Mizu Cooling Solutions Rad/Fan Pack install
#1
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Mizu Cooling Solutions Rad/Fan Pack install
07/29/12 Update: Read the end of the thread, one of my Mizu fans burnt out after a year and they don't push enough air so the FAL shroud setup is a much better option or just get factory replacement motors.
Okay guys/gals I will be documenting the install of the Mizu aluminum radiator, fans, and shroud setup. I will be getting before and after data VIA my Cobb AP and posting up my findings. I currently have the Cobb tune turning the stock fans on earlier. I will go to a stock tune to get the initial data.
I received the items in perfect condition from Spark plug, Spark plug wire, spark plug gap, spark plug cross reference and ignition wires at Sparkplugs.com. My initial impression is good. The radiator and shroud kit look awesome and fitment seems spot on. I put everything together and had no issues.
I will post up as I proceed with the install.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757480586/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756935607/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757481284/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756936437/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756936721/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756936937/
Okay guys/gals I will be documenting the install of the Mizu aluminum radiator, fans, and shroud setup. I will be getting before and after data VIA my Cobb AP and posting up my findings. I currently have the Cobb tune turning the stock fans on earlier. I will go to a stock tune to get the initial data.
I received the items in perfect condition from Spark plug, Spark plug wire, spark plug gap, spark plug cross reference and ignition wires at Sparkplugs.com. My initial impression is good. The radiator and shroud kit look awesome and fitment seems spot on. I put everything together and had no issues.
I will post up as I proceed with the install.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757480586/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756935607/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757481284/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756936437/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756936721/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756936937/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-29-2012 at 06:43 PM.
#2
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756937179/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757482546/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757482654/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757483082/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757483268/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756938311/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757483430/
#3
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756938665/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757484280/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757484524/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756939413/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757484816/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756939857/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757485266/
#4
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756940495/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756940599/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756940945/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757486378/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757487820/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756942809/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757488366/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757489140/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756944273/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757489732/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5757489932/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5756945061/
#5
Other than the drain plug not at stock location, everything else looks pretty good.
I dunno about the fan shroud, it looks really nice tbh. but for me I'm sticking with stock, other than it looks ugly cuz its plastic ... there is nothing wrong with it really.
Lets see how the install goes.
I dunno about the fan shroud, it looks really nice tbh. but for me I'm sticking with stock, other than it looks ugly cuz its plastic ... there is nothing wrong with it really.
Lets see how the install goes.
Last edited by nycgps; 05-29-2011 at 08:07 PM.
#6
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774182494/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774183086/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774183640/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773646117/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774184536/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773647007/
#7
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773647435/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774185918/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774186942/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774186138/Also remove under tray.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774186646/Remove mounting bolts for condenser and pull forward (if you have one)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774187200/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774187432/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774186646/Remove mounting bolts for condenser and pull forward (if you have one)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774187200/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774187432/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-29-2011 at 10:29 PM.
#8
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774187882/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774188200/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774188662/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774189052/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773651257/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773651583/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774190048/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774190386/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773652697/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773652901/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-29-2011 at 09:35 PM.
#9
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773653175/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774191552/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774195416/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774191986/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773654469/
Radiator and fan pack will go in as one unit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774192836/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773655605/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774194288/
Fill and burp the system as referenced in the FSM. Start the car and bring it up to operating temps and check for any leaks.
Not related to Mizu
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773656415/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773656735/
I have before data and I will get some logged data tomorrow or Tuesday in near 100F driving conditions. All in all it was a easy install and the only gripes I have are the location of the drain plug and the fact that two wire weather safe connectors are not included with the fan shroud kit. The hole in my aluminum under tray is significantly larger than the hole in the stock tray. This will make it a bit messy if you plan to drain the fluid with the tray on. My tray is easily unbolted from the uprights but those with the stock tray may have a difficult time.
It's not really important but it should be noted that the Mizu fans are quiet in comparison to the stock fans.
Radiator and fan pack will go in as one unit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774192836/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773655605/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5774194288/
Fill and burp the system as referenced in the FSM. Start the car and bring it up to operating temps and check for any leaks.
