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Adaptronic Select Rx-8 Standalone ECU

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Old 04-11-2012 | 03:11 PM
  #51  
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I read that too... it clears the CEL(s) on boot up if they are stored. This might present an issue for PA emissions as PA validates the DriveCyclesSinceLastCel(spl?) register.

This could also be the one thing that "drives" me to keep my AP with the base Cobb map loaded, assuming it doesn't interfere with the Adaptronic.

Otherwise it looks like I'll be running with my stock mid pipe 1 month out of each year.
Old 04-11-2012 | 04:49 PM
  #52  
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Damn. I was thinking it wouldnt pass PA for that reason. Then I read this post and got excited. I figured NY would have similiar OBD scan test for emissions.

Originally Posted by Turblown
For those wondering about how well the units work; I sent one of these boxes out to replace a Haltech on a greddy turbo Rx-8 a few weeks ago to a NY shop. Problem with the haltech was a slight random miss, which would throw an error code, and the car wouldn't pass inspection. The car has since been tuned with the adaptronic, shop owner is very happy. Car runs and drives like OEM, and no check engine lights. I also have 5 more in the field out of the country with happy owners too.

I have a Pettit s/c so I cant go back to a stock tune for the yearly test. I need the extra fuel for the motor. Its just running really rich for safety. 12/17 MPG is hurting with the gas prices going up.
Old 04-11-2012 | 05:14 PM
  #53  
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Keeping the AP would likely be a good idea for emissions. I recently passed our emissions here that are quite strict with the stock CAT and the AP to block the CEL's

I will not pass without the readiness monitors being set...so you need to be able to set those...and they all entail more than one drive cycle to complete...as well as a specific set of circumstances to set. It isn't mileage derived either...you can drive for days or weeks and not set the monitors under incorrect circumstances
Old 04-13-2012 | 01:17 AM
  #54  
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Nitrous Answer;

There are two ways to do it. Both require setting up a digital input. Digital inputs 7 and 8 both appear on a header inside the ECU. Let's use digital input 7. That means that we need to open the ECU, connect a wire to that header and run the wire out through the hole in the endplate next to the loom connector. This wire goes to a switch, and the other wire goes to GND. It could go to the nitrous relay so it happens automatically - in that case we need need a way to switch it on - more on that later.

1) Overall enrich/retard function:

Set up the digital input (7 or 8) as type "Enrich / Retard". Under "Special functions", there is a setting for the percentage enrichment and degrees of ignition retard when the switch is active

2) 2nd map function:

Set up the digital input (7 or 8) as type "Alternate map select". Under "Tuning Modes", instead of selecting "1 = MAP, 2 = unused", select "1 = MAP, 2 = MAP, digital input to select #2). Then the ECU will look at fuel and ignition map 1 when the switch is off, and fuel and ignition map 2 when the switch is on.


If you want to have a separate arming function for the nitrous, eg only above 3000 RPM and above 80% throttle, you can select:

1) Select a logic only aux output that's currently unused - eg Green LED (which is #15) - and set that as TPS, 75/80, and Orange LED (which is #16) - and set that as RPM 2800 / 3000 - then set an unused aux output (eg aux output 5 comes out on the header) as AND with the output channels being 15 and 16. That means that aux output 5 will come on when TPS is > 80% and RPM > 3000 RPM.

2) Connect this output to one side of the nitrous switch
3) Connect the other side of the nitrous switch to the negative of a relay coil
4) Connect the positive side of the relay coil to +12V ignition power
5) The contacts of the relay then switch power to your nitrous solenoid
6) Connect the negative side of the relay coil (which already connects to the switch) to the digital input on the ECU.

This means that the digital input will be pulled to ground only when the output from the ECU is on (TPS > 80% and RPM > 3000), AND the nitrous switch is enabled.
Old 04-13-2012 | 08:47 AM
  #55  
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YES!!!!

So we can do this, will need extra parts and the ability to solder the ECU. I wonder if I can get a replacement OEM ECU to replace the modded one if needed. Even if this costs 2gs in parts it is still 4-6gs cheaper than going turbo. With this we can break that 75 shot wall if we don't have to permanently retard the timing.

Great news brother! I am officially stoked. We are going to start with a basic 50hp shot kit and keep that going while the ECU gets its work on. Very exciting times!

Nitrous is the cheaper option and getting it to be reliable without blowing **** up is BIG! We got our work cut out for us at WW, but it'll be worth it.

