SoCal Lounge
12-24-2009, 11:59 AM
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12-24-2009, 12:07 PM
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Thanks Jedi.
It's interesting that the e-shaft position sensor is noted in the diagnostic steps...and I have heard resetting that can't cause any problems and certainly can help some...
Searching for how to reset that...
It's interesting that the e-shaft position sensor is noted in the diagnostic steps...and I have heard resetting that can't cause any problems and certainly can help some...
Searching for how to reset that...
12-24-2009, 12:14 PM
RX8 & RX7 owner
I love hearing the differences between a supercharged 8, a 3 rotor , and a 4 rotor,if you cant tell the difference in sound... you dont know NADA.. lemme break it down.
2 rotor supercharged .... sounds like a COBRA with pulleys
3 rotor turbo......... sounds like a beasty ported rotary with a BOV.. has a "clunk clunk" in the idle
4 rotor......... sounds straight up like an F1 car no question about it
2 rotor supercharged .... sounds like a COBRA with pulleys
3 rotor turbo......... sounds like a beasty ported rotary with a BOV.. has a "clunk clunk" in the idle
4 rotor......... sounds straight up like an F1 car no question about it
12-24-2009, 12:16 PM
Zumn, Its homemade what do you expect? The Guy even said it himself. All this Jack off did was smash two 13b's together. Why do you think it took him 5 Years to build it? If you ask me its a lame set up. Why you ask? Cuz look at all the added weight. That way you call the ghetto 26b
12-24-2009, 12:21 PM
RX8 & RX7 owner
if it runs and pulls like a 4 rotor..... im sure this way is the "cheaper" but not "correct" way to go. I'd do it two 13b engines < $$ 4rotor.... and a 5 year build... thats nothing.
two 13b engines < $$ 4rotor.... and a 5 year build... thats nothing.
LOL
12-24-2009, 12:32 PM
If you're getting that "wall" feeling at the upper RPMs, you might want to reset your e-shaft sensor. Here's how you do it.
1. Turn the key to the "on" position, but do not turn over the engine.
2. As soon as step 1 is finished, stomp rapidly on the brake pedal about 20 times.
3. You notice that the oil pressure gauge does a half sweep and returns when you do this correctly.
4. Once the oil pressure gauge needle sweeps back to its original position, turn the key to the "off" position and then back to the "on" position - this time start the car.
Warm up the car and make sure you wait about 10 minutes AFTER the water temp needle reaches the 11 o'clock position.........then romp on it!
1. Turn the key to the "on" position, but do not turn over the engine.
2. As soon as step 1 is finished, stomp rapidly on the brake pedal about 20 times.
3. You notice that the oil pressure gauge does a half sweep and returns when you do this correctly.
4. Once the oil pressure gauge needle sweeps back to its original position, turn the key to the "off" position and then back to the "on" position - this time start the car.
Warm up the car and make sure you wait about 10 minutes AFTER the water temp needle reaches the 11 o'clock position.........then romp on it!
12-24-2009, 12:32 PM
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iTrader: (7)
12-24-2009, 12:33 PM
it would be a fare fight.
12-24-2009, 12:35 PM
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iTrader: (7)
Easy to the rescue with the reset procedure.
12-24-2009, 12:36 PM
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Zumn: bring the gloves, J03 and I are gonna spar at the next meet. 
12-24-2009, 12:41 PM
RX8 & RX7 owner
NATURAL BORN KILLER 
DAVID and GOLIATH?
12-24-2009, 12:44 PM
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c'mon j03, the good news is when I land a head kick, you'll neither see it nor feel it but you shall unfortunately awaken to a pretty brutal headache.
If we box, I'll just jab you to death with my reach.
I call this a Win-Win situation.
This reminds me of a time we threw a bbq at Rotary Rasp's house and it turned into a BOXING match in the back yard between random contestants.