Not related to Mizu
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773656415/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5773656735/
I have before data and I will get some logged data tomorrow or Tuesday in near 100F driving conditions. All in all it was a easy install and the only gripes I have are the location of the drain plug and the fact that two wire weather safe connectors are not included with the fan shroud kit. The hole in my aluminum under tray is significantly larger than the hole in the stock tray. This will make it a bit messy if you plan to drain the fluid with the tray on. My tray is easily unbolted from the uprights but those with the stock tray may have a difficult time.
It's not really important but it should be noted that the Mizu fans are quiet in comparison to the stock fans.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-29-2011 at 09:53 PM.
#12
Yeah, post the "test" results whenever you are ready.
It was about 90f degrees today, maybe 70-80% humility ? I have RB flash so my car's radiator's temp was around 82-95 Celsius(do the math on ur own! :lol) Temp goes up pretty fast when going uphill. drops really fast when down (duh) but it stayed around 85 Celsius the whole time. Coolant should be about 45/55 (EG/Water) and my Radiator is Knight Sports Rad made by Koyo. as far as I remember its 53mm (almost twice the size as stock)
It was about 90f degrees today, maybe 70-80% humility ? I have RB flash so my car's radiator's temp was around 82-95 Celsius(do the math on ur own! :lol) Temp goes up pretty fast when going uphill. drops really fast when down (duh) but it stayed around 85 Celsius the whole time. Coolant should be about 45/55 (EG/Water) and my Radiator is Knight Sports Rad made by Koyo. as far as I remember its 53mm (almost twice the size as stock)
#13
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Yeah, my "tests" are just taking logs in similar weather conditions with thee car up to normal operating temps and then driving the same course. I also have Hoss-05's stock RX8 to compare too and in this type of weather in normal driving to the auto parts store, etc. His runs about 190-200F when driving normally.
#16
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We shall see how well it all works together, especially when the inter cooler comes into play. One other thing is that my condenser was filthy. I washed it out twice and there was still dirt and tiny pebbles coming out of it. A dirty condenser could affecting cooling the same way a dirty radiator can affect cooling on off road vehicles.
#17
Remember the job of controlling operating temperature is not what the radiator does. The thermostat does that. The thing of interest is looking at how effective the radiator is at cooling down the engine once it exceeds normal operating temps.
#18
Hmm I'd have to disagree, the tstat is either open or closed, I consider it the supervisor and the radiator/fan/waterpump the workers.
Once the tstat opens it doesn't do much else except close again, the radiator is what will keep it at 180 or 190 or 210 tstat has no control over that.
So if the radiator/fan/waterpump setup is more efficient it can keep it at an optimum temperature once the tstat opens.
As always I am open for learning and I could be wrong.
Once the tstat opens it doesn't do much else except close again, the radiator is what will keep it at 180 or 190 or 210 tstat has no control over that.
So if the radiator/fan/waterpump setup is more efficient it can keep it at an optimum temperature once the tstat opens.
As always I am open for learning and I could be wrong.
#19
Hmm I'd have to disagree, the tstat is either open or closed, I consider it the supervisor and the radiator/fan/waterpump the workers.
Once the tstat opens it doesn't do much else except close again, the radiator is what will keep it at 180 or 190 or 210 tstat has no control over that.
So if the radiator/fan/waterpump setup is more efficient it can keep it at an optimum temperature once the tstat opens.
As always I am open for learning and I could be wrong.
Once the tstat opens it doesn't do much else except close again, the radiator is what will keep it at 180 or 190 or 210 tstat has no control over that.
So if the radiator/fan/waterpump setup is more efficient it can keep it at an optimum temperature once the tstat opens.
As always I am open for learning and I could be wrong.
I'm interested in the results of this because I just put in the Mizu rad in my car when the radiator had a bit of a wardrobe malfunction; but i'm still on the stock fans/shroud
#20
Hmm I'd have to disagree, the tstat is either open or closed, I consider it the supervisor and the radiator/fan/waterpump the workers.
Once the tstat opens it doesn't do much else except close again, the radiator is what will keep it at 180 or 190 or 210 tstat has no control over that.
So if the radiator/fan/waterpump setup is more efficient it can keep it at an optimum temperature once the tstat opens.
As always I am open for learning and I could be wrong.
Once the tstat opens it doesn't do much else except close again, the radiator is what will keep it at 180 or 190 or 210 tstat has no control over that.
