I'm throwing a code P2259 which is "P2260 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high ON 2 CCM"

I plan on troubleshooting the AIR valve, problem is I can't find the thing!

Could someone point me in the right direction? Where on the motor is this sucker located?


'04 Auto

 

should be the top solenoid on the back of the upper intake manifold, blue plug IIRC.

most likely you have a broken wire at the connector or a bad valve.

sorry to be brief, nhl playoffs.

kevin.

 

Its the top solenoid behind the upper intake manifold:

 

want a location picture, i have a good one, see attachment.

anywho, sitting a year is just as bad for wiring as it is for "stickiness", the rx8 harness in regular service is brittle and fails at the connector for the solenoid due to a somewhat unneccessary 90 degree hard bend of the wiring behind the manifold. the bend is so tight it pulls at where the wires join the connecter and is crimped. Since the AIR solenoid is on top its wiring is the hardest pulled, with the top being the 12V signal and having the most pulling being exerted on it. Due to the crimping, gauge of wiring, and slow aging corrosion internally the wire becomes brittle and slowly builds resistance or breaks completely. resistance and broken circuit are the most likely causes of this code.

it could be a faulty valve, i've seen it, but like 7 times out of 10 its the harness.

just putting that out there for you and future searchers of this code. Also as a note you stated you have a P2259, but pasted the P2260, in your original post, which one do you actually have?

kevin.

edit: LMFAO jon316g, our pics go together perfectly, what a team.

 

Yeah... but mine has COLOR

 

lmao, everything in my picture is black, except the white black and blue connectors so it'd be hard to see anything in color :P

kevin.

 

haha thanks guys!

 

p2259

 

easiest written description is:

see that hose in the middle of the top of the upper intake manifold (goes to the brake booster)

That is where the solenoids are located, except *under* the backside of the manifold, they're basically against the firewall just under the rear edge of the manifold.

hard to see and you need some lanky/thin arms to be able to reach the connector.

Easiest(as far as preventing yourself from getting all cutup) way to get to them would be disconnect the intake hose at the TB, unbolt the tb and lay it down, no need to disconnect coolant lines, just carefully flop it over. Then unbolt just the very top part of the intake manifold, 5 10mm head bolts to left of oil filler cap (3 on one flange, 2 on another) try not to drop either of the rear bolts tho. If you do i believe the thread dimensions are 6x1.0.

kevin.

 

I happen to have a pic with the AIR solenoid visible.
This was taken after I removed my intake manifold extension.
Its the unit with the blue wire harness.

 

With all that dirt in there, I'm wonder if it failed beacuse of that.

 

Actually... that's not a bad thing to consider.
Might be worth it to simply remove the harness and spray the contacts with contact cleaner (maybe even use a Q-tip to wipe off any dirt film).
Then reconnect the harness and try it out.

 

Ahhh, I have to pull the intake to get to it! No wonder I couldn't find the sucker!

Haha thanks guys! I'll pull it off/wipe it down manana, see if I can't get this thing happy again.

 

I heard that some people have been able to reach around, but I tried it once and didn't have any luck.
They were probably skinnier

 

the ol' reach-around you say? lmao, j/k.

I seem to be the perfect fit when positioned right (damn can't talk about this subject without it being able to be read so wrong). It's a bitch tho, most of the time not worth the effort since the manifold comes apart so easily. Only time i do it is to check if the wire is seperated or the insulation corroded real quick. Sorry for not mentioning the removal of the intake before, slipped my mind.

nice pic of the solenoid btw.

kevin.

 

I finally got this sucker pulled out.
Harness looks to be in decent shape, no dirt/corrosion inside the connector, etc.
I'll test it in a bit

 

that rear manifold bolt is a ^&*(&


solenoid tested bad according to the ALLDATA screenshot above...
calling the dealership in the morning to locate one of these parts

 

You can purchase the solenoid at OnlineMazdaParts.com for $64.74.
The part number is KL01-18-741

 

I went ahead and picked one up at the dealer yesterday, cost $115 after tax

On the up side, though, I got it installed and everything back together - car is running great. I'll put some miles on it today to get it back to ready state. Hopefully this code wont come back.

Thanks team!

 

Ouch on the price... but at least you got it working now.

 

i got this code yesterday as well as p0302. i will try the solonoid test sometime this week. my p2259 said "secondary air injection system control B circuit low" from what i read others say there code says high not low. is there a difference between the 2 or will it still be to test the solonoid? oh and im at 79xxx not even 80k yet

 

when you take off the intake is there a intake gasket? if so did you re-use or replace? called some of my auto part distributors but they didnt have it. is it dealer only or do our cars not have one or do they have a re-useable one?

 

J_Owens- There are orange gaskets on the UIM that are re-usable.
I've reused mine countless times and still measure good vacuum in the intake.
No worries!

 

Even if you know the code is P2259 (AZ or ADV) it doesn't tell you if it's a short, a dirty valve or a bad solenoid valve AND it's a dealer only part.

So you have to pay the dealer $113 to receive the code you all ready know P2259 which is not charged if you need an actual fix.

Part #KL01-18-741 Solenoid Valve $144.83 (+ tax)

Labor to evaluate 3 conditions (3 hours) causing this code and disassemblle intake $329.85 "Replace Secondary Air Valve"

Okay they are into you now for $474.68 plus some tax.

Sounds terrible right?!

So since you paid to open up the intake it's only $140 more for a complete ZFIS Fuel Induction Service.

So for $614 + some tax you are out the door with a car wash and your car runs alot better for another 60,000 miles.

Alot of people on this board will laugh at spending that much for what "to them" is a "piece of cake". I'll do most mechanical work as FL cars don't have the rust we used to fight up North but I don't like electrical/computer repairs or bending my body into weird shapes. I'm too old to not just enjoy my ride.

Anyhow there you have it. Current prices from a FL dealer as of today. BUT the car runs awesome closer to scary fast than just plain fast!!!

 

I am having this same code in my RX-8 and I wanted to ask if there is some sort of symptom associated with this fault code or is this just a Check engine light warning issue? Does the car has to run rough or hesitate at all with this code present? anybody please.....