RR broke out gloves and head gear, it was freaking epic. I'm pretty sure clips ended up on youtube
12-24-2009, 12:45 PM
Sparing does sound fun though. Its been a while for me. I use to train with my uncle Roger. I wanted to fight like him. my uncle Roger's hands are registered as lethal weapons. I always wanted to get my hands registered cuz of him.
12-24-2009, 12:54 PM
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So coil testing.
I set my digital multimeter to Ohms, and on the buzzer. The test guidelines dictate that
- between terminals A and B, there should not be 0 or infinity
- between terminals B and C, there should not be 0 or infinity
- between terminals A and C there should not be continuity, 0 to several kilohm.
Removed set, ~16,000 miles, I don't know which one was in which spot on the 8. I should have marked them.
Numbers are A to B, B to C, A to C
Coil #1: 804, 536, 608
Coil #2: 805, 540, 629
Coil #3: 770, 542, 620
Coil #4: 805, 544, 622
Installed set, brand new, 10 miles on them, numbered from front to rear in installation position:
Coil #1: 712, 477, 561
Coil #2: 768, 482, 577
Coil #3: 723, 490, 566
Coil #4: 713, 497, 572
And just for kicks, my original factory coils (which I still have), ~35,000 miles on them before getting a few misfires up high, no noticable power loss, replaced coils and misfires disappeared. Unknown order in the 8.
Coil #1: 800, 558, 645
Coil #2: 806, 557, 640
Coil #3: 814, 556, 647
Coil #4: 806, 555, 645
Remarkably identical in values across all 4, especially compared with the 2 other sets.
The brand new set has the absolute lowest values of any of the sets, and since it's Ohms, which is resistance if I am remembering correctly, then they have the lowest resistance, the original factory 35k set has the highest resistance, and the 16k set has slightly lower resistance than the 35k set.
Coil #2 on the brand new set has the highest resistance values of the 4 brand new ones, but still better than any of the other coils, so nothing better that I can swap it to.
Any opinions on faulty/not faulty? Re-arrange any of these coils?
My head still tells me it is ignition, even if my heart dreads compression.
Any way to test the plug wires without a timing light? Probably just go buy one before the store closes today though.
Edit:
Thanks easy, going to reset the e-shaft sensor now.
I set my digital multimeter to Ohms, and on the buzzer. The test guidelines dictate that
- between terminals A and B, there should not be 0 or infinity
- between terminals B and C, there should not be 0 or infinity
- between terminals A and C there should not be continuity, 0 to several kilohm.
Removed set, ~16,000 miles, I don't know which one was in which spot on the 8. I should have marked them.
Numbers are A to B, B to C, A to C
Coil #1: 804, 536, 608
Coil #2: 805, 540, 629
Coil #3: 770, 542, 620
Coil #4: 805, 544, 622
Installed set, brand new, 10 miles on them, numbered from front to rear in installation position:
Coil #1: 712, 477, 561
Coil #2: 768, 482, 577
Coil #3: 723, 490, 566
Coil #4: 713, 497, 572
And just for kicks, my original factory coils (which I still have), ~35,000 miles on them before getting a few misfires up high, no noticable power loss, replaced coils and misfires disappeared. Unknown order in the 8.
Coil #1: 800, 558, 645
Coil #2: 806, 557, 640
Coil #3: 814, 556, 647
Coil #4: 806, 555, 645
Remarkably identical in values across all 4, especially compared with the 2 other sets.
The brand new set has the absolute lowest values of any of the sets, and since it's Ohms, which is resistance if I am remembering correctly, then they have the lowest resistance, the original factory 35k set has the highest resistance, and the 16k set has slightly lower resistance than the 35k set.
Coil #2 on the brand new set has the highest resistance values of the 4 brand new ones, but still better than any of the other coils, so nothing better that I can swap it to.
Any opinions on faulty/not faulty? Re-arrange any of these coils?
My head still tells me it is ignition, even if my heart dreads compression.
Any way to test the plug wires without a timing light? Probably just go buy one before the store closes today though.
Edit:
Thanks easy, going to reset the e-shaft sensor now.