So if the radiator/fan/waterpump setup is more efficient it can keep it at an optimum temperature once the tstat opens.
As always I am open for learning and I could be wrong.
What controls the temperature of your house or apartment? Is it the heating/cooling system or the thermostat?
#21
Hey.........you got nice legs!
On a more serious note, rad looks really shiny.
I like the shot of the coolant out of the engine drain!
Did you have some major rad leak? In other words, is that old nasty coolant all over those old fan blades? I do seem to remember you had a crack at the top radiator hose mounting point right?
On a more serious note, rad looks really shiny.
I like the shot of the coolant out of the engine drain!
Did you have some major rad leak? In other words, is that old nasty coolant all over those old fan blades? I do seem to remember you had a crack at the top radiator hose mounting point right?
Last edited by Mazurfer; 05-30-2011 at 09:02 PM.
#22
If the rad is to small or has blocked airflow it wont be doing much cooling and the tstat will continue to stay open.
Similar to a house if your coils are dirty and caked with dust you will see higher temps coming out of your supply and it wont be cooling down the space. The tstat will call and call all day long and will not stop calling until its set point has been met.
So yes the tstat does control the "operating" temperature, but once its open there's nothing more it can do.
#23
Hey.........you got nice legs!
On a more serious note, rad looks really shiny.
I like the shot of the coolant out of the engine drain!
Did you have some major rad leak? In other words, is that old nasty coolant all over those old fan blades? I do seem to remember you had a crack at the top radiator hose mounting point right?
On a more serious note, rad looks really shiny.
I like the shot of the coolant out of the engine drain!
Did you have some major rad leak? In other words, is that old nasty coolant all over those old fan blades? I do seem to remember you had a crack at the top radiator hose mounting point right?
(I had no problem when I had Koyo rad tho, still have it in my garage collecting dust )
#24
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Hey.........you got nice legs!
On a more serious note, rad looks really shiny.
I like the shot of the coolant out of the engine drain!
Did you have some major rad leak? In other words, is that old nasty coolant all over those old fan blades? I do seem to remember you had a crack at the top radiator hose mounting point right?
On a more serious note, rad looks really shiny.
I like the shot of the coolant out of the engine drain!
Did you have some major rad leak? In other words, is that old nasty coolant all over those old fan blades? I do seem to remember you had a crack at the top radiator hose mounting point right?
No actually the old dried up coolant is from when my water pump belt busted at redline on a 90F day running through the canyons. This resulted in a crack at the little nipple that goes from the radiator to the reservoir. I replaced it with a Koyo and for the most part it worked fine but it always ran a little hotter than it did with the stock radiator until I sealed it up real good and then it worked fine. I just did this because I was already considering a fan shroud kit and I was given an opportunity to do so through www.sparkplugs.com so i did the rad and shroud kit.
My main point is this, once the tstat opens its up to the rad/fan to cool down the temps. That thing will stay open until it hits its closing temperature again.
If the rad is to small or has blocked airflow it wont be doing much cooling and the tstat will continue to stay open.
Similar to a house if your coils are dirty and caked with dust you will see higher temps coming out of your supply and it wont be cooling down the space. The tstat will call and call all day long and will not stop calling until its set point has been met.
So yes the tstat does control the "operating" temperature, but once its open there's nothing more it can do.
If the rad is to small or has blocked airflow it wont be doing much cooling and the tstat will continue to stay open.
Similar to a house if your coils are dirty and caked with dust you will see higher temps coming out of your supply and it wont be cooling down the space. The tstat will call and call all day long and will not stop calling until its set point has been met.
So yes the tstat does control the "operating" temperature, but once its open there's nothing more it can do.
Also, I really think the system as a whole is more important than anything else. Having a great radiator doesn't mean much if all of the other cooling system components are not in order. I will get some data tomorrow and then I plan on working on getting some duct worked ideas worked up for when the turbo kit goes on.
#25
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Okay guys, I have some longer logs, from before the install but it is way too much data to post so here is a quick snapshot. Basically this is with an ambient outside temp of 99F at cruise on the highway. My oil temps were a consistent 203-205F (they tend to run inline with coolant temps at cruise).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5782219287/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5782219287/