Thanks again for getting that info for us Turblown. Now to see some Nitrous projects on previous rotaries. I think an RX-7 at WW had a 125hp shot installed at one point, much to be learned.
Old 04-13-2012 | 09:41 AM
  #56  
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Elliot, you are the man!
Old 04-16-2012 | 01:28 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Turblown
The Adaptronic allows you to control the OMP output. The OMP must remain electronically plugged with this ECU, unless you want to change to a cable driven throttle body and put up with a check engine light on.

The Adaptronic allows controls of the fans if you wire them into one of the PWM outputs( there are enough to control each fan individually). By default you cannot change the fan settings( plug and play harness).

You must open the aux ports before the secondaries stage. You have complete control over when the aux ports open close.

This previous post is wrong. The OMP controls only work for S5/S6 Rx-7s. I am currently working on getting a program written for the Rx-8.

I am also getting some other specific Rx-8 functions implemented, that will help with fine tuning...
Old 04-16-2012 | 02:42 PM
  #58  
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The Adaptronic itself is USB flash upgradable? How do underlying firmware updates get rolled out?

Also want to confirm it can co-exist with an AP on the Mazda ECU. If so then one would still have control of the OMP tables, correct?
Old 04-17-2012 | 09:27 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
The Adaptronic itself is USB flash upgradable? How do underlying firmware updates get rolled out?

Also want to confirm it can co-exist with an AP on the Mazda ECU. If so then one would still have control of the OMP tables, correct?
Anything that reflashes the factory ECU will not affect what the adaptronic is doing. The only communication that the adaptronic has with with the factory ECU is that it periodically eliminate the fault codes that will appear because the factory ECU realises that it's not controlling the engine, so any other factory ECU functions (whether or not they are modified by a separate reflashing tool) will be unaffected, including OMP, thermofans, cruise control and so on.

The only thing that may be required is that you disable the fault clearing option in the Adaptronic while you're reflashing the factory ECU but that's about it.

I am still waiting on several ECUS to arrive to ship for anyone wondering. Some of got their units, several are still waiting. I have 3 extra being put into our inventory also..

On the 1st I am hitting the dyno with a adaptronic powered top mount car..
Old 04-17-2012 | 10:23 PM
  #60  
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Was wondering.. Thanks for the update
Old 04-18-2012 | 01:23 PM
  #61  
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Mine came in today!!!!
Old 04-18-2012 | 09:38 PM
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^who is going to tune your car?
Old 04-19-2012 | 03:50 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
I will not pass without the readiness monitors being set...so you need to be able to set those...and they all entail more than one drive cycle to complete...as well as a specific set of circumstances to set. It isn't mileage derived either...you can drive for days or weeks and not set the monitors under incorrect circumstances
in my experience there's usually only one or two that might lag regardless of how it is driven, and here in the US we are allowed to have that many not set
Old 04-19-2012 | 07:01 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by pdxhak
^who is going to tune your car?
Between Elliot & Chip from Chips motorsports here in MI, I should be set.
Old 04-22-2012 | 05:15 PM
  #65  
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Any update for us, Elliot?
Old 04-23-2012 | 09:44 AM
  #66  
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Shell,

Check your PMs.

I am now being told in the 3 week range to get any more ECUs in. I will ship the same day they arrive. I have put 3 extra units on order to put on our shelves to avoid future delays..
Old 04-23-2012 | 11:36 AM
  #67  
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Sounds good... I think we can make that timeline work!
Old 04-26-2012 | 05:05 PM
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My 8 is now in the hands of Chips Motorsports!!! Lets see what happens!
Old 04-26-2012 | 05:45 PM
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^Good luck!
Old 04-27-2012 | 10:04 PM
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It hit 15 psi really quickly, we are changing the wastegate spring to under 10 psi for more reliability! I should have it back on Monday!!!
Old 04-28-2012 | 07:40 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by faith&firepower





It hit 15 psi really quickly, we are changing the wastegate spring to under 10 psi for more reliability! I should have it back on Monday!!!
Looking Good Erick ...

For those that are an the fence about this ecu, i can safely say that its a great product, very user friendly, Nice and responsive to tuning etc.. All in all great buy for a great price.

Yea Erik, after some racing today. I will get back in the shop change your spring out so that we are not hitting 15psi and running out of fuel and stuff.

Thanks
Chip U
Old 05-01-2012 | 07:09 PM
  #72  
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I got a very cool looking box in the mail today.... just need to get my wideband back from auto meter and its off to the shop!
Old 05-04-2012 | 09:48 AM
  #73  
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^ Hell Yeah! Im hoping to get the 8 back today or tomorrow!!!
Old 05-04-2012 | 10:51 AM
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Nice! Been a long time coming for you to get your ride to where it is now.
Old 05-05-2012 | 09:32 AM
  #75  
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Anyone else having issues about 6-7k range with fuel cutting out?


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