That'll be nice contribution to the DIY section.
I planned on doing one for the pilot and release bearing too next time I drop my transmission.
Hope you have the right tool for the pilot bearing... it can be a little tough getting that bugger out at times.

 

Definitely.... I ordered the tool from Mazdatrix.com I'm just waiting for it in the mail lol. They charged something like 90+ shipping. Good price? Or should I say worth it?

 

You can actually get a blind-hole bearing puller kit for less, but MazdaTrix is sending you exactly what you need.
I did buy their pilot bearing installation tool and it made installing that and the seal easy.

 

Ouch!

 

ok i just got the P2259 code this morning im going to clean the connectors once the engine cools down and i can get my hand back there...

am i right in thinking my aem intake has nothing to do with this code? im supposed to go on vacation friday and im driving my 8 and id like to get this fixed before then. as of now the engine still runs fine is there any symptoms i should have besides just the CEL?

 

Is the vdI solinoid valve the most common malfunction to illuminate the engine warning light or can the o2 sensors on the catylitic converter or on the exhaust manifold cause this. Does anyone Know where to get a engine managment coputer disc and wire harness for my laptop

 

Did this DIY ever get put together? I'm getting the P2259 code and am going to try check the electrical connection tonight, but I'm not sure I can get my hands in there without pulling the UIM. I need to get this fixed to go through emissions. The CEL comes and goes so I am hoping it is just a loose wire.

EDIT: I could not fit my hands back there, so I had my wife reach in and wiggle the wires and the plug, hopefully that will fix the problem long enough to get the emissions check. If not, I will pull the upper manifold. If the wires are damaged will it be obvious?

Thanks

 

I have an rx8 coming over in the next few weekends, but has same code, i said id check it out, before it gets brought to the dealer. But this doesn't sound to challenging to do. they have had coils, wire,plugs, new mounts, and car still runs like crap, 98k miles on it. Engine lights flashes on and off at times. A while ago they had the code read and it was P2559 code.

I will give more info after i get in there.

 

I know this thread is old but.
I was able to reach around and unplug each of the three solenoids.
I sprayed them well with electrical contact cleaner let them dry and filled the connector(the female one) with Di electrical grease.(Ive used simalar greases for years as an Industrial electrician,it works but it is conducive so make sure your battery is unplugged)
I havent had the code come back and infact cleaned and sealed every conection I could,in the engine bay.
My engine is running better than ever as of now.
If you use the electrical grease be careful not to bridge it between terminals.

 

^ Good advice on using Di grease.

 

I have this code as well..(for a long time actually. The code comes and goes.) Can this secondary air injection solenoid valve actually affects the engine performance? I thought the secondary air injection is only for emission purpose, so I have been putting off on fixing it.

 

^.................not an expert by any means, but as I understand it.......it's like you said, only for emissions and only runs at start up for 10-15 seconds.

 

Instead of starting another DIY thread, I'll just post and add on to this of how I removed the UIM to replace the solenoid that's causing my car to have the P0661 and P2259 trouble code. Just like what NYC_DRIFT_KING did to his engine bay, I lightly rinsed my engine bay and triggered that P2259 CEL. That was almost a year and a half ago. Now my car is due for a smog and I've contemplated too long and I really need to get rid of this CEL.

It was past midnight when I did this and if somehow my instructions confused you, I apologize because I am more of a visual person than verbal, hence the pictures and brief instructions/comments for this DIY.

Tools of the Trade:
-Flat head
-Small Pry Bar, as I call it
-Small 10mm 16 point wrench, need it for the tight spots
-10mm(short and extended) and 12mm 3/8 drive sockets
-3" and 6" 3/8 drive extensions, and a 3/8 drive wrench
-Flashlight
-Couple of rags


Use the 12 mm socket-wrench to remove the strut tower bar and the 10 mm to loosen the clamps for the air intake to remove the accordion tube:


Unplug the vacuum hose for the VDI:


Loosen the bracket for the A/C line, which will keep your hands free of cuts while you attempt to remove the UIM bolts:


Unplug the electrical connection on the throttle body and the one next to the oil filler neck, loosen and remove the four bolts that holds the throttle body:


Swing the throttle body over then unplug the hoses with the blue clip just to the left where the throttle body was:


Then the short vacuum hose at the rear:


This is the alternative I discovered which will make it easier, with less parts, to remove the UIM. It will be tricky because you will need to be nimble and must be able to get your hands and fingers at an awkward position. Now, to start, there is a bracket on the driver side, just below the UIM that you will need to reach under using the small 10mm wrench to loosen the two hidden bolts. This process probably took longer to remove than the two hidden bolts that's behind the UIM near the firewall.

Feel for the rear bolt(hardest to remove of the two) and attach the wrench, this is where the 16 point comes into play because it's a really tight spot; secure and turn the wrench righty to loosen that bolt:


Locate the second bolt up front:


Crack those bolts loose and use the long 10mm socket with the 3" extension to easily remove them:


Here is the close up view of the bracket you need to remove:


Next, the five UIM bolts, three have been loosened as seen in the pictures, the two hidden bolts are between the firewall and the UIM:


I used the small 10 mm socket and a 3" extension with a wrench to remove the most accessible hidden bolt:


Use the small 10 mm wrench to loosen the first difficult hidden bolt, then use the long socket with an extension to completely remove it:




Those are all the parts needed to free up the UIM and you should be able to use one hand to lift it up:




Here's a better view where you can locate those two bolts and bracket under the manifold. The reason why those two bolts have to be removed, besides the five bolts on top, is because that's the other section of the UIM that secures it/mounted to the LIM:




With the solenoid replaced, re-install in reverse order, do not forget to double-check and plug all the vacuum tubes!!!

Two ways to clear the CEL: you can drive the car a few times(at least 50 - 100 miles) and the CEL will clear itself; otherwise, unplug the positive connection from the battery terminal and press the brake pedal to drain the power in the car. This allows you to do the KAM-reset (Keep Alive Memory). It will completely clear the memory which will reset the fuel trims and other monitors; by doing so, the car have to be driven for at least 50 or more miles, all monitors have to be ON before you take it to for a smog(in CA, if one or more are still off, the referee will fail the car of SMOG). Use an OBD-II reader to find out if your CEL cleared and at least 8 of the monitors are ready. Sometimes the ECU will not present a lit CEL on your dashboard but the code is still stored in the ECU. You may pass the SMOG with a pending code, but a stored trouble code will automatically cause you to fail the test. At least in California.

 

I was able to change today that solenoid in the top without removing anything but engine covers, engine light wont anymore come on! Outside job in -10 degrees, in Fin.

With: Mirror, long screwdriver, 30cm of tig wire..

 

You must have little, tiny, girly hands? I could have done what you did; but I disassembled mine, installed the solenoid, and reassembled it all my way rather than removing the whole Intake Manifold. I've put it off for almost a year and in actuality, the whole brainstorming and DIY only took me an hour.

 

My failed emissions test today shows a P2259 and P0420 on the report. What a bad time for a CEL! My car is running completely fine though. Taking it in tomorrow. Hopefully it's just the solenoid. No way in hell I'm shelling out over 1k for a new CAT.

 

P2259 is the solenoid for sure. As for the low catalyst threshold(P0420), you will need to look at the honey comb in the CAT-Converter. There are two chambers, sometimes the stuffing before the O2 gets clogged; a few members pounded out just the first set of honey comb in front of the O2 sensor and left the last half behind the sensor intact, also mentioned that they didn't get a CEL. Not sure how it will fare during emissions testing.

For someone to trip a CEL for the CAT, lets only hope it is a failing rear O2 sensor, yours must be really clogged which begs to question: how is your engine running? Is it a new CAT or still the factory one when you had your second engine(how many miles on the engine)?

 

Even with my clumsy metal man's hand managed to replace the solenoid without removing the manifold. Know-how and resources.

 

Yeah, my main concern was the clip. I didn't want to risk breaking it.

 

i will be disconnecting and cleaning the solenoid and terminals later today. hopefully this will make the P2259 code go away.

 

I don't know how else you could clean those. I only tried spraying the electrical connections with a cleaner and had no luck, so I ended up just replacing the solenoid instead.

 

I just got done replacing my middle solenoid (white) and clearing a p0661 code. had to remove the blue one on the top to get to it. Now I'm getting the p2259 code. the dealer said to check out the secondary air pump. the trace starts with a 60amp fuse to a relay(B1-03) in back of the passenger headlamp and then to the pump(B1-04). so far I checked the pump and it works. was thinking it might be the relay but after reading this I'm thinking I have to go back in behind the IMH again.
wondering if I should just get two solenoids and replace the bottom one as well, while I have it all apart again.

 

I would just replace that specific solenoid. One person above posted that he just reached behind to remove the solenoid. You could probably do it for the top one without comepletely removing the UIM.

 

you can also do it without removing the throttle body coolant lines, by pulling the UIM forward and out of the way while you access the solenoids.

i just get a little paranoid of cooling system air pockets with these cars on older engines. also saves a little time draining and topping off the system.

 

Im a proud new owner of a 04 AT rx8...I got a 2259 code, at first there were no differences in engine performance..Now sometimes the engine goes in limp mode, sometimes it doesnt and runs fine.. Is this still just a harness or solenoid issue? Or is there something else i should be worried about ...going to try to clean the connectors.