not all the time and mostly happens when I leave my house or get to my destination and pull in. This was one of the reasons i replaced everything including the F&R sway bar links hoping it would get rid of the sound. I have taken it to two different suspension shops with no remedy. The last shop i went to, the guy proceeded to torque everything down to spec on the front suspension hoping to get rid of the sound. He did not and said "well, whatever it is - it's not dangerous to drive your car since all components look fine and are torqued down." Not sure if it's worth taking it to the stealership and have them take a look at it?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Did he torque it with the car in the air or with weight on wheels? I had a popping noise up front aa you describe, which was fixed by properly torquing the LCA bolts with weight on wheels. In the Mazda manual there are a number of points that need to be torqued this way.

You could bring it back to the dealer eho did the recall, they should honour the warranty on their work, having been thr last to touch it.

Could also be a motor mount but that would show other symptoms.

TopGunM2k

The suspension shop that torqued everything down did it while the vehicle was on all four wheels. It's the setup where they have a trench and have someone work on the vehicle from the bottom. In terms of Mazda, they installed the LCA and did a full alignment as a courtesy. The noise was there before so I don't think they did an incorrect job with the installation or anything. What about the upper control arms, is it recommended those get replaced since the LCA's are brand new?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The UCA's are easy/simple, no need to replace. If the bushings are wearing out they're easy to replace there. Not sure what to say beyond the obvious... find the source of the clunk and make sure it's snugged down... Sway bar? Does it only clunk when turning or also when suddenly braking/accelerating?

TopGunM2k

It's not the sway bar as i went through the trouble of installing new end links for the front and back. I also tightened the sway bar bushing brackets as one of them was a bit loose in the front. It only makes the sound when i turn the steering wheel to make a turn. I don't get any noise when braking or accelerating (consistently shift at 6k-9k when i drive